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This activity slows down the estore and can cause problems with it crashing, errors with people's orders, and inventory errors, particularly during periods of high demand/traffic.
Anyone making such posts on the forum will be warned once, then have their forum privileges suspended at least temporarily for a second violation. Further violations can result in permanent suspension.
* There will be no posting of links to, or copying information from listings on outside auctions/commercial sites, i.e. -- Gunbroker, Ebay, Armslist, Craigslist, Reddit, gun trader sites, etc, that are still active/live. We will not provide a platform for members to promote said auctions as there is no viable way to determine whether they or someone they know has a stake in the auction. Posts with this information will be removed. Continual violations will result in suspension of forum privileges. You may link to closed/completed auctions in the sake of education and learning.
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ADDITIONAL RULES, TO INCLUDE MARKETPLACE/CLASSIFIED AD RULES:
1. Profile Requirements
To start a sale, buy or trade thread anywhere in the Marketplace, your Profile must contain:
A. Your FIRST and LAST name as well as your STATE of residence. Your profile privacy settings must be set to at least allow registered users the ability to view your profile info, i.e. - Not set to "Friends only."
B. You must "enable receive email and PM’s" in your Control panel if you intend to buy or sell.
Additionally, you must have a valid email address listed in your registration profile (which can only be viewed by moderators/admin in the vBulletin master page).
Users with obvious fake names, or using false names in their profile will be permanently removed from the forum without warning. PLEASE NOTE: When a member has failed to put their full names and location in their profile, their ads will be deleted WITHOUT NOTICE. You are responsible enough to be involved in firearm activity, so you can be responsible enough to read and understand the forum rules. The posted rules ARE your notice as they are posted throughout the forum. Threads/ads will be restored once a member has updated their profile with first and last name, and state.
2. The Marketplace is intended SOLELY for the mutual benefit of forum members as a resource to support each other's collecting and/or shooting goals.
It is NOT intended for, and will NOT be used by members as a repeated, for-profit venture/operation. This includes:
A. Purchasing items from members on the forum, then posting them for sale at a markup/profit on other commercial sites, i.e. – eBay, Gunbroker, etc.
B. Reselling items at a considerable markup that were recently purchased from CMP.
Members found to have clearly abused this policy will lose the ability to post in and use the Marketplace, and potentially have their forum privileges suspended, temporarily or permanently.
3. You may only list personally owned items, and/or request/WTB items for yourself. “Selling (or buying) this for a friend/family member” ads, and 3rd-party sales/purchases are prohibited.
Additionally, NO posting or linking to listings on eBay, Craigslist, Gunbroker, Reddit, or other outside auction/commercial sites. We will not have the items placed here also. List your product here, try to sell it here, then take it to eBay, Craigslist, Gunbroker, auction-arms, etc.
4. There will be no “auction style” selling here…If you post an item for sale and it says anything like "I will take the highest offer" it will be removed.
We ask that you list your item on just one forum, so there is not confusion and/or issues with an item being sold on another forum when someone attempts to purchase it here. If you do list and sell on another forum, it is your responsibility to immediately update your ad on our forum…if you do not, your privilege to post in the Marketplace and even the forum itself may be suspended, at least temporarily.
NOTE REGARDING 1911 PISTOLS PURCHASED FROM CMP: If you are considering selling a 1911/1911A1 you acquired directly from CMP, you MUST obtain approval from CMP1911ADMIN before listing it on the forum as purchasers of these weapons are not allowed to resell them as a condition of the purchase. You may reach him via PM or email: [email protected]
5. Vendors (or people selling large quantities of the same item as part of a commercial venture) must first contact a moderator or admin.
6. Omission of information is also known as fraud. It is wholly the responsibility of the person listing an item to describe it ACCURATELY and TRUTHFULLY.
Example: If you are selling a rifle stock that has a 9 inch crack in it you need to disclose that information to the buyer. Do not describe the item or tell the buyer that the stock has "light scratches" only.
If we determine that you defraud a member by failing to disclose facts about your items, your access to this section will be restricted and you may be permanently banned from the forum.
