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Old 04-01-2010, 08:42 PM
Ericc Ericc is offline
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,489

Originally Posted by drmsparks View Post
I'm looking forward to trying some parkerizing (the PVC tanks using hot water tank heating elements are brilliant). I'm also gathering stuff for surface prep.

Does the matte finish on the bead blasted parts affect the parkerizing?

and How does the 220 affect the heel stamps?


The aluminum oxide 220 grit stuff acts like a parkerizing eraser. It's really amazing, it takes maybe 1 minute to do a receiver.

I really like the aluminum oxide media because it does very little to the actual metal surface. All the original machining marks are still clearly visible. It would never hurt anything stamped into the metal.

I take my blasted parts and immediately put them into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with only RO water for about 20 seconds to remove any media that might be stuck on the surface. (A quick wash under the faucet would probably do the same.) From there they go right into the parkerizing tank.

For op-rods I glued up an ABS sewer pipe with a cap glued on one end. I fill the pipe with boiling water and let it sit while I'm blasting. When I'm done blasting I pour out the not hot water and replace it with the near boiling parkerizing solution. Then I stick the op-rod in with the piston facing down.

The hot water step heats up the pipe and keeps your parkerizing solution at optimum temperature longer.

-- Dont forget to degrease the inside of the op-rod before putting it in your tank. Some people cork the end if you dont want to refinish the inside. If you dont plug it then it will take about 50 rounds for the spring to smooth out the finish on the inside. It will sound a little gritty as the spring slides on the fresh parkerizing.

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