* No flaming or insulting of other members. You will get one warning via a private message. Repeat offenses will result in being banned. (We are quite serious about this folks).
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* When posting, try to use descriptive titles for your threads to enhance the searchability of the site. Thread titles such as "Help Me" or "Dang this sucks" should NOT be used. Instead try titles like 'Need Help with Sights', 'How to Perform Stock Refinish', or 'Vibration in Handguard". This will help other people search the site with better accuracy and make it easier for people to help you out.
* Everyone has a personal opinion and they will often differ from others. If you get into an argument over something, debate the issue, not the member. If you feel the need to get into a heated discussion with someone, send them a private message. Personal debates on the forum will not be tolerated.
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* Do NOT post any messages that are obscene, vulgar, sexually-orientated, hateful, threatening, or otherwise violate any laws. These types of messages will not be tolerated. You will get one warning via a private message. Serious offenses may result in immediate permanent suspension. Repeat offenses will result in being permanently suspended.
* Avoid thread hi-jacking. Moderators will be looking for this and will more than likely split the topic if it gets too drastic, as well as take appropriate action where deemed necessary, to include deleting posts and/or enforcement action.
Please do not post the same question or post across multiple forums, or in the same thread. The best way to get the answers you are searching for is to post a clear single question in the appropriate forum and be patient, Replies will come. If you are in a hurry for a particular answer try using the search button or reading through replies to similar questions. It may just contain the information that you need. No need to post the same information again and again as this just clogs up threads/sub-forums.
Do not bump non-Marketplace threads as that can clutter the front page of a discussion forum. Posts bumping discussion threads will be deleted.
* Any members advertising their wares on the site without expressed permission will get banned. Personal items for sale in the classifieds are ok as long as the meet the criteria laid out in the site rules.
* Do not post any info, posts or threads regarding the process of going to the estore and artificially placing a large number of items in your cart simply for the purpose of seeing what inventory remains of an item carried on the estore!
This activity slows down the estore and can cause problems with it crashing, errors with people's orders, and inventory errors, particularly during periods of high demand/traffic.
Anyone making such posts on the forum will be warned once, then have their forum privileges suspended at least temporarily for a second violation. Further violations can result in permanent suspension.
* There will be no posting of links to, or copying information from listings on outside auctions/commercial sites, i.e. -- Gunbroker, Ebay, Armslist, Craigslist, Reddit, gun trader sites, etc, that are still active/live. We will not provide a platform for members to promote said auctions as there is no viable way to determine whether they or someone they know has a stake in the auction. Posts with this information will be removed. Continual violations will result in suspension of forum privileges. You may link to closed/completed auctions in the sake of education and learning.
* Users who post fake information, i.e. - name, location, in their profile, or otherwise provide/post false information/data about themselves will be instantly banned. Users who register multiple usernames will also be removed.
* Your account may be revoked at any time for any reason.
Generally, the following enforcement policy will apply:
1st offense - warning
2nd offense - banned for one week to six month
3rd offense - banned for one year
4th offense - banned permanently
** Depending on the nature of the offense/rule violation, first offense can result in ANY of the above enforcement actions.
ADDITIONAL RULES, TO INCLUDE MARKETPLACE/CLASSIFIED AD RULES:
1. Profile Requirements
To start a sale, buy or trade thread anywhere in the Marketplace, your Profile must contain:
A. Your FIRST and LAST name as well as your STATE of residence. Your profile privacy settings must be set to at least allow registered users the ability to view your profile info, i.e. - Not set to "Friends only."
B. You must "enable receive email and PM’s" in your Control panel if you intend to buy or sell.
Additionally, you must have a valid email address listed in your registration profile (which can only be viewed by moderators/admin in the vBulletin master page).
Users with obvious fake names, or using false names in their profile will be permanently removed from the forum without warning. PLEASE NOTE: When a member has failed to put their full names and location in their profile, their ads will be deleted WITHOUT NOTICE. You are responsible enough to be involved in firearm activity, so you can be responsible enough to read and understand the forum rules. The posted rules ARE your notice as they are posted throughout the forum. Threads/ads will be restored once a member has updated their profile with first and last name, and state.
2. The Marketplace is intended SOLELY for the mutual benefit of forum members as a resource to support each other's collecting and/or shooting goals.
