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JR1987
06-22-2011, 07:54 AM
Have any of you guys used it? Got a recommendation from someone on this forum to try it, so I figured for about 8 bucks not a bad deal to try it. Can always start over if I don't like it.

If you have used it did you put in on your current finish? Did you refinish the stock and apply the mix over stain or BLO? Or did you use it alone as a finish?

I applied it over my stock CMP Special finish to add something more. Pictures can speak for themselves:

Before:

http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/ad21/Rindy09/000_0024.jpg

After:

http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/ad21/Rindy09/000_0031.jpg

I liked my stock finish to begin with, but I wanted to add more to it.

Pictures taken in the same room with same lighting in about the same position. Tried to minimize environment effects on the picture. It looks different (and better) and even feels more alive.

If you've used Toms post some before and after pics if you can. I'd like to see how it works using different methods (adding to the finish, or using as a finish itself).

86SVO351
06-22-2011, 08:03 AM
JR 1987: Toms is an excellent product, but it is very easy and cheaper to make your own. In some sort of a double boiler (for safety, as I made my mixture over a coleman stove) mix equal parts of beeswax, turp, and BLO or Tung oil;

Once all the beeswax is melted, pour into used plastic containers and let cool. I have had good luck with this. Bruce J.

supersport
06-22-2011, 08:56 AM
I used Tom's and was very happy with it. I put on 3 coats over about a week and my rifle had a really nice look. It is easy to use and left a real natural finish.

epm729
06-22-2011, 08:59 AM
JR 1987: Toms is an excellent product, but it is very easy and cheaper to make your own. In some sort of a double boiler (for safety, as I made my mixture over a coleman stove) mix equal parts of beeswax, turp, and BLO or Tung oil;

Once all the beeswax is melted, pour into used plastic containers and let cool. I have had good luck with this. Bruce J.

Are those measurements by volume or weight ? I want to try making a batch. Thanks, Eddie

H.S. Mantooth Jr.
06-22-2011, 09:17 AM
Are those measurements by volume or weight ? I want try making a batch. Thanks, Eddie

epm729;

When I made some years ago, I measured by volume. Turned out AOK.

By the way, if it's still there, you can go to Jouster's and read an article written by Maj. Culver, referring to what he called "Gunny's Paste". He made it, and used it while still in the Corps.

Incidentally, it used the same ingredients, the same measurement's as Tom's 1/3 mix.

Another side note, I looked everywhere I could think of to find the Bee's Wax. The wife suggested MICHAEL's Craft Store's. That's where I found it. Any craft store will have it, as people uses the Bee's Wax to make candles. I'm sure there are other places of business that carry it also.

HTH

epm729
06-22-2011, 09:33 AM
HTH, Thank you, I'll try it this weekend. I have a block of bee's wax , my father used it to make a home remedy . I must have been holding on to it for 30 years waiting to find a use for it . Eddie

AmmoMac
06-22-2011, 10:01 AM
For a less aromatic Gunny Paste you can substitute Odourless Mineral Spirits for the Turpentine. HTH.

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RuggedTerrain40
06-22-2011, 12:41 PM
I used a bunch of Tom's One Third Mix over the winter to redo my M1 Special stock. I liked it a lot, although what made my stock look the best was one thing...multiple coats of Real Milk Paint DARK Tung oil, diluted 3:1 with odorless mineral spirits. Finished with a final 1:1 DARK Tung oil coat. That made my stock look good, you dont even need stain with the dark Tung oil.

Beside the Real Milk Paint dark tung oil, the only stock treatment that impressed me at all was Tom's One Third Mix. I did not like BLO.

For pure appearance, I like multiple (a lot) coats of the 3:1 Real Milk Paint DARK tung oil. Maybe followed by several heavy coats of Tom's One Third mix.

For functionality and hardening the wood and getting a tight lockup and making the wood more resistant to cleaning solvents and grease, I like one or two saturation coatings of BW Casey Tru-Oil, followed by a LONG drying time. That makes the wood hard and weatherproofs it about as good as you can get.

