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  #11  
Old 06-24-2014, 07:35 AM
FuryUs FuryUs is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: OKC
Posts: 537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pappasue View Post
I think that pile of parts is a funny picture. Whoever did that has a sense of humor.
Jim
Probably the same guy that says this during re-assembly:
"If we have been brave or foolhardy enough to have removed the Clip Ejector Spring then we must first put it back in place."
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  #12  
Old 06-24-2014, 07:42 AM
DetroitMan DetroitMan is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Force Man12 View Post
Thanks! I guess the next question is how often? Mine is straight out of the case from CMP, not fired yet.

I read in an article that if I field strip it too often it can hurt the accuracy of the gun. Is that true?
It is true. As one poster mentioned, you need to fire a few rounds after reassembly in order for the rifle to reseat properly in the stock. In addition to that, you are compressing the wood every time you release and reclose the trigger guard latch. Eventually the wood will permanently compress and the rifle fit will be too loose for consistent accuracy. At that point you either have to bed the action or replace the stock.

Given your screen name, I am going to guess that you are familiar with the M16 and its rigorous maintenance requirements. Rest assured that the M1 is different animal from a different era. As another poster mentioned, it is really only necessary to clean the bore, chamber, and bolt face after a range session. Make sure to put the rifle on its back when cleaning the bore so that cleaning solvents do not enter the gas system. You should also wipe the exposed metal surfaces with oil or CLP to prevent corrosion. The parkerized finish is designed to be porous and retain oil to prevent exposure to moisture. You need to work with that, not fight it. A silicone cloth is inadequate. A light coating of oil in the bore is a good idea for storage. The M1's bore is not chromed.

Field stripping should be infrequent. When you do strip it, remove all the grease and completely re-lubricate the internals. Use high quality grease and oil that will last a while and your M1 will be well protected between field stripping sessions.
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  #13  
Old 06-24-2014, 08:31 AM
normannewguy normannewguy is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DetroitMan View Post
It is true. As one poster mentioned, you need to fire a few rounds after reassembly in order for the rifle to reseat properly in the stock. In addition to that, you are compressing the wood every time you release and reclose the trigger guard latch. Eventually the wood will permanently compress and the rifle fit will be too loose for consistent accuracy. At that point you either have to bed the action or replace the stock.

Given your screen name, I am going to guess that you are familiar with the M16 and its rigorous maintenance requirements. Rest assured that the M1 is different animal from a different era. As another poster mentioned, it is really only necessary to clean the bore, chamber, and bolt face after a range session. Make sure to put the rifle on its back when cleaning the bore so that cleaning solvents do not enter the gas system. You should also wipe the exposed metal surfaces with oil or CLP to prevent corrosion. The parkerized finish is designed to be porous and retain oil to prevent exposure to moisture. You need to work with that, not fight it. A silicone cloth is inadequate. A light coating of oil in the bore is a good idea for storage. The M1's bore is not chromed.

Field stripping should be infrequent. When you do strip it, remove all the grease and completely re-lubricate the internals. Use high quality grease and oil that will last a while and your M1 will be well protected between field stripping sessions.
and the M16 or AR system is still being taught improperly by US military as I have an AR that has only had the bore and chamber swabbed out and has over 1,500 rounds through it with no malfunctions. I learned a trick in police carbine class for instructors on AR system. With rifle field stripped and bolt carrier and bolt out of the rifle. Take the bolt cam and firing pin out of the bolt carrier and cotter key. leaving the bolt in the bolt carrier grab the bolt and pick it up with the bolt carrier on it. Suspend it in the air for 20 seconds, if the bolt carrier doesn't slide off the bolt the gas rings are good to go. If it slides off the gas rings are worn and that causes most of the malfunctions in AR system. Replace gas rings and good to go. Military teaches that you hold onto bolt carrier and see if bolt slides out, by that time you have no gas rings. Also on AR lube bolt carrier area for gas rings with Mobil 1 0-20w synthetic oil. Higher flash point then CLP and has anti carbon additive.
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  #14  
Old 06-24-2014, 09:06 AM
TheDon TheDon is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Orlando,FL
Posts: 220
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I wouldn't open the gas system more than you need to.

