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  #21  
Old 09-07-2012, 03:55 PM
SConnor SConnor is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 83
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I'm keeping my eye out for a TRW barrel right now to keep it all one manufacturer. No rush though.
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  #22  
Old 09-07-2012, 10:21 PM
Ausserdog Ausserdog is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NE Illinois
Posts: 530
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The glue looks like construction adhesive. Try a heat gun and a wooden scraper to remove. If that doesn't work try paint stripper. If you wire wheel, use a metal scraper or sand you will wear through the parkerizing.
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2012, 10:12 AM
SConnor SConnor is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 83
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That's what I was worried about, I'll give those a shot.
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  #24  
Old 09-09-2012, 04:06 PM
B-3-6 B-3-6 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 331
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Friday afternoon there were several LEAD rebuild HRA service grade rifles. Two with ink stamps. One went home with me. A pleasant surprise.
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  #25  
Old 09-09-2012, 10:21 PM
binlookin binlookin is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ohio down on the OH-10 River
Posts: 123
Default goued up but plate:-)

You can try heating just the butt plate with a hair dryer.
Or if you have a weller soldering iron try concentrating the heat right around the lips of the door, especially on and around the hinge areas. If you are careful not to keep the heat too long in one place, neither of these will cause damage and usually will 'thaw' loose the most stubborn stuck screw, pin or hinge? I'v even gotten rusted screws loose with heat.
Hopfully you are not batteling some type of epoxy high temp glue?
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