It is NOT intended for, and will NOT be used by members as a repeated, for-profit venture/operation. This includes:
A. Purchasing items from members on the forum, then posting them for sale at a markup/profit on other commercial sites, i.e. – eBay, Gunbroker, etc.
B. Reselling items at a considerable markup that were recently purchased from CMP.
Members found to have clearly abused this policy will lose the ability to post in and use the Marketplace, and potentially have their forum privileges suspended, temporarily or permanently.
3. You may only list personally owned items, and/or request/WTB items for yourself. “Selling (or buying) this for a friend/family member” ads, and 3rd-party sales/purchases are prohibited.
Additionally, NO posting or linking to listings on eBay, Craigslist, Gunbroker, Reddit, or other outside auction/commercial sites. We will not have the items placed here also. List your product here, try to sell it here, then take it to eBay, Craigslist, Gunbroker, auction-arms, etc.
4. There will be no “auction style” selling here…If you post an item for sale and it says anything like "I will take the highest offer" it will be removed.
We ask that you list your item on just one forum, so there is not confusion and/or issues with an item being sold on another forum when someone attempts to purchase it here. If you do list and sell on another forum, it is your responsibility to immediately update your ad on our forum…if you do not, your privilege to post in the Marketplace and even the forum itself may be suspended, at least temporarily.
NOTE REGARDING 1911 PISTOLS PURCHASED FROM CMP: If you are considering selling a 1911/1911A1 you acquired directly from CMP, you MUST obtain approval from CMP1911ADMIN before listing it on the forum as purchasers of these weapons are not allowed to resell them as a condition of the purchase. You may reach him via PM or email: [email protected]
5. Vendors (or people selling large quantities of the same item as part of a commercial venture) must first contact a moderator or admin.
6. Omission of information is also known as fraud. It is wholly the responsibility of the person listing an item to describe it ACCURATELY and TRUTHFULLY.
Example: If you are selling a rifle stock that has a 9 inch crack in it you need to disclose that information to the buyer. Do not describe the item or tell the buyer that the stock has "light scratches" only.
If we determine that you defraud a member by failing to disclose facts about your items, your access to this section will be restricted and you may be permanently banned from the forum.
7. CLASSIFIED AD REQUIREMENTS
A. Briefly describe your item in the title, along with WTS, WTT or WTB.
B. We do not have any rules regarding notification of a purchase or trade in an ad...it can be accomplished via a post on the thread, a PM, an email, a phone call, a pigeon carrier, etc. However, if you set the terms of your sale, you must follow them! We do not require or enforce any conditions of purchase; however, if a member violates their own terms then they are subject to at least suspension from the Marketplace section. For example: If you say, "First 'I'll take it' gets it," and sell to someone via PM or email without updating your ad and someone posts they'll take it, that's on you. We will not be party to a dispute, but you WILL lose your privilege to post in the Marketplace as a minimum since you failed to follow your own conditions.
C. You must list a price, and make it easily visible, not just lost in the description. Ads without a price will be deleted. It is ok to list a price and OBO (or best offer); however, no auction-style listings
D. As noted in item #4, provide ALL and ACCURATE details. i.e color, size, caliber, year, make, model, condition, defects, etc
E. Post pictures, or at least the links to them. If you are unable to post pics, then make them available via e-mail.
F. List shipping, pick-up or delivery options for the buyer, as well as cost.
G. Be sure to mark your ad as "SOLD" once the items are sold.
8. Do not bump ads older than 90 days without moderator approval. Ads older than 90 days will be locked if they get bumped.
9. Do not bump an ad more than once within a 24-hour period. Ads bumped multiple times within 24 hours will be locked or deleted. Members who continually do this will have their ads locked or deleted, and will lose your privilege to post in the Marketplace.
10. Remove previous bump posts so as to keep the size of the threads to a minimum. Nobody wants to have to search through 4+ pages of "Bump" or "ttt" posts simply to find information on the item listed.
If not removed, mods will remove them and/or delete the thread if it gets out of hand.
11. If you commit to buy or sell, please contact the seller or buyer within 24 hours with a PM or email to make arrangements.
12. If an item is sold, please mark the thread as such. This will help eliminate the old threads coming back up, as well as help those looking for specific items.
