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Old 06-24-2018, 05:27 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 3,783
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Here is today's update.
1903A3 stock (last was post #59).
Purple power didn't take of the shiny finish. I tried lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, no luck, so probably not varnish or shellac? Maybe polyurethane, maybe TruOil?
I purchased some Citristrip, many have recommended it. I painted on with a 2" brush, wiped dry, per the directions. Took 2 applications, worked great.
I lightly sanded the stock with a pad sander, carefully avoiding the cartouches. I found a small split up front, more of a sliver, so I worked in some cyanoacrylate (super glue) and ran some sandpaper over it.
Now it's time to pin the repairs. There are many ways and many materials to use, here is mine. I hope it works.

Stock sanded, note holes for pins


I used a hand drill, a drill press would be better. You can see where I used tape on the drill bit to mark the depth, I made sure each hole was drilled a good bit past the crack but the tape avoided a stupid mistake of going too far.


I have seen some high dollar stock pins, they look to me like threaded brass rod with a slotted end for a screwdriver. I looked at HD/Lowes for some plain threaded rod, no luck. I looked at brass screws, none looked good to me. So eBay to the rescue, I got some threaded rod (2.5mm and 3mm as below) and some knurled inserts.
Can you use steel? Sure, but I have seen steel pins in 100+ year old stocks, most had rust problems. Stocks have a significant moisture content, so keep that in mind.



Why the knurled inserts Zvenoman?
Screw 2 together with a short piece of rod, seal with superglue and you have a handy stock pin insert tool.
I measured the depth of each hole with a toothpick and cut a slightly longer pin.
Once all were cut, I filled the hole with epoxy (no need to fill all the way, just run some drops in with a toothpick.
I threaded the rod into the hole with the tool, and went on to the next one. I used a 7/64" bit and it left enough bite on the 3mm pins. The glue will be forced into the wood fibers and bond it all together.
I mixed some walnut sawdust (saved from sanding earlier) into the remaining epoxy to make a thick paste and worked it onto a few gouges in the stock.
It's now drying, I'll get back to it in a few days.


Genuine stock pins are made to screw into the stock so they are below the surface. You then use a dowel or filler to seal the hole. It would take a few extra minutes to do that to these pins if you want. Just cut them shorter then cut a slot in one end and screw in with a small screwdriver. A dremel will do all of this if you care to try it. Brownells brass is no better than eBay brass (nothing against Brownells; if you remember how many M1 stocks I have you know why I bought in bulk).
I left these proud as I think most military repairs did it this way, and I don't care to hide the pins. Once dry I'll cut with a hacksaw and file and sand, they will be flush. Brass is easy to work, especially with hand tools, that's another reason its common in stock repair.
JH

Last edited by ZvenoMan; 06-25-2018 at 07:07 PM.
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