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  #11  
Old 07-13-2020, 06:33 AM
Random Guy Random Guy is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Virginia
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Scout, thanks, glad you find value in these posts. As for SEI, yes, they built the barreled action w/ the USGI trigger group as seen in this picture. I sent them the SAI receiver, bolt w/ internals, trigger group, HRA op rod (couldn't find an SEI op rod), a NM op rod guide, rear handguard and complete rear sight, etc. I had previously found the fiberglass stock from a Crazy Horse rifle built in 2007, w/ the tri-rail already installed (the owner had moved to a SAGE chassis), and the SEI mount/rings came off another rifle, but SEI prefers to build the whole rifle if possible.



I'll send you an email later today.

Last edited by Random Guy; 07-13-2020 at 07:14 AM.
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  #12  
Old 07-13-2020, 06:52 AM
nf1e nf1e is offline
 
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Very nice. I really like those scopes.
Current style Bula Defense Systems XM21 receivers with scope rails machined directly. Of Coarse the Leupold MK4 3.5 - 10. Built up with CMP A kits.

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Last edited by nf1e; 07-15-2020 at 04:39 AM.
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  #13  
Old 07-16-2020, 07:29 AM
M14 M14 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: south mississippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Random Guy View Post
Hopefully I can take it the range later this month and see how it performs.
Very nice build RG.

Only two things I noticed, but I wasn't critiquing it, they just jumped out at me. If you get to the range and don't get the groups you expect, try taking the ferrule off and shortening the stock tenon a bit and epoxy the ferrule back on.

The gap looks awful tight between the barrel band and the ferrule. May just be the picture though. As you probably already know from your experience, any contact or rubbing there will cause flyers.

I've noticed through the years that g.i. fiberglass stocks are all over the place in length dimensions in this area. It looks like there is some residue of prior epoxy dried in there, and a slight gap at the rear of the ferrule before it bottoms out on the stock lip. It may have come loose and just needs pushed back and glued.

Second thing is mainly a pet peeve of mine. I actually bought a special quick grip with rubber coated clamp ends to use for this. Depress the spindle valve, unless it is screw unitized, and drive the spindle valve pin up some more until it is even on both sides of the valve body.

If you try to turn your valve off clockwise to launch grenades with it like that, the end of the spindle valve pin will scratch your barrel band finish. Too nice of a rig for that to happen.

Well done! .....rip
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  #14  
Old 07-16-2020, 08:28 AM
Random Guy Random Guy is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Virginia
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Quote:
The gap looks awful tight between the barrel band and the ferrule. May just be the picture though. As you probably already know from your experience, any contact or rubbing there will cause flyers.

I've noticed through the years that g.i. fiberglass stocks are all over the place in length dimensions in this area. It looks like there is some residue of prior epoxy dried in there, and a slight gap at the rear of the ferrule before it bottoms out on the stock lip. It may have come loose and just needs pushed back and glued.
Thanks for that informative post, very observant. Yes, there is (edit: was - as I fixed it today) a small gap on the right side b/t the stock and the metal stock ferrule. When I got the stock the ferrule had been painted brown at some point, so I removed it and got a USGI replacement part (original style with 'half moon' detents). The greenish stuff was the original epoxy used to hold the two stock halves together, and the front ferrule as well. I suspect the old residual green expoxy prevented the ferrule from being fully seated, even though I wacked it with a rubber mallet a couple of times when I installed the new ferrule.

I have a question - as I want to make sure I understand what is being advocated.
Here's what the old NM build guide said about clearance b/t the face of the stock ferrule and front band (must be at least "1/64")



ON EDIT: I agree with your observation that the replacement stock ferrule was not seated deep enough on the right side of the stock, so I removed it, cleaned up that old epoxy, and filed about 0.5mm off the front tenon, and now that part fits flush up against the stock. I added some JB-Weld to hold it in place. (I was not able to adjust the pin in the spindle valve, but I didn't mess with it too much either). Here's what the relationship looks like now b/t the stock ferrule and front band (it now looks like a little bit more than the minimum 1/64" clearance, maybe 3/32?"):





Hopefully that additional clearance will prevent any contact. Thanks again for the tip(!). I knew there was something I needed to do before I tested this rifle at the range later this month...

As an aside, and its a bit voodoo to me, but I do note their is a decent amount of 'draw pressure' with this rifle, and while I know that is what you typically want on heavy wooden match stocks, and heavy McMillan fiberglass stocks as well, but I don't know what is 'ideal' when it comes to these old USGI fiberglass stocks - which are not very stiff on the forend.

Last edited by Random Guy; 07-16-2020 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Added new pics after re-installing stock ferrule in flush position.
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  #15  
Old 07-16-2020, 10:17 AM
MyTurn MyTurn is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Northern Detroit, Michigan, Suburbs
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Are copies of that build guide available anywhere?
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  #16  
Old 07-16-2020, 10:40 AM
Random Guy Random Guy is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Virginia
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There are lots of sources for the 1963-1967 National Match M14 build procedures, but if you want a neat poster that's about 2x3', this is nice source:

https://www.nicolausassociates.com/m14.htm

Poster
https://www.nicolausassociates.com/i...776-pixels.jpg

Item Name: Rifle, 7.62 MM, M14 National Match: Initial Specifications Poster
Price: $13.00


Here's a book to go with it:
Item Name: "USMC Technical Instruction, Match Condition Procedures, Rifle, 7.62MM, M14" & "National Guard MTU Accurizing the M14 Service Rifle"
Price: $15.00


...I'm not affiliated with that vendor, but I have purchased from them.

Last edited by Random Guy; 07-16-2020 at 01:08 PM.
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  #17  
Old 07-16-2020, 12:15 PM
MyTurn MyTurn is offline
 
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Location: Northern Detroit, Michigan, Suburbs
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Thank you!
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  #18  
Old 07-16-2020, 01:40 PM
nf1e nf1e is offline
 
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Location: Connecticut
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Thanks Random Guy very helpful.
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  #19  
Old 07-16-2020, 06:16 PM
M14 M14 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: south mississippi
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Yeah RG, that looks much better now. Good job. I think you will be ok with some heavy draw pressure ( akin to squeezing a tennis ball in your palm on about the 50th squeeze, hard, but doable) and it depends on barrel diameter as to how much is ideal.

The medium weights and heavies need much less draw than say, a g.i. profile one. The lighter fiberglass g.i. stocks will flex more in the fore end than a Mac or Big Red and will actually take a set in that position after a while.

I would say that all you need to do now is make sure you have some grease between the barrel band bottom lip and the bottom center of the ferrule. When the barrel starts it's star shaped whipping around on firing, the grease will help it settle right back into the same spot where the apex of both curves meet. That's the repeatability we all search for, for accuracy.

You may want to take a black sharpie and color all the sides and bottom in the stock fore end where the gas cylinder lives before firing. That way, when you get through shooting, and maybe caught a random flyer that wasn't called, you can take it apart when you get home and see if it has whipped around and knocked off some of the black. If it does, that's where you file it out or stone it for clearance so the gas cylinder doesn't rub the stock.

Again, well done on an excellent and beautiful build. Looking forward to your range results. I suspect they will be very good.
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