13. For WTB items anywhere in the Marketplace:
- Only respond to a WTB ad if you possess the requested item or have specific knowledge of that item’s availability. For example, do not post, “Check eBay” or “Check Gunbroker.”
- Once you have found/purchased the item(s) desired, delete the thread so as to not waste other members' time and allow for other threads to have visibility.
14. Keep the classified threads clean of extraneous/fluff comments and questions, regardless of how innocent or praiseworthy. This prevents derailing the thread and generating wasteful, opinionated discussions, as well as surreptitious bumping of threads.
If you have a technical or knowledge question relating to a listed item, start a new thread or search and add to an existing thread.
If you want to thank or praise a seller or item, DON'T do it in the sale thread as it unnecessarily bumps a stale thread, and said comments will be deleted. Instead, do the person the courtesy of posting in the Buyer/Seller Feedback section here: http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=81
Basically, if you don't have a question DIRECTLY related to a sale/trade/purchase of a specific thread, don't post! And this particularly applies to stomping a member’s ad concerning their asking price as there is a tendency to post negative replies when someone lists an item for sale that others consider overpriced.
We will not tolerate members stomping another member's ad concerning their asking price.
This also includes posting low-ball offers. If you want to make an offer lower than the asking price, even if it states OBO, do it via PM or email.
If an item is sold and the listing member deleted the price (which is their prerogative) and you want to know what the price was, do NOT post in the thread…send the member a PM.
Those who continually stomp or hijack other member's ads will face temporary, and even permanent suspension of their forum privileges.
15. No duplicate or multiple threads in different sections for the same item. Pick one section, the most applicable, and post there. Additional duplicate threads will be deleted.
16. You may not use the signature block function to solicit purchases, trades and/or sales. That is why we have the Marketplace...post a thread with your specific WTB, WTS, WTT ad.
You may have up to two lines stating you are looking or searching for a particular rifle/weapon and serial number.
As with individual posts, signature blocks/lines are subject to the same forum rules and will be handled accordingly if they violate any forum rules, policies/procedures or take up too much room of a post.
OTHER TIPS/GUIDELINES
- Buyers and Sellers should verify each other’s identity before sending money and/or products. If possible, get each other’s phone number and have a quick conversation to confirm the transaction details.
- As a suggestion: sellers should consider using delivery confirmation to avoid conflicts from buyers; saying they never received the products.
- Buyers, get to know the seller a little before you blindly send cash. If something does not seem right; it probably isn't. If something seems too good to be true; it probably is. Contact a moderator or report a thread/post that appears to be a scam.
- Respect fellow members. This section is a great place to support/help out fellow members and occasionally make new friends. Please be respectful to your fellow members. Maybe try selling here to a member instead of eBay, maybe save them a buck or two. If you have any questions, problems or concerns feel free to contact a moderator or admin.
- We do not require members to keep ads, or keep a listing price in the thread. It is your ad, so you are free to delete it at your discretion, as well as remove the asking price if you so desire. If someone is curious about the price for what an item sold, contact the seller via PM…do NOT post in thread.
- Lastly, don't forget the <b>Buyer/Seller Feedback section</b> http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=81
Be sure to express a good or bad experience with your buyer or seller, and let others know what to expect. Also be sure to check there for a member if you are concerned BEFORE you buy.
MODERATION RULES/ENFORCEMENT
1. All spammers get banned instantly and permanently.
2. Inappropriate or out of hand threads shall be closed with or without reason posted for the closure or deleted at the discretion of the Mods/Admins.
3. If you cannot follow the rules set forth, your posts may be deleted, removed, or edited by the Moderators.
4. If you repeatedly do not follow the rules set forth, you will be banned from this section or from the CMP Forum for any length of time from 2 days to permanently, at the discretion of the Moderators.
NOTE: These rules can change at any time. Administrators and Moderators have the right to make any decision that fits the website and its users.
DISCLAIMER
The CMP, any of its staff and forum administrators/moderators assume NO liability or responsibility for Marketplace transactions. Members will use at their own risk, and CMP will not be responsible for any disputes or claims between members involving a transaction.
