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  #1  
Old 08-21-2018, 02:30 PM
Joturkey Joturkey is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: WI
Posts: 697
Default Advice needed on linseed oiling maple stock set

I have a Tiger maple M1 set I am working on "will put up pics when done". Question, started with bare unstained wood, I am up to coat 6 of BLO now, followed SOP, but it has nowhere near the shine of a Walnut stock I did at 6 coats. is Maple softer or more pourous and requires more coats? or should I finish coat with something else to get a nice shine? I have let each coat dry 1-2 weeks in between, This wood has an awesome grain to it but at this point the BLO is just not making it POP after it dries. TIA for any advice.
Kent
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  #2  
Old 08-21-2018, 03:59 PM
gunny gunny is offline
 
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Location: North Bama
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Working curley maple on my muzzleloaders, I always stained the wood first and then used the BLO, tung oil, Tru-oil, etc. The stain (Birchwood CaseyColonial Red and various concoctions from Dixie Gunworks) is what makes the curl in the maple really pop. Don't know if the stain will take now with so many coats of BLO, but what you got to lose?
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  #3  
Old 08-21-2018, 05:42 PM
aimit aimit is offline
 
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Location: Northern California
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Maple is a lighter color and harder than walnut and probably wont soak up as much BLO as walnut, but that isn't the point anyway. The idea is not to end up with an oil soaked stock, but to get a little penetration into the wood and allow a small amount to cure on the surface as a sealer. To bring out the grain pattern, use dark brown shoe dye. Wipe it on with a small rag, right over the BLO that is on the stock now. One or two applications of BLO afterwards should get what you want.
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  #4  
Old 08-22-2018, 05:02 PM
Clark B Clark B is offline
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Indiana
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Curly maple should be stained or the beauty will never fully show up. Wipe some LMF Lancaster maple or nut brown stain on it before the oil and when the oil is applied you chin will hit the ground.
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  #5  
Old 09-11-2018, 09:18 AM
Joturkey Joturkey is offline
 
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Location: WI
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Thanks for the help, seems I was beyond the point where stain will penetrate. though prior to my buying this it was stained and stripped. I switched now to tung oil which is penetrating and darkening the wood to where it now looks stained. The tung oil is drying fast after applying, so one or 2 more coats for a good shine and done. Will post up pics when done.
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  #6  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:54 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
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It's not hard to remove the oil. Any water based degreaser (purple power, simple green, any of the knocks offs at dollar tree including the citrus stuff) will melt it right off.
Post some pics.
JH
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  #7  
Old 09-11-2018, 09:30 PM
69Shelby 69Shelby is online now
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
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I am also interested in pictures. I am getting ready to start working on a figure maple stock.
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  #8  
Old 09-12-2018, 09:10 AM
Joturkey Joturkey is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69Shelby View Post
I am also interested in pictures. I am getting ready to start working on a figure maple stock.
I will post a thread next week with the gun assembled, just have to add one more coat of oil. While I did not stain this stock, I think there was some residual stain deep down that now shows, which is good. The above comments are correct, to show the grain stain it. I saw this video that has some good pointers about maple staining. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NlNIJKLFtA

Last edited by Joturkey; 09-12-2018 at 09:13 AM.
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