7. CLASSIFIED AD REQUIREMENTS
A. Briefly describe your item in the title, along with WTS, WTT or WTB.
B. We do not have any rules regarding notification of a purchase or trade in an ad...it can be accomplished via a post on the thread, a PM, an email, a phone call, a pigeon carrier, etc. However, if you set the terms of your sale, you must follow them! We do not require or enforce any conditions of purchase; however, if a member violates their own terms then they are subject to at least suspension from the Marketplace section. For example: If you say, "First 'I'll take it' gets it," and sell to someone via PM or email without updating your ad and someone posts they'll take it, that's on you. We will not be party to a dispute, but you WILL lose your privilege to post in the Marketplace as a minimum since you failed to follow your own conditions.
C. You must list a price, and make it easily visible, not just lost in the description. Ads without a price will be deleted. It is ok to list a price and OBO (or best offer); however, no auction-style listings
D. As noted in item #4, provide ALL and ACCURATE details. i.e color, size, caliber, year, make, model, condition, defects, etc
E. Post pictures, or at least the links to them. If you are unable to post pics, then make them available via e-mail.
F. List shipping, pick-up or delivery options for the buyer, as well as cost.
G. Be sure to mark your ad as "SOLD" once the items are sold.
8. Do not bump ads older than 90 days without moderator approval. Ads older than 90 days will be locked if they get bumped.
9. Do not bump an ad more than once within a 24-hour period. Ads bumped multiple times within 24 hours will be locked or deleted. Members who continually do this will have their ads locked or deleted, and will lose your privilege to post in the Marketplace.
10. Remove previous bump posts so as to keep the size of the threads to a minimum. Nobody wants to have to search through 4+ pages of "Bump" or "ttt" posts simply to find information on the item listed.
If not removed, mods will remove them and/or delete the thread if it gets out of hand.
11. If you commit to buy or sell, please contact the seller or buyer within 24 hours with a PM or email to make arrangements.
12. If an item is sold, please mark the thread as such. This will help eliminate the old threads coming back up, as well as help those looking for specific items.
13. For WTB items anywhere in the Marketplace:
- Only respond to a WTB ad if you possess the requested item or have specific knowledge of that item’s availability. For example, do not post, “Check eBay” or “Check Gunbroker.”
- Once you have found/purchased the item(s) desired, delete the thread so as to not waste other members' time and allow for other threads to have visibility.
14. Keep the classified threads clean of extraneous/fluff comments and questions, regardless of how innocent or praiseworthy. This prevents derailing the thread and generating wasteful, opinionated discussions, as well as surreptitious bumping of threads.
If you have a technical or knowledge question relating to a listed item, start a new thread or search and add to an existing thread.
If you want to thank or praise a seller or item, DON'T do it in the sale thread as it unnecessarily bumps a stale thread, and said comments will be deleted. Instead, do the person the courtesy of posting in the Buyer/Seller Feedback section here: http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=81
Basically, if you don't have a question DIRECTLY related to a sale/trade/purchase of a specific thread, don't post! And this particularly applies to stomping a member’s ad concerning their asking price as there is a tendency to post negative replies when someone lists an item for sale that others consider overpriced.
We will not tolerate members stomping another member's ad concerning their asking price.
This also includes posting low-ball offers. If you want to make an offer lower than the asking price, even if it states OBO, do it via PM or email.
If an item is sold and the listing member deleted the price (which is their prerogative) and you want to know what the price was, do NOT post in the thread…send the member a PM.
Those who continually stomp or hijack other member's ads will face temporary, and even permanent suspension of their forum privileges.
15. No duplicate or multiple threads in different sections for the same item. Pick one section, the most applicable, and post there. Additional duplicate threads will be deleted.
16. You may not use the signature block function to solicit purchases, trades and/or sales. That is why we have the Marketplace...post a thread with your specific WTB, WTS, WTT ad.
You may have up to two lines stating you are looking or searching for a particular rifle/weapon and serial number.
As with individual posts, signature blocks/lines are subject to the same forum rules and will be handled accordingly if they violate any forum rules, policies/procedures or take up too much room of a post.
OTHER TIPS/GUIDELINES
- Buyers and Sellers should verify each other’s identity before sending money and/or products. If possible, get each other’s phone number and have a quick conversation to confirm the transaction details.