Eric

dpd3672
06-22-2011, 02:38 PM
I love 1/3 mix. Not only does it look great, it gives the stock a different feel...somewhere between tacky and non-slip, if that makes any sense.

sunray
06-22-2011, 02:54 PM
"...looked everywhere I could think of..." You try a local apiary?

dpd3672
06-22-2011, 03:06 PM
"...looked everywhere I could think of..." You try a local apiary?

And just like that, my vocabulary grows by one word...thanks to sunray and Google/Dictionary.com.

H.S. Mantooth Jr.
06-22-2011, 04:26 PM
"...looked everywhere I could think of..." You try a local apiary?

Like I mentioned above, I bought some at Michaels Craft Stores.

jaw1947
06-22-2011, 05:40 PM
I like the look and tactile feel it leaves on the stock.

panther308
06-22-2011, 07:07 PM
I have conversed with Tom and he is a great guy that makes a great product !!!
I purchased my HRA M1's from the CMP and personally after a bit did not care for the pumpkin wood so I worked on them and finished them off with 3 coats of Tom's 1/3 mix

Before:

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy268/panther308/M1%20Garand/100_1596-1.jpg

After:

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy268/panther308/M1%20Garand/100_1626.jpg

This one turned out the Best IMHO

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy268/panther308/M1%20Garand/100_1639-1.jpg

86SVO351
06-23-2011, 07:06 AM
epm 729: I tried equal weights by volume on my first batch. After it cooled, I found it to have a little too much wax in it, so I melted it down again and added more turp and tung oil. When it cooled, it was a little more spreadable. Before using it, I put the container out in the sun to let it soften up a little, and it goes on the wood very easy. The outfit that I got my wax from had both tan and white beeswax, but he tan was cheaper, so I used that. I will look for the name of the place, but do a internet search and I am sure you will find it. Good luck with your mixture. Bruce J.

mcpo
06-23-2011, 09:20 AM
Have any of you guys used it? Got a recommendation from someone on this forum to try it, so I figured for about 8 bucks not a bad deal to try it. Can always start over if I don't like it.

If you have used it did you put in on your current finish? Did you refinish the stock and apply the mix over stain or BLO? Or did you use it alone as a finish?

I applied it over my stock CMP Special finish to add something more. Pictures can speak for themselves:

Before:

http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/ad21/Rindy09/000_0024.jpg

After:

http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/ad21/Rindy09/000_0031.jpg

I liked my stock finish to begin with, but I wanted to add more to it.

Pictures taken in the same room with same lighting in about the same position. Tried to minimize environment effects on the picture. It looks different (and better) and even feels more alive.

If you've used Toms post some before and after pics if you can. I'd like to see how it works using different methods (adding to the finish, or using as a finish itself).

Where does one find Toms 1/3 mix?

epm729
06-23-2011, 09:25 AM
I think if you type in "Tom's 1/3 Mix " on your explorer it should come up.

epm729
06-23-2011, 09:27 AM
epm 729: I tried equal weights by volume on my first batch. After it cooled, I found it to have a little too much wax in it, so I melted it down again and added more turp and tung oil. When it cooled, it was a little more spreadable. Before using it, I put the container out in the sun to let it soften up a little, and it goes on the wood very easy. The outfit that I got my wax from had both tan and white beeswax, but he tan was cheaper, so I used that. I will look for the name of the place, but do a internet search and I am sure you will find it. Good luck with your mixture. Bruce J.

Bruce, After you mixed, how long did you let it simmer before cooling. Also, when applying to the stock, do you let it stand for a while before rubbing it down? Eddie

JR1987
06-23-2011, 09:41 AM
Panther, those refinished stocks look amazing. I was impressed after my first coat, I could see more and feel it. Then with the second coat, it blew me away. I will probably put a 3rd on there and see if I need more after that.

Like panther said, type Toms 1/3 mix into google search and it will take you to his site.

