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  #171  
Old 07-12-2018, 09:38 PM
smallfry smallfry is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
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I bought a stock from the Netherlands and I t was a tight fit. I would lower the trigger pack with the trigger guard st 45 to the stock. I would make sure it was fitting flat against the stock. Lowered the guard and pushed down like crazy. Guess what, it did lock but it was very tight. I got a nice stock replacement It's an open box with a T .
I field stripped it 2 more times and say to myself. This is a nice tight stock and want keep it that way so now its not been field stripped since. Lay your rifle down properly, put a towel on the trigger guard then get a shoe and smack it. That's giving a not too aggressive smack. But smack it good!.

I finished my stock with flaxseed oil from Rite Aid (black bottle) and the stock now has a beautiful red toNE with wood grain darkening in the right place. I will never stain my M1 stock. I've heard once a day for a week. Once a month then once a year after . Did I say that right? Anyways avoid staining and use the flaxseed oil
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  #172  
Old 08-21-2018, 08:46 AM
skwchock skwchock is offline
 
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Location: Woodbridge, VA
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Thank you. Very helpful. Good info.
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  #173  
Old 08-21-2018, 09:18 AM
smallfry smallfry is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skwchock View Post
Thank you. Very helpful. Good info.
Staining is a quick and fast way to get there. After a few months you'll see the stock color change. My M1's have that red/brown/orange color . The flaxseed oil will do that. I've tried all methods and the flaxseed oil to me is the best finish.
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  #174  
Old 11-23-2018, 05:42 PM
Han Solo Han Solo is offline
 
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Great thread, so many options...

Quick questions: I have a CMP Special M1 in 30.06 that has the new stock with the standard brown finish. I don't mind the color but would like to add tung oil to the stock.

Q1: can I just at it to the wood as is or do I need to treat the wood before adding a few coats of tung oil?

Q2: do I need to remove all metal from the hand guards to do the job right or can I leave the metal (esp on the front hand guard) in place and still get a good finish? If removal is the best way, any good videos, photos of how to remove and reinstall the metal on the front hand guard?

Thanks for any advice.
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  #175  
Old 11-23-2018, 06:51 PM
eric_robin eric_robin is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Huntsville, AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Han Solo View Post
Q1: can I just at it to the wood as is or do I need to treat the wood before adding a few coats of tung oil?
Q2: do I need to remove all metal from the hand guards to do the job right or can I leave the metal (esp on the front hand guard) in place and still get a good finish? If removal is the best way, any good videos, photos of how to remove and reinstall the metal on the front hand guard?
Q1: I'd add some type of dye / stain before tung oiling to give you some color. I like an alcohol-based stain, more of a dye really. "Chestnut Ridge" is one I use, also a couple of Winchester pre-64 stock stains that have a little red in them to mimic the aged look of USGI. Minwax also makes a "Gunstock" stain... and you can mix your own with denatured alcohol and leather dye. (There's SO MUCH information on here, don't do anything until you've read everything!)

Q2: Yes, I'd take off the metal or at least tape it. Don't try to take off the metal on the rear handguard though unless you have the tool. Just cut some painter's tape to fit. Also, this might be controversial... but I'd round off some of the sharp edges on the stock that seem to be prone to chipping. Thinking mainly around the buttplate, but you can also hit the outer edges under the handguards. DON'T mess with the area under the receiver or trigger group.

These are my opinions only, there's many on here with vastly more experience than me! I'm a shooter, not a collector, so I'm looking more at function vs. "correctness."
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  #176  
Old 11-23-2018, 06:56 PM
skwchock skwchock is offline
 
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I wanted to do the same thing you did. Tung oil was recommended. I made the BIG mistake of taking out the trigger assembly to finish the staining. I put on 5 light coats of Tung oil..I used 0000 steel wool to buff the wood lightly (after the oil had dried for 24 hours). When I tried to reinsert the trigger guard assembly -- it would not fit properly and the trigger guard would not engage and lock. The wood had swollen a bit. I had to leave the stock in the HOT SUN for about a week to get the wood stock to dry out a bit so that I could get the trigger assembly to get back in. I like the tung oil finish, but I would not take out the trigger assembly.
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  #177  
Old 11-23-2018, 07:16 PM
Han Solo Han Solo is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 41
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Thanks for the replies.