- As a suggestion: sellers should consider using delivery confirmation to avoid conflicts from buyers; saying they never received the products.
- Buyers, get to know the seller a little before you blindly send cash. If something does not seem right; it probably isn't. If something seems too good to be true; it probably is. Contact a moderator or report a thread/post that appears to be a scam.
- Respect fellow members. This section is a great place to support/help out fellow members and occasionally make new friends. Please be respectful to your fellow members. Maybe try selling here to a member instead of eBay, maybe save them a buck or two. If you have any questions, problems or concerns feel free to contact a moderator or admin.
- We do not require members to keep ads, or keep a listing price in the thread. It is your ad, so you are free to delete it at your discretion, as well as remove the asking price if you so desire. If someone is curious about the price for what an item sold, contact the seller via PM…do NOT post in thread.
- Lastly, don't forget the <b>Buyer/Seller Feedback section</b> http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=81
Be sure to express a good or bad experience with your buyer or seller, and let others know what to expect. Also be sure to check there for a member if you are concerned BEFORE you buy.
MODERATION RULES/ENFORCEMENT
1. All spammers get banned instantly and permanently.
2. Inappropriate or out of hand threads shall be closed with or without reason posted for the closure or deleted at the discretion of the Mods/Admins.
3. If you cannot follow the rules set forth, your posts may be deleted, removed, or edited by the Moderators.
4. If you repeatedly do not follow the rules set forth, you will be banned from this section or from the CMP Forum for any length of time from 2 days to permanently, at the discretion of the Moderators.
NOTE: These rules can change at any time. Administrators and Moderators have the right to make any decision that fits the website and its users.
DISCLAIMER
The CMP, any of its staff and forum administrators/moderators assume NO liability or responsibility for Marketplace transactions. Members will use at their own risk, and CMP will not be responsible for any disputes or claims between members involving a transaction.
The Civilian Marksmanship Program forum is intended primarily to be a technically-oriented website for professional, courteous, and intellectual discussion of CMP matches, activities, firearms and related events. We are an online community founded by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts, of all ages and walks of life. Remember that we have youth CMP participants who view this site. Please enjoy your stay and with your help, we can make the CMP Forums safe for all.
The opinions and posts on this site do not necessarily reflect those of The Civilian Marksmanship Program.
If you have any questions, please contact a Moderator
I have recovered a couple. I got two drill rifles this week.
The barrel welds on these ones are a little larger than the ones in the past. That being said the weld is 80% on the barrel. The cutoffs were not to bad.
Both of the rifles had 9-43 barrels. One measured a .5 and the other measured just below .5 at the muzzle.
Here are a few pictures of the welds. I have removed the cutoffs and started cleaning up the welds.
Converting a drill rifle to an operable rifle should be done with consideration as to what welding might have done to the metal of the receiver and also the bolt. Depending on the amount and location of the welds.
I purchased some drill rifles (without stocks) from CMP a few years back. There were welds at the cutoff, bottom of the receiver where the barrel connected, in the barrel under the stock to hold a steel rod placed in the chamber, and on the bolt face. Also, the striker was ground down.
Converting one to an operable rifle involved removing and discarding the barrel and replacing it with a new one, cleaning out the cutoff slot and replacing the cut off and pin which holds it, and discarding the bolt and striker and replacing them with new or serviceable bolt parts which head spaced properly.
While I suppose one might be able to drill out and grind down the weld on a drill rifle bolt, I would suggest not doing this for fear of metal failure in this critical area.
How's that barrel weld working out lemmonhead? Mine is pretty heavy. Planning on sending it out as I have no lathe.
I am waiting on a friend to use his lathe. I am hesitant to start filing down the weld too much as I don't want to dig into the receiver face. I don't have a safety file, I need to invest in one. I have cleaned up the cut off welds already. If you haven't already looked; the RayVin has a good tutorial on drill rifle recovery. http://www.foundry.ray-vin.com/firea...drillrifle.htm
I decided to order a White Oak 1903 barrel. If you call them you may see if there are any discounts. Still more than a Criterion but I am curious as to how this will shoot and hold up.