The Civilian Marksmanship Program forum is intended primarily to be a technically-oriented website for professional, courteous, and intellectual discussion of CMP matches, activities, firearms and related events. We are an online community founded by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts, of all ages and walks of life. Remember that we have youth CMP participants who view this site. Please enjoy your stay and with your help, we can make the CMP Forums safe for all.
The opinions and posts on this site do not necessarily reflect those of The Civilian Marksmanship Program.
If you have any questions, please contact a Moderator
This stuff will prevent the onset of that scourge, the cancer of shooting: Corrosive Ammo!
Careful, DHMO is a highly dangerous ingredient, responsible for many, many deaths world wide: http://www.dhmo.org/
Dihydrogen Monoxide and Cancer
The causative link between Dihydrogen Monoxide (DHMO) and Cancer is currently not established, although a significant amount of evidence seems to suggest that DHMO at least plays a role in the formation of cancer, including:
Again, the knock on corrosive isn't that cleanup can't be done, but rather that to remove all of the residue, one should at a minimum field strip the M1 rifle, and realistically take it a bit beyond that. Shooters with tight lockups who wish to keep them that way for the long haul generally minimize the number of take-downs.
Great point but I still defer to the fact that GIs cleaned after each firing session.
Few on this forum will shoot a Garand as often as a typical solder for whom it was designed.
Those with match rifles most likely use match ammo (commercial or home brew) so corrosive isn't an issue for them anyway.
I use Windex to swab out the bore and chamber.Then clean normally.
Alot of the people I know use it also for black powder.
I was told that the ammonia neautralizes the salts.
It has something to do with with PH.
Seems to work for me.
I do it as soon as I'm done firing.
I've always just used Hoppes (it's formulated to neutralize the corrosive salts) and cleaned like normal - corrosive or not. The important thing is to do it right away. I've never let a rifle sit overnight that had corrosive through it. But I don't think it adds any time or steps to cleaning. Sure, I have to drag my cleaning kit around, but I've got a small kit for that purpose. The big kit at home is for big cleans like cosmoline, grease, getting lead and copper deposits out...
Not trying to insight a riot, or an argument, but I tried this with my Mosin. Cleaned like normal, Hoppes 9, let it sit, bore brush, patches till they come out clean, light coat of oil.
The next time I checked the rifle, rust. Now I run a patch with WWII bore cleaner through it once a day for 3 days, then on the 4th day, clean like normal. No rust
"Take me to the Brig. I want to see the "real Marines". "
Major General Chesty Puller, USMC - while on a Battalion inspection.
This entire thread is a great argument for everyone to have a "shooter".
Remember when "mixmaster" was a dirty word? Today, that once-scorned rifle can be re-purposed as a "shooter". Check your OCD and AR factors at the door. Then shoot it. Hang it up wet or whatever.
I'd actually like to try this, assuming I'm going to live long enough and I had a pile of corrosive ammo to work with. Shoot my shooter with corrosive ammo, clean in an ordinary fashion with Hoppe's, and see what happens long term. What is the worst thing that can happen? A slightly pitted barrel on a rifle that I was never too fond of in the first place, maybe.
This stuff will prevent the onset of that scourge, the cancer of shooting: Corrosive Ammo!
Careful, DHMO is a highly dangerous ingredient, responsible for many, many deaths world wide: http://www.dhmo.org/
Dihydrogen Monoxide and Cancer
The causative link between Dihydrogen Monoxide (DHMO) and Cancer is currently not established, although a significant amount of evidence seems to suggest that DHMO at least plays a role in the formation of cancer, including:
Not trying to insight a riot, or an argument, but I tried this with my Mosin. Cleaned like normal, Hoppes 9, let it sit, bore brush, patches till they come out clean, light coat of oil.
The next time I checked the rifle, rust. Now I run a patch with WWII bore cleaner through it once a day for 3 days, then on the 4th day, clean like normal. No rust
Hoppe's for three days, leaving the bore wet each time works. The salts in the gas cracks is what caused rust in your rifle.
The formulation in GI Bore Cleaner be it WW2 or later vintage has the exact same performance requirements and the major difference is the smell will not irritate your mother in law or wife.
When I worked for the Army Small Cal Wpns Lab I had access to all the specs so on a lark I pulled up the spec and read the test procedure which oddly enough is conducted with a 1911A1 pistol to ignite the Corrosive primer.
