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  #11  
Old 11-09-2019, 12:30 PM
meplat meplat is offline
 
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Location: Prescott, AZ
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RLO will get gummy if applied too thick, just as BLO will. Reaction with atmospheric oxygen is what "dries" it.

The only difference between BLO and RLO is the presence of metal-based driers which are incorporated into BLO to accelerate the reaction of the flaxseed oil with air.

With correct application, the end result, after a long time, is the same. Except for perhaps the presence of a few cobalt atoms in the BLO treated wood.

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  #12  
Old 11-09-2019, 04:16 PM
309Carbine 309Carbine is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: South Mississippi
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I have used RLO and have applied it in a hurry not letting it cure between coats and not thinning it either. The good news is that it cured very well and the M14 stock turned out beautiful....just took a couple of months to get there.
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2019, 04:41 PM
6 Ring 6 Ring is offline
 
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Location: South of Atlanta, Ga
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The trick using RLO is to thin it a little 25 to 50% with gum turpentine. This makes it easier to rub on and wipe off. You have to wipe off hard. When you put another application of RLO on months or years latter, the new oil can soften the old oil where the dirt is and it can be removed with a lot of rubbing.
This is unheard of using other finishes.
I put on a 50-50 coat, wipe it off, wait maybe thirty minutes and put the metal back on. You are ready to go.
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2019, 07:52 PM
.Steve. .Steve. is offline
 
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My Orest era monograph still exists.

http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armo...aning-article/

Somewhere in there, I mention MinWax stains are a thinned VARNISH. Nice stains, but the first time you use them, the oil products are unlikely to penetrate.

You gotta understand ALL the components and how they interact. Or fail to.

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  #15  
Old 11-10-2019, 10:07 AM
TSimonetti TSimonetti is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 4,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6 Ring View Post
The trick using RLO is to thin it a little 25 to 50% with gum turpentine. This makes it easier to rub on and wipe off. You have to wipe off hard. When you put another application of RLO on months or years latter, the new oil can soften the old oil where the dirt is and it can be removed with a lot of rubbing.
This is unheard of using other finishes.
I put on a 50-50 coat, wipe it off, wait maybe thirty minutes and put the metal back on. You are ready to go.
I've never had a problem wiping on, or wiping off pure RLO. It is very thin to begin with and the wood just sucks it up without the turpentine in my experience. wiping off is super easy even if I forget about it overnight. I'm curious what difference it is cut with turpentine so I'll have to give it a try on my next stock.
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  #16  
Old 11-10-2019, 11:51 AM
6 Ring 6 Ring is offline
 
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Location: South of Atlanta, Ga
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Tony,
It goes on thinner and soaks right up. Very little to wipe off. If an area kinda gets a dry look fast, I add more there.
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  #17  
Old 11-14-2019, 10:26 PM
kmad2001 kmad2001 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nashville, TN
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Connie doesn't look happy about being told what's what.
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  #18  
Old 11-15-2019, 08:07 AM
vagrant vagrant is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 553
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I've only used BLO when it's mixed with turpentine. The RLO I've never cut with it. I'm going to try Tung oil eventually.
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  #19  
Old 11-15-2019, 08:08 AM
deldriver deldriver is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Powell, Tennessee
Posts: 1,214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmad2001 View Post
Connie doesn't look happy about being told what's what.
What woman does?
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  #20  
Old 11-28-2019, 10:05 AM
xm15e2s xm15e2s is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: AZ
Posts: 692
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As I said before.....

I am very happy with food grade Flakseed oil sold at GNC stores.

Easy to find locally. Equal to linseed in every way because it is linseed oil.

I love the stuff.
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