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  #11  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:56 PM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowHunt! View Post
What if it bottoms out between 12 and 3 o'clock. Then what? Can you safety tap it to 6 o'clock position?
No either of those positions would be to far to continue tightening. All you'd accomplish if you could get it to 6 would be to gall the barrel taper. As with most things if it doesn't fit you shouldn't force it. If it stopped at 12 you back it off to 6, if it stopped at 3 you could chamfer the tapered area inside the lock to get it closer to 6.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2015, 07:15 PM
musketjon musketjon is offline
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The front hand guard is not supposed to be tight any way. Clearance/slop is your friend, believe it or not.
Jon
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2015, 09:02 PM
Smf834 Smf834 is offline
 
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I have to admit i never learn how to fit the gas cylinder properly. I was lucky enough to receive various service grades, and the gas cylinders all seem to be snug, and i have clearance with the handguard. So i never bother to take it out (why mess with it if it's working).

Now i have a new rifle and i notice the gas cylinder lock doesn't lock the same as my other rifles. If i tighten the gas cylinder lock until it is flush with the barrel spline, the gas screw will be at 12 o clock, and the handguard will have zero clearance. If i loosen the gas lock half a turn back to 6 o clock, i have the perfect clearance between the handguard and the gas cylinder.

So how far back does the gas cylinder need to go? Does it need to be flush to the beginning of the barrel spline as indicated in this picture?

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/decxol34i...bXOjEMdMMXKv8a


Thanks so much!
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2015, 09:06 PM
ORN197 ORN197 is offline
 
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Without making this too overly complicated (it really isn't)...

Assuming all parts "in spec", the gas cylinder will wind up seated against the gas cylinder lock. That's how the cylinder's position on the barrel is set.

Put the gas cylinder on, all the way against the front handguard. Install the gas cylinder lock and turn CW until it bottoms out/stops on the barrel. If it's close to 6 o'clock... say, 5 o'clock as suggested by others... turn it to 6 (winner winner chicken dinner). If it's somewhere past 6... turn it back (CCW!) to 6.

Pull the gas cylinder up to the lock at this 6 o'clock position, install the gas screw, and have fun.

Last edited by ORN197; 01-09-2015 at 09:11 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2015, 02:59 AM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
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Location: Cobb, N California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ORN197 View Post
Without making this too overly complicated (it really isn't)...

Assuming all parts "in spec", the gas cylinder will wind up seated against the gas cylinder lock. That's how the cylinder's position on the barrel is set.

Put the gas cylinder on, all the way against the front handguard. Install the gas cylinder lock and turn CW until it bottoms out/stops on the barrel. If it's close to 6 o'clock... say, 5 o'clock as suggested by others... turn it to 6 (winner winner chicken dinner). If it's somewhere past 6... turn it back (CCW!) to 6.

Pull the gas cylinder up to the lock at this 6 o'clock position, install the gas screw, and have fun.

+1...perfect description of how it's done correctly.
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  #16  
Old 01-10-2015, 11:33 AM
Smf834 Smf834 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ORN197 View Post
Without making this too overly complicated (it really isn't)...

Assuming all parts "in spec", the gas cylinder will wind up seated against the gas cylinder lock. That's how the cylinder's position on the barrel is set.

Put the gas cylinder on, all the way against the front handguard. Install the gas cylinder lock and turn CW until it bottoms out/stops on the barrel. If it's close to 6 o'clock... say, 5 o'clock as suggested by others... turn it to 6 (winner winner chicken dinner). If it's somewhere past 6... turn it back (CCW!) to 6.

Pull the gas cylinder up to the lock at this 6 o'clock position, install the gas screw, and have fun.
Thanks. I am clear on screwing on the gas cylinder lock until it bottoms out on the front handguard. My lock goes past 6, and make flush with the barrel "taper?" at 12, with no front handguard movement.

https://carousel.dropbox.com/photos/cc/DN4W5kCYCJ9Fwa5

If i am reading correctly, i am to turn the gas cylinder lock ccw, therefore pulling the cylinder forward, till 6, Insert the gas lock screw?

Will accuracy improve if i find a lock that bottoms out at ~6? I assume in my case, i will have to further trim the front handguard to create clearance, correct?
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  #17  
Old 01-10-2015, 11:36 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smf834 View Post

Will accuracy improve if i find a lock that bottoms out at ~6? I assume in my case, i will have to further trim the front handguard to create clearance, correct?
Stop you are overthinking this. Read post #15
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2015, 11:40 AM
ORN197 ORN197 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smf834 View Post
Thanks. I am clear on screwing on the gas cylinder lock until it bottoms out on the front handguard. My lock goes past 6, and make flush with the barrel "taper?" at 12, with no front handguard movement.
No. Ignore the front handguard. It has nothing to do with the gas cylinder or lock. It's just sandwiched between to keep you from burning your hand on the barrel.

check your PM's...
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  #19  
Old 01-10-2015, 03:47 PM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
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Location: Cobb, N California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smf834 View Post
Thanks. I am clear on screwing on the gas cylinder lock until it bottoms out on the front handguard. My lock goes past 6, and make flush with the barrel "taper?" at 12, with no front handguard movement.

https://carousel.dropbox.com/photos/cc/DN4W5kCYCJ9Fwa5

If i am reading correctly, i am to turn the gas cylinder lock ccw, therefore pulling the cylinder forward, till 6, Insert the gas lock screw?

Will accuracy improve if i find a lock that bottoms out at ~6? I assume in my case, i will have to further trim the front handguard to create clearance, correct?
Jeese, none of that sounds right.

1) Your HG should provide the room for the lock to be tightened until it bottoms on the barrel taper. Ideally that should happen just before or just after 6 o'clock. Just after probably better since when you back it off to 6 and install the plug, the plug pulls the GC forward giving you slight clearance for the front HG.

2) The gas cylinder lock (are you mixed up on the nomenclature?) doesn't pull the gas cylinder anywhere. If anything it pushes the cylinder rearward as it's screwed on the barrel. It's not capable of pulling it since it screws on the barrel threads and lays flat against the front of the cylinder. It's not even attached to the cylinder.

3) As I mentioned before, ideally, the position of the gas cylinder, once the lock and the plug are in place, leaves a slight gap about the thickness of a credit card between the GC and the HG ferrule providing some slight play to minimize contact when the rifle heats up. Even if the lock stopped just short of 6 because it bottomed out on the HG ferrule you can tighten it to 6 (thus leaving no HG play) and generally the HG will loosen some after you've been to the range a few times and fired 100 rounds or so. Heat, expansion, contraction and compression of the wood often will correct it without you ever needing to trim anything. Trim it and you may end up with a sloppy HG that will hurt accuracy more than help it.

Last edited by lapriester; 01-10-2015 at 03:49 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-10-2015, 09:12 PM
Smf834 Smf834 is offline
 
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Ok, thanks to all for a detail lesson. I think i get a better handle on things now. Larry, yes, i mistyped the part names, i apologize. Your post makes sense to me now. I do appreciate several members reaching out to help me better understand how the parts work together.
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