Reloading Presses

[john17427]

I got into reloading because the ammo for my rifle was rare and expensive if you could find it at all. Like someone said though, reloading is addictive and now I do it for most of the calibers I shoot. I have a big boss 2 single stage and like it. I prime using RCBS hand primers and I always seat and crimp in separate steps even if using the same die. Crimping is important to me for some calibers as I load for lever actions and experience with big straight wall cases has made me a fan of the factory crimp dies. Like others have said though, I’ve found that there is little or no need for crimping in most other situations.

[oldwxman]

Let me ask this another way: I'm looking at an HXP round and see that the bullet has a cannelure with the case mouth crimped onto it.

1) How do I replicate this?
2) Does the Hornady (or any other mfr's) seating die do this, or do I need a totally separate device (die) to do it?
3) If a separate device (die) is required, is the Lee Factory Crimp Die the only thing on the market that does this?

Again, I'm trying to replicate the neck crimp I see on HXP, so how do I do it?

Like others, I don't crimp my 30-06 ammo. My crimping so far has been confined to handgun ammo. But I've found that I have more control over the depth and location of the crimp if I use a die specifically designed to crimp as opposed to using a die that seats and crimps. Lee crimping dies are fairly inexpensive.

Jerry

[WindLogik]

Here is a list of the typical reasons most handloaders would crimp. Keep in mind, that with handloading, you can make something better than what you could buy. This is the blessing of the hobby!

Reasons to crimp:

• Round to be used for a fully automatic (not typical for most)
• Revolver rounds, crimp braces recoil
• Lever gun rounds, crimp braces recoil
• Bolt action hunting rounds, (crimp braces recoil, rounds could be rough handled while hunting)
• Pistol rounds for Bulls Eye Pistol (heavy crimp is necessary for accuracy with lead bullets and light loads)
• Pistol rounds (taper crimp is used to reform mouth from belling)

I think this is a pretty complete list, others chime in. Unless you are doing these things, crimping really isn't a help.

[Polaris]

I think this is a pretty complete list, others chime in. Unless you are doing these things, crimping really isn't a help.

I have heard from other shooters of specifically the Lee "factory crimp" die applied in moderation improving the consistency and accuracy. This information was specific to vintage military bolt rifles with long freebore, worn throats, oversize chambers or all of the above. I only own a LFCD in one caliber, 7.62X54r, that does have a long freebore, but have been unable to notice any difference crimp vs. not with my Vintage Sniper loads. I do crimp 174gr RN camp/hunting ammo for the "rough handling" reason stated above, otherwise the LFCD stays in the box now.

[[email protected]]

I use a single stage for my rifle loads; an old RCBS Junior. I only use a progressive for pistol loads.
You can't go wrong with either RCBS or Hornady. I know from past experience that the RCBS customer service is really good.

Another alternative is a turret press. This gives you more options.

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[sigman2]

You can't go wrong with RCBS, especially the Rockchucker. Look for a used one in good condition. RCBS has a lifetime warranty.

I agree with most on the subject or crimping. I don't crimp any bottleneck cartridges with jacketed bullets except for lever actions. I do crimp my bottleneck cast loads and all revolver loads. I use just enough crimp on jacketed pistol loads to remove any flare.

[Slapshot]

I have heard from other shooters of specifically the Lee "factory crimp" die applied in moderation improving the consistency and accuracy. This information was specific to vintage military bolt rifles with long freebore, worn throats, oversize chambers or all of the above. I only own a LFCD in one caliber, 7.62X54r, that does have a long freebore, but have been unable to notice any difference crimp vs. not with my Vintage Sniper loads. I do crimp 174gr RN camp/hunting ammo for the "rough handling" reason stated above, otherwise the LFCD stays in the box now.

One of the guys I shoot with locally won the Sniper Match at Perry a couple of years ago with a 7.62x54 Finnish Nagant and a repro scope. He tested the heck out of everything before the match and decided that crimping his rounds was the way to go. I was in the pits pulling his target when he easily shot a clean at 600 yds. Crimping obviously worked with that rifle, but in most cases probably isn't necessary.
No, I don't know what reloading press or type of die he used (just to stay on topic).

[mac1911]

Depending on,amount you shoot and how much time you have to reload will dictate your press choices.
I,still single load 90% of my rifle loads. I have lots of time to reload between trips and I don't generally shoot a lot of my "mil surp" loading.
I bought a pro 1000 for my bulk 223 and 30 carbine loading.
I have the hornady single stage , started with a basic 505 scale rcbs crank trimmer and what ever came in the hornady single stage press kit.

[[email protected]]

I agree with crimping hunting ammo. Trying to reduce the chances of Murphy kicking you in the rear is a good thing. The critter won't notice the slight decrease in accuracy that may result. I've heard people say the lee FCD helps accuracy and others say it hurts accuracy. Guess you have to try and see for yourself. I'm not good enough to notice any difference either way.

There are two types of crimps: taper and rolled. If the bullet has a cannelure you can roll crimp on it. If it doesn't, you can only taper crimp. Mist of my shooting is at targets so accuracy is paramount. Therefore, I don't crimp. When I hunt I still don't crimp unless I'm shooting my 300 Wby magnum. There I use a light taper crimp.

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[.22shooter]

Get a progressive. You can still use it in a single stage fashion. Then if you decide to load pistol or bulk rifle you can go full progressive. You don't have that kind of flexibility with a single stage.

I have both and started with a single stage. Haven't used the single stage in awhile.

Bill

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[Smal]

I have been reloading for many years nd a couple things I can tell you,Lee Presses for the money a very good deal not the top end press but if your just reloading to target shoot for fun there a great buy for the Money I have had a Challenger anniversary kit I bought id bet 30 years ago the linkage finally broke I called them they said that press is so old its not being produced in that model but send it in and for half the cost they will fix or replace it,So I did,Got my press back all new upgraded updated linkage etc and a no charge note on it, Cant beat that for service and standing behind there product,

Now my Lyman over $300.00 press when I bought it new a few years back the T-Mag model is a total piece of crap , Made of powdered pot metal crap the frame is and how I know is the thing after the first 3 times using it pieces of the frame started breaking off,1 year warranty then you own it,I reload about twice a year doing all my calibers at once so I got 3 uses out of it before it broke to a point I can not use it safely,,Stick with the Lee took 30 years to break the linkage and the frame is still going strong on my classic single stage and there very reasonable priced.I also have the Pro 1000 lee auto and another model.

[m1ashooter]

I'd love to have a Dillon but can't afford one. My single stage Lee press is over 30 years old. I use the Lee trimmers that I put in a drill, a RCBS measure and a Hornady scale.