It is conducted (if I remember correctly) by taking three pieces of metal and degreasing them well and running them through a blaster. The 1911A1 is loaded and pointed at the piece of metal from a few inches away and fired.
All three pieces of metal are then dipped one time in bore cleaner and removed and hung in a humid atmosphere for X number of days. When removed three specs over 1MM in diameter was cause for rejection of the lot.
If you can get all you can as it won't be made any more.
I suspect Ed's Red formula would work as well. I use 1/3rd Mercon Dexron, 1/3 off road diesel and 1/3 mineral spirits in mine.
Distinguished Smallbore Prone & Highpower Rifle # 514, Presidents 100, Member US Palma Teams & US Dewar Teams. Palma Twenty, Certified Small Arms and Ammunition Test Director Aberdeen Proving Ground, Maryland. Conducted small arms testing for US Army TECOM, Army Materials Systems Analysis Activity and the US Marine Corps.
Commandant USMC Commendation for "Exceptional Performance" on M16A1E1 Rifle Testing (adopted as M16A2) Army Commendation Dover Devil Cal 50 Machinegun Program.
Hopped works fine for me swabb. The bore let set for an hour then swab again the use soaked bore brush about 20 strokes then swab let set for a day or two the clean with ballistol leave damp with balistol for storage
boiling hot water and dish soap in metal coffee can,insert muzzle in can,pull brush through several times,change water and soap as needed till water stays clean,repeat a couple of times for a couple of days,oil and grease like normal. just the same as cleaning a black powder firearm. I don't use corrosive in semi autos any more,too many parts and a waste of ammo reseating rifle after reassembly. I scored a crap load of nationalist Chinese 30-06 back in the 80's,good stuff just corrosive as h#%$. I only use it in bolt guns,03's and 1917's. seems like over kill,but ive never had a crusty bore yet.
Corrosive Primer Redux
By
M.E. Podany, ALGC
With the resurgence of interest in Garand and Springfield shooting and the availability
of vintage .30-06 ammunition from the CMP, questions are being asked as to how to tell which
ammunition is corrosive and which is non-corrosive. A lot of hearsay information and poor
copies of tables of arsenal production are in circulation. An article originally published in the
January 1961 issue of American Rifleman discussed the evolution of non-corrosive primers
and how to distinguish which ammunition is non-corrosive. The information contained in the
original 1961 article has been condensed for this article.
First, a little history. For non-mercuric corrosive primers the primary corrosion culprit
is potassium chlorate (KClO3). Potassium chlorate was used as an oxidizer, providing oxygen,
to the primer compound reaction. When the reaction takes place the oxygen is removed from
the molecule leaving potassium chloride (KCl). Potassium chloride is a salt much like sodium
chloride (common table salt). As a matter of fact, take a look at most salt substitutes and you
will find that they contain potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride. The potassium
chloride residue left in a gun barrel absorbs water from the air and creates a corrosive film
responsible for barrel rusting. Since potassium chloride is highly soluble in water this is the
reason why it is recommended that barrels be washed with hot water after shooting corrosive
ammunition. It is also recommended that shooters wash their brass that contained corrosive
primers in the same manner.
Water's the only thing that going to take away salts. I personally use ballistol/water mix. When it drys, it leaves a slight protective film (not really noticeable) so I don't have to worry about rust. It doesn't smell (or stink should be the better word), it's really cheap for the amount you get mixed with water, cleans well, is non-toxic, and won't hurt the wood of the rifle. I don't have to clean for days as I hose my rifle down with the water/ballistol mix and then wipe excess off. Never had rust with this method.
I see people with the windex at the range and chuckle. If you want to use it great. It's just an expensive water mix that doesn't do anything more then tap water would do. I also hear of people using all sorts of things for cleaning corrosive, like usgi bore cleaner (hard to find, smelly, toxic IIRC), water and soap (not bad but there is more worry about rust and where does the soap go?), Hoppes (good cleaner but it is expensive to use any quantity to flush salts and may have to repeatably clean).
I was once afraid to shoot corrosive. Now I just shoot corrosive right before I'm going to tear down one of my garands anyway for it's annual cleaning.
I wish the CMP was pulling the few rounds of corrosive out of the HXP ammo and was selling loose corrosive ammo for a few bucks less. I'd buy all I could.
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