I am going to be refinishing my Mosin Nagant soon. Its got great rifling and the barrel is VERY clean for how old it is.

But the stock needs work. It was the best in the lot, at least in terms of internals. The rest had good stocks, but dirty barrels.

I will post some before and after pics ASAP. I will be using ONLY Toms 1/3 to refinish the stock.

panther308
06-23-2011, 08:36 PM
Here ya go

http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com/

86SVO351
06-24-2011, 07:14 AM
emp729: Once the beeswax melts down, and you have added the other two items of turp and BLO/Tung oil, it is done. Pour into a plastic container (like the small tub butter comes in) and let cool. This is what I do when I want to put it on a stock. Let the mixture and rifle stock sit out in the sun to warm both up. If the 1/3 mix appears to be dry on the surface, add just a splash of turp or BLO, and then let it sit in the sun. I think that it works into the wood better when it is warm. Once I have worked it into my stock using only my fingers to rub it in, I again let it sit in the sun for about 15-20 minutes. You can see that it melting and filling in the wood pores. When this happens, I take a towel and polish the wood to remove the excess wax. Thats it. The place that I got my wax from is: www.glorybeefoods.com. Give it a try Eddie, and if you have any questions emai me at austin571@darientel.net. Bruce J.

grumpa72
06-24-2011, 07:23 AM
You didn't ask but I will volunteer information anyhow - Fairtrimmers! Great color, easy to use, no glossy look and a nice walnut color and look.

I did two rifles, one in Fairtrimmer and one in BLO. Both gorgeous but much less work with Fairtrimmers and the color. Did I mention the color?

Btw, i have read good thngs about Toms but no experience there.

JR1987
06-24-2011, 07:57 AM
Fairtrimmers seems to produce good results as well. So many options for finishing a rifle stock. I love working with wood, so much character, and you can really "customize" it yourself.

Got any pics of your rifle finished with that? How many coats do you apply?

I originally bought Toms to "add" to my finish. Its done that and far more. I am going to refinish my Mosin using only Toms and see how it turns out.

Taroman
06-24-2011, 12:07 PM
Did mine with Fairtrimmers and Tom's mix. As stated the mix is a great product that gives the stock good grip. Only downside is that when I went to rub it again, the mix had evaporated in the tin and was really sticky/waxy.

http://www.hverovhe.com/m1lt.jpg

Torquemada
06-24-2011, 04:38 PM
I've used both Fairtrimmers and Tom's 1/3 before on several different stocks to very good results.

Tom's 1/3 does dry out/cure a little once you open it. I actually talked to Tom about it - he said he thought it was the BLO curing on the surface. I tried taking a piece of cling wrap and pressing it against the surface of the mix (so that most/all of the air bubbles are pressed out) before I put it away, and that seems to work pretty well to keep the BLO from curing.

epm729
06-26-2011, 08:57 AM
Well, I made up a batch of Gunny's Paste yesterday. I think it came out well, has the consistantsy of soft butter. I'm going to try it on my carbine stock . I 'll post before and after pictures when I'm done. Thanks to H.S.Mantooth Jr.and 86SVO351 for their help on the details.

86SVO351
06-27-2011, 05:54 AM
I know that you will like the way it works. Glad I could help. Bruce J.

precision40
06-27-2011, 09:24 AM
I've got 3 coats of 1/3 on a new Dupage stock and honestly can't tell a big difference, but I suspect it'll take a few more coats. Now on my post-war H&R stock, it only took 2 coats to become really nice, I'm sold on the stuff.

Aladinbama
07-23-2011, 08:17 PM
Just as an FYI, I am now packaging 4 ounces, 25% more, in PET containers. The new plastic containers with screw on lids eliminate the air that entered the tin containers once they were opened. I've had a few sitting in my garage for over 9 months now and they are still good to go - fresh as new.

Thank You guys for all the kind comments. I try to produce a great product and now with the new containers it should last a while as well.

Tom
www.thegunstockdoctor.com (http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com)