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  #11  
Old 01-23-2017, 09:35 PM
Army MSG Army MSG is offline
 
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I think there should be a number or marking on the top flat portion of the gas cylinder. Mine had a serif number one on top and a number 7 on the flat portion of the bottom.
You should also really break the rifle down and look for a single number in the barrel channel for the stock. Also look for staking on the solid lower band pin and if it has been removed. The op rod catch having light finish and the hammer spring housing in the entire are also characteristics. The bolt should have an extra punch mark - probably toward the front of the bolt and then rear sight cover a punch that maybe looks like a z. There are a few good threads out there to read. Best of luck.

Last edited by Army MSG; 01-23-2017 at 09:45 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2017, 09:47 PM
NYrommel NYrommel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army MSG View Post
I looked at the flush nut. I am not sure about the edges of the pinion. Do they looked raised on the outside? The one I have and other photos are not raised with a little raised nipple in the middle. Just throwing that out there for discussion as I am not sure about that at all.
I think there should be a number or marking on the top flat portion of the gas cylinder. Mine had a serif number one on top and a number 7 on the flat portion of the bottom.
You should also really break the rifle down and look for a single number in the barrel channel for the stock. Also look for staking on the solid lower band pin and if it has been removed. The op rod catch having light finish and the hammer spring housing in the entire are also characteristics. The bolt should have an extra punch mark - probably toward the front of the bolt and then rear sight cover a punch that maybe looks like a z. There are a few good threads out there to read. Best of luck.

Thank you.
If you look at the pic of the open action the proof mark is struck on the forward action top. There is glare but I checked that myself.
As far as the flush nut, I think the glare and grease is possibly screwing up the depth perception but again I'll check again tomorrow.

If I buy it, I'll remove the grease and get better pictures
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:01 PM
Army MSG Army MSG is offline
 
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I removed the part about the flush nut because I wasn't sure at all. Unless you are getting a steal it seems like they should let you look inside. Depending on the price maybe you found a real bargain. I really should start looking in more local gun shops.
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:09 PM
NYrommel NYrommel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army MSG View Post
I removed the part about the flush nut because I wasn't sure at all. Unless you are getting a steal it seems like they should let you look inside. Depending on the price maybe you found a real bargain. I really should start looking in more local gun shops.
I know the owner well. It's getting broken down tomorrow. It's mine if I fully verify it but I'm pretty sure based on the outside being good and the age on the cosmoline. But I'll pull it apart tomorrow and post more pics.
He's at $3500.00 but he has room and I'll get it for less I do a lot of business there. Funny part he bought a collection with this in it and has no real milsurp customers. It was sitting in the back of his store for months as I researched it.
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  #15  
Old 01-24-2017, 05:11 AM
Army MSG Army MSG is offline
 
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You might have seen this already but good article written by Scott Duff. He covers the variation of red paint among other things.
www.americanrifleman.org/articles
The GCA also did an excellent article.

Last edited by Army MSG; 01-24-2017 at 05:22 AM.
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  #16  
Old 01-24-2017, 08:48 AM
krdomingue krdomingue is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Katy, TX
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Looks good to me. One thing you might look for is that the pin on the lower band on most lend leases are still staked. It doesn't mean anything if it isn't, but if it is, it is a good indication of its completeness. I wouldn't get to hung up on the color of the paint or the lack there of. The paint on most lend leases have worn off or was purposely removed by the owners. $3,500 sound high to me, but then again, the CMP is selling a bunch of late WWII rifles for $3,000.
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  #17  
Old 01-24-2017, 10:33 AM
NYrommel NYrommel is offline
 
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More pictures. I don't think this rifle was ever taken apart. The cosmoline had it stuck together ans I had to tap the action out gently. Looks good to me.

Photos were added to the original album link in post 1. Pics of trigger group, action, op rod, op rod guide in white, lower band staking

Lmk if anything looks funky but I pretty much own this rifle now. All looked good to me
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2017, 11:02 AM
warrantw5 warrantw5 is offline
 
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I still like it.
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2017, 11:06 AM
NYrommel NYrommel is offline
 
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Cartouche is good, as per another expert on this site.
Inside is all correct from all I've been told what to look for and outside is correct.

It's mine unless a huge red flag is pointed out, but this looks like a really nice piece with the red stripe and stencil intact. Pre pearl dated M1
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2017, 03:58 PM
Bad Gambler Bad Gambler is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wyoming
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I would email Ed49 before you make the purchase. He is dare I say an expert on LL garands. He helped me alot when I purchased my LL.

Is the follower assembly marked with an "8"? I can't see with the pictures. The housing looks to be "in the white". I can't tell on the op rod catch.

Everything else looks good to me with the pictures provided. I hope the stampings are real. Hopefully Rick B. gives you a thumbs up.

BoL.

Last edited by Bad Gambler; 01-24-2017 at 04:02 PM.
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