What it takes to be competitive, part II - equipment

[M1Jeff]

Hey Greg, how about an overview of that Camel Back pit bag you mentioned? Half of our day is in the pits...

[Greg Ficklin]

A lot of people in the XTC game never pull targets in the pits until they get to a full course event like EIC leg matches, Eastern Games, or Nationals. It only takes one day in the pits to see that some are more prepared, and comfortable while they are down there. The goal is to be prepared and comfortable while enduring the work. I have to admit that I am often less fortified than most who have bag lunches, nabs, "standups", and Gatorade in the pits. Having a pit bag with a smorgasbord of pougey bait, safety glasses, extra hearing protection, a length of rope or strap to aid in pulling the frame, and a chair can make the experience a lot more pleasurable. I am often amazed at what people bring to the pits. The type of personality that makes lists of items they may possibly need like a mini camping trip far from civilization, and the minimalist are the two extremes. My attempt at trying to be like the others led me to getting a Camel Back knock-off from a gun show. These back packs entered military service long after I was gone, replacing the canteen and cup from days gone by. They hold more water than you care to drink in half a day, and keep it cool too.
It's like a man purse with a straw. Every trip to the pits gives you an idea of something you wish you had thought of. When you see what others have pulled out when the range is shut down because of a boat in the impact area, you get a little jealous saying to yourself "Man those standups sure look good".

[Greg Ficklin]

Hey gang,
It's been a while since my last installment. I thought I had pretty much covered all I wanted to say to get people going, but a personal IM on a rifle purchase question has me wanting cover something I had left out.
The subject of triggers.

Next to ammo, and the new scope debates, the choice of triggers is way high on the list as the most important modification you can make on your competition rigs. To know what we need in our triggers we must first know the rules; What they say, and sometimes just as important, what they don't say.
Weather it's the "as issued" games matches, or full blown XTC Service Rifle, when it comes to M1's, or AR-15's the rule is that they must pick up no less than 4.5#. They don't need to elaborate anymore on it, and for our sakes, we are glad they don't. A trigger job isn't considered a NM modification when it comes to "as issued" M1's so long as you have USGI parts. Brand new Garands like the CMP specials, or trigger groups made from in the wrap N.O.S. parts can be terrible when it comes to total weight needed to get the shot out in standing Now if you remember my post on the standing position, second stage trigger weight is the same as time. Enough time to turn blue, lose focus with your eyes, and lose that great sight picture before the hammer finally falls, or be so hard that you push shots to make them go. No other characteristic of your competition rifle has more effect on your standing scores, and potential than the trigger.
The M1 Trigger: While I'm not going to describe how to do a trigger job in detail, I do want you to look at your triggers, weigh them, and know how they work. It is a testament to the genius of J.C. Garand, and is still the same mechanics used in the AR-15 triggers used today from RRA, Armalite, and Geissele. More on the Geissele later.
Reducing sear engagement is the key to reducing second stage weight in the Garand. This is done by increasing the distance the trigger moves in the first stage before a definite "stop". This has to be done by stoning the hammer hooks making them slightly shorter. Apart from making the M1 trigger slick and not gritty by polishing and lubing moving parts, there nothing else you can do, and should be done by qualified M1 trigger gurus. You could study up on it yourself, and become one, but my advise to you is to not try to get down to the magic 4.5 minimum. The M1 recoils a lot, and you need a little bit of creep to keep it from doubling. You don't have to necessarily feel it, but it has to be there
So what is "creep" anyway ? Well it is nothing more than second stage movement before the hammer falls. or excessive sear engagement.It has nothing to do with the first stage, and I cringe when I hear someone say they have creep in their first stage. The first stage can be gritty, it can feel like a gravel road, but it can't have creep. Some guns are notorious for creepy triggers. The 1903 Springfield, and US model 1917 come to mind, as well as cheap spring piston airguns, and the Daisy Red Ryder. But the Red Ryder's creep is more like a long roll, and very satisfying. I will add that a "roll" is creep. It's often desired by pistol shooters, and some