I do have the proper tools for removing the band from the rear hand guard (purchased fro CMP), and I have the install tools for removing the metal from the front hand guard (purchased from Standard Parts LLC "GARAND FRT HANDGUARD LINER TOOL") but I'm apprehensive because I don't want to screw up the stock or the metal.

I've found a few videos online showing removal of most of the metal and it doesn't look like rocket surgery but I hate messing things up unnecessarily.

Just trying to determine if/how necessary it is to remove all the metal to get a good tung finish.

And, yes, I've read every page of this thread and it's great but info overload.
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  #178  
Old 11-23-2018, 07:21 PM
Ronwall Ronwall is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Green River Lake, Ky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Han Solo View Post
Great thread, so many options...

Quick questions: I have a CMP Special M1 in 30.06 that has the new stock with the standard brown finish. I don't mind the color but would like to add tung oil to the stock.

Q1: can I just at it to the wood as is or do I need to treat the wood before adding a few coats of tung oil?

Q2: do I need to remove all metal from the hand guards to do the job right or can I leave the metal (esp on the front hand guard) in place and still get a good finish? If removal is the best way, any good videos, photos of how to remove and reinstall the metal on the front hand guard?

Thanks for any advice.
I'm a fan of boiled linseed oil, never had a issue with wood swelling. I'd take off the rear handguard like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FbnaYSJrrE

The only thing I would not bother is the stock ferrule especially if it has a staked screw.
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  #179  
Old 11-23-2018, 07:38 PM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skwchock View Post
I wanted to do the same thing you did. Tung oil was recommended. I made the BIG mistake of taking out the trigger assembly to finish the staining. I put on 5 light coats of Tung oil..I used 0000 steel wool to buff the wood lightly (after the oil had dried for 24 hours). When I tried to reinsert the trigger guard assembly -- it would not fit properly and the trigger guard would not engage and lock. The wood had swollen a bit. I had to leave the stock in the HOT SUN for about a week to get the wood stock to dry out a bit so that I could get the trigger assembly to get back in. I like the tung oil finish, but I would not take out the trigger assembly.
Im doubtful tung oil did this. Unless you used one of the "tung oil finishes" and built up the finish on the surface.
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  #180  
Old 11-23-2018, 07:47 PM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Han Solo View Post
Thanks for the replies.

I do have the proper tools for removing the band from the rear hand guard (purchased fro CMP), and I have the install tools for removing the metal from the front hand guard (purchased from Standard Parts LLC "GARAND FRT HANDGUARD LINER TOOL") but I'm apprehensive because I don't want to screw up the stock or the metal.

I've found a few videos online showing removal of most of the metal and it doesn't look like rocket surgery but I hate messing things up unnecessarily.

Just trying to determine if/how necessary it is to remove all the metal to get a good tung finish.

And, yes, I've read every page of this thread and it's great but info overload.
Removing all the metal allows you to get at least a sealing coat of finish under the metal.
You have the tools, if its a new production stock theres less worry for damage value wise.
Do yourself a favor watch the videos, follow instructions and DOIT!
The wipe in/on finishes are easy to apply.
I like 100% pure tung oil for its ease of use. You can do a few coats now and come back to it at some other point in life.
Oil finish will bring out some of the wood tones. Not so much darker. Although there is a dark tung oil.
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/dark-tung/
Tung oil does not darken with age like linseed oil.

The real cool thing about the rubbed oil finishes is you can touch up scratches, apply a dress up coat any time you want.

I also like Tru oil , Minwax Tung oil finish , watco teak oil. These are easy to apply also but are a bit more glossy. Follow directions dont try to cheat. I did this a few years back and tried to be cute and left a heavier wet coat than i should have. Not to fear its pretty easy to fix wich i did. i wet sanded it and applied 2 coats per instructions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IO4jO1n3Bn0&t=42s

Last edited by mac1911; 11-23-2018 at 07:53 PM.
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