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  #1  
Old 12-07-2009, 09:54 PM
Older Than Dirt Older Than Dirt is offline
 
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Question HXP primer pocket

Does the HXP primer pocket require reaming or swaging before repriming when reloading as other mil. ammo does? Thought I read an older post that said otherwise.
thanks for the help
Older Than Dirt
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  #2  
Old 12-07-2009, 10:25 PM
Dave Stitz Dave Stitz is offline
 
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Older
Since HXP only has 3 little stakes it does not need to be reamed or swaged like LC or others with a full crimp. But I always give the pocket a twist or two with a chamfer tool just be sure. Then if the primer pockect uniformer goes in to the bottom I know it's good to go.
Dave
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2009, 10:30 PM
terry_b terry_b is offline
 
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I've heard that to be a good reason for reloading HXP over LC. Ease of priming
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  #4  
Old 12-08-2009, 04:13 AM
Ericc Ericc is offline
 
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It's a good practice to do. I swage and normalize the pocket depth on my HXP brass. You only have to do it once.

Eric
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  #5  
Old 12-08-2009, 07:57 AM
ceresco ceresco is offline
 
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In a word--no. You can ignore the HXP stab crimps. Priming will go a little smoother if you choose to cut them out or swage the pocket. Additionally; I have never seen any need for primer pocket uniformers with one exception--some RP nickeled30-06 with approx. 30 loading cycles built up a heavy deposit that the usual primer pocket scrapers didn't remove. The flash hole uniforming gets done on some match loadings but I can't say whether it makes any significant difference. HXP is good brass--I do like to separate the two rim variations. Actually. I get rid of the later "NATO" cut HXP. No particular reason except uniformity. Good Shooting.....

Last edited by ceresco; 12-08-2009 at 08:03 AM.
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2009, 08:08 AM
schoolf schoolf is offline
 
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I ream mine( lightly by feel) using the inexpensive Lee tool. Be sure to get all of the fouling out. I have used finishing nails on some that were really bad. Also take the time to properly inspect each case.
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  #7  
Old 12-08-2009, 04:22 PM
sailorken sailorken is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schoolf View Post
I ream mine( lightly by feel) using the inexpensive Lee tool. Be sure to get all of the fouling out. I have used finishing nails on some that were really bad. Also take the time to properly inspect each case.
Doesn't the decapping tool take care of cleaning the flash hole enough?
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  #8  
Old 12-08-2009, 07:57 PM
schoolf schoolf is offline
 
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Not Really. Take some of your brass and a finishing nail or a dental pick and lightly scrape the inside of some primer pockets. After each one tap the case on a piece of white paper and you will see what I mean. Lee makes a pocket cleaner, one side of the tool is for small primers, the other side is for large, and they also make a pocket reamer, they are 2 different tools. You really need both. I think you can get both tools for about ten dollars from Midway minus shipping. I still use finishing nails along with the 2 tools to make sure I get the crud out. The reamer is only for removing the little tabs that are on the HXP brass .You will have to experiment a little with it to learn how to use it, dont ream them to much because it will cause your primers to be not seated tightly enough.. You should also tumble your brass. The case tumbler with walnut media does a really nice job of getting your brass clean enough so you can inspect it and cull the ones that are not usable. Take your time when reloading be thorough and enjoy it. I like reloading about as much as I like shooting.
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  #9  
Old 12-08-2009, 08:09 PM
schoolf schoolf is offline
 
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One big thing I left out was that I was talking about the primer pocket. If you dont get the crud out of the pocket, when you seat your next primer you may have your flash hole partly blocked by some of the crud which can and does cause hang fires or delayed fires especially if you are shooting reduced loads.

Last edited by schoolf; 12-08-2009 at 08:15 PM.
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  #10  
Old 12-08-2009, 11:29 PM
Soljerblue Soljerblue is offline
 
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When I first started reloading HXP, I also had heard you didn't need to ream the primer pockets as thoroughly as with LC. After having difficulty seating several primers in that first batch, I decided to ream thoroughly and be sure. I've had nary a problem with primer seating in HXP since. As for carbon/crud in the pocket, an RCBS large primer pocket brush cleans it out just fine with a few turns. No problem. I haven't the years experience of some here, but I recommend thoroughly reaming the primer pocket on ALL military brass, HXP, LC, whatever.
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