While I suppose one might be able to drill out and grind down the weld on a drill rifle bolt, I would suggest not doing this for fear of metal failure in this critical area.
chuckindenver has said that he has tried to grind down the weld on the bolt face and drill a new hole. A couple problems that he said he encountered were the weld bled through the original hole and is very difficult to remove completely so there will be a bur on the backside of the bolt face. Also he said it is difficult to get the hole in the exact correct spot and the correct size. Any oversize of the striker hole will allow the primer to flow back into the hole and could cause problems. In short it is not worth it to mess around with the bolt. Especially when replacement bolts are still plentiful and relatively cheap.
I have recovered two drill rifles. Both shoot very well!
I bought (2) new old stock(correct to the rifle) bolts.The cost is not much as you know! I did try to grind & drill out the welded bolt hole anyway. The stainless steel weld made the bolt face VERY hard.
On one bolt, the face of the bolt chipped out badly. As I tried to drill through the cleared flush weld from the back!
I did not think using the welded bolt's were worth the definite high pressure safety risk.
My drill rifle from Dupages arrived a couple of days ago and the welds are just as described. The cutoff wasn't bad at all but the barrel removal is turning into a real chore. I still can't get it off. The stock is in wonderful shape with all the proper cartouches and I'm ordering a bolt body. If nothing else the rifle is worth it in parts alone.
NIW bolts are very inexpensive. Recovered bolts often develop stellate cracks around the firing pin hole. I remove the drill barrels by first making a 360 degree relief cut (very close to the receiver face) with a cut off saw, place the receiver in a good (big) bench vise, use two pipe wrenches across from each other on the barrel, one quick snap and the barrel comes off. Use a flat file to clean up the receiver and you are done. Never needed my lathe. Good Shooting. ...
I appreciate the input on barrel removal. While I have made a deep cut at the spot weld, the action continues to turn in my bench vise no matter how tight I close the jaws. i'll just keep trying. I'm thinking my bench vise is just too small.
You must make the relief cut 360 degrees and very close to the receiver face. Use cardboard or a thin wood pad for the big flat on the bottom of the receiver and a lead or hardwood block for the top. The vise must be tight. Good Shooting. ...
With a relief cut the barrel comes off pretty easy.
When placing the barrel in a vise, make sure the barrel is in the center of the jaws. I rotated my vise about 60 degrees counter clockwise and placed the barrel in the center of the jaws with the mid part of the barre resting up against the vise. The barrel come off without much force.
If you don't have a mill or lathe then use a safety file to remove the weld as much as possible without getting into the receiver face.
My drill rifle from Dupages arrived a couple of days ago and the welds are just as described. The cutoff wasn't bad at all but the barrel removal is turning into a real chore. I still can't get it off. The stock is in wonderful shape with all the proper cartouches and I'm ordering a bolt body. If nothing else the rifle is worth it in parts alone.
Been fighting the urge to order one, you have any pictures?
25+ transactions, 100% Positive Itrader rating,
Until the dark day it was turned off
lemonhead's pictures are pretty close to actual welds used. My spot welds weren't quite as heavy, but in the same spot. You WILL need a replacement bolt body and firing pin tip, which can be bought fairly cheaply. I also purchased a cut-off since I cut mine when removing it. Also very cheap to buy. The rifle stock was very good and front blade perfect. I purchased mine just to see if I could restore it to operating conditions.
I picked up a drill 03 from Liberty Tree Collectors earlier this year. It was a bit rougher than what I've seen the Dupage ones. I got it back into firing condition, found some NOS parts, got a correct date NOS barrel for it as well. Fun project, first time I reamed a barrel so it was a learning project.
25+ transactions, 100% Positive Itrader rating,
Until the dark day it was turned off
I got mine from Dupage the other day, a Remington. Unfortunately my cutoff weld was up in the corner similar to the “worst” picture on the Dupage site but much smaller weld. Not too bad but it affected the ejector screw and am strggling with that. Came with a scant stock with AAG markings, but that is it. Kind of rough shape. Not complaining, just stating facts. For $200, you sometimes get what you pay for. My Dremmel tool went belly up so a new one will here tomorrow so the cutting begins this weekend.
Not doubting the experience of those that have done this already, but what does the relief cut buy you in the barrel removal?
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. Still more than a Criterion but I am curious as to how this will shoot and hold up. 
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