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  #31  
Old 02-24-2016, 06:32 AM
The Original Youngblood The Original Youngblood is offline
 
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Location: Virginia, on the west side of my ancestral farm
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Denatured alcohol will dissolve shellac.

A don't know if this is what you are facing, but ... refinishers will often use a bit of shellac on end-grain areas to stop its sponge-like behavior.
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  #32  
Old 02-24-2016, 12:42 PM
ozarkmac ozarkmac is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Missouri Ozarks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTCGOU View Post
Any suggestions on how to break down areas which appear to be shellac in appearance? I have a couple stocks that I cleaned up with Mineral Spirits but It wouldn't touch a few spots. I don't want to strip it down to the bare wood but back to the original finish with out all the grime. Thanks..
Been reading a bunch of information on cleaning stocks and this one from The Orig YB, as well as another one I watched on Youtube, make the most sense. Start with the least invasive products and advance as needed. The Youtube I watched was a gent that had cleaned dozens the same way. His process was just as simple as The Orig YB. A 50/50 mix of plain old Turpentine and Boiled Linseed Oil. He used a 0000 piece of steel wool and lightly rubbed it several time as needed until all the grime was removed and in most cases, as The Orig YB stated, there was a beautiful or at least "acceptable" finish under it all. For me, the last thing I want to do is do a full refinish job.
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  #33  
Old 02-29-2016, 10:28 AM
chrisjp chrisjp is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: corry pa
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i have some dark Greek return CMP (barely see the grain through them) hand guards and started with OYB recommendation. started with a 50/50 mix simple green and water to clean. didnt remove much. moved on to BLO/low oder mineral spirits with 0000 steel wool. let sit for 20 mins. still barely removed the darkness...i could start to see the wood grain. wish i had taken a before and after pic so i can get an idea of my progression. but i have only worked on the top wood. the hand guard is much darker originally. so ill take pics and again try to tackle. i am doing it slow as my stock is a nice deep red but not black and i like that color and is not "shiny" but the 2 other pieces are darker with shiny smoothness to them (wonders if they "shellacked" and may need more agressive removal to get to the Finnish underneath)
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  #34  
Old 02-29-2016, 01:13 PM
ozarkmac ozarkmac is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Missouri Ozarks
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Originally Posted by chrisjp View Post
i have some dark Greek return CMP (barely see the grain through them) hand guards and started with OYB recommendation. started with a 50/50 mix simple green and water to clean. didnt remove much. moved on to BLO/low oder mineral spirits with 0000 steel wool. let sit for 20 mins. still barely removed the darkness...i could start to see the wood grain. wish i had taken a before and after pic so i can get an idea of my progression. but i have only worked on the top wood. the hand guard is much darker originally. so ill take pics and again try to tackle. i am doing it slow as my stock is a nice deep red but not black and i like that color and is not "shiny" but the 2 other pieces are darker with shiny smoothness to them (wonders if they "shellacked" and may need more agressive removal to get to the Finnish underneath)
I use the same except I substitute turpentine for the mineral spirits. Seems to do a better job of slowly removing layers. I'm not doing refinishes. This is just to get the grime and any light coats of varnish, poly, etc.
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  #35  
Old 02-29-2016, 03:49 PM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisjp View Post
i have some dark Greek return CMP (barely see the grain through them) hand guards and started with OYB recommendation. started with a 50/50 mix simple green and water to clean. didnt remove much. moved on to BLO/low oder mineral spirits with 0000 steel wool. let sit for 20 mins. still barely removed the darkness...i could start to see the wood grain. wish i had taken a before and after pic so i can get an idea of my progression. but i have only worked on the top wood. the hand guard is much darker originally. so ill take pics and again try to tackle. i am doing it slow as my stock is a nice deep red but not black and i like that color and is not "shiny" but the 2 other pieces are darker with shiny smoothness to them (wonders if they "shellacked" and may need more agressive removal to get to the Finnish underneath)
Forget Simple Green, it is diluted and does very little. Purple Power is concentarte and will strip it down to bare wood if that is what you want to do
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  #36  
Old 03-15-2016, 12:36 PM
tcostakis tcostakis is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Bluffton, SC
Posts: 425
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Plain old pure 100% tung oil and cheesecloth to dissolve the crud and clean it then two or three coats of Tom's 1/3 Mix. Works great...simple is good.
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  #37  
Old 04-02-2016, 07:57 PM
tda003 tda003 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: St. Simons Island, GA
Posts: 138
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I have had good luck with Go-Jo hand cleaner. A tip given me by an old antique dealed. Gets rid of dirt, grime, grease, etc. and you can see if the finish underneath is worth restoring w/o stripping any finish off. I used to use 0000 steel wool, but have switched to the black scotch pads.
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  #38  
Old 06-27-2018, 10:22 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is online now
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
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Bump to the top because you need to read this thread
Zvenoman
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