After I shoot my garand I clean the barrel and oil it. Then after the third outing I field strip it, leaving the gas plug in place. I'll then clean and grease it up.

I do add grease to the bolt carrier every time I shoot so it's smooth as silk.
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  #15  
Old 06-24-2014, 10:47 AM
musketjon musketjon is offline
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No need to turn it upside down when you clean it. If some of the solvent gets into the gas cylinder, who cares? It will all get blown out on the first shot any way. Same reason the gas cylinder is not oiled.
Jon
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  #16  
Old 06-24-2014, 02:23 PM
PattonWasRight PattonWasRight is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: MO, Near the Arch
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One thing I’ll add, not mentioned so much here, but works for me … get a scotch brite type pad and smooth the interior of your clips, as well as the ridge on the outside of the clip, at the rear. Then rub in a very light coating of CLP / gun oil on the interior of the clip. This will help the clip load in a bit more smoothly, as well as help with feeding rounds due to the reduced friction.
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  #17  
Old 06-26-2014, 12:34 AM
Air Force Man12 Air Force Man12 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 16
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Hey all,

Thanks for the info so far! So I took the stock off to add a butt stock sleeve for clips and just to see a bit of how this does to clean it anyway.

Taking this thing apart is hard... The trigger group took way more strength to open it than I figured it would and the rifle is very stiff. Its a CMP Special so I'm assuming it is so because its new.

On top of that, I closed the trigger guard before putting it into the stock and can't re open it... (how screwed am I...)

Anyway, needless to day I'm working up a sweat just to get to the damn thing. Am I doing it wrong? Can I get the trigger guard to unhook so I can insert it in the stock? (working that theory now..)

Thanks for the help so far, but she is being a pill. At least right now.
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  #18  
Old 06-26-2014, 12:37 AM
SouthSideScubaSteve SouthSideScubaSteve is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SW suburbs of Chicago (IL)
Posts: 525
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My Garand is a 308SPECAIL which I had bedded at the Custom shop; so I've only broken it down once and don't plan to do so again until it get's too cold to shoot in the fall.

Being a bit OCD, I printed the Garand Gear instructions (screen shot'ed it to PDF) and then used it to supplement the instructions on the CMP site as I went through them using my laptop ....

The only thing I didn't do was remove the gas cylinder; my thinking was that it was just refinished, assembled and test fired; if it was functional when it left CMP, there not much that could have occurred to change that in the interim. Plus it's really tight with no play at all on the splines!
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Last edited by SouthSideScubaSteve; 06-26-2014 at 12:54 AM. Reason: hit enter before I was done
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  #19  
Old 06-26-2014, 01:01 AM
Air Force Man12 Air Force Man12 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 16
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Yea, mine should work just fine... I literally did the first two steps of the field strip simply so I could add the pouch to the buttstock.

It took way too much work to pull the trigger guard back and up like depicted to open the damn thing, I attached the stock to the rest of the rifle and now in the process of inputting the trigger group and locking it down.

It looks like it all fits right, and like I said, literally did not screw with anything else. And its a beast to clamp the trigger guard down.... I still haven't managed it yet.

I think I'm gonna call it a night soon because I am beyond tired from work today, but should it be this hard?! Either I royally screwed it, or its simply just really stiff because the thing looks like it was made in a factory like yesterday.

Guidance or advice would be helpful. Thanks.
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  #20  
Old 06-26-2014, 06:56 AM
tarheelxd tarheelxd is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 39
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I had to use a hammer to get my trigger guard closed . If you have a rubber mallet , whack it with that to close it . I placed a folded up hand towel on the trigger guard and hit it with the hammer . Don't be afraid to smack it ; you're not going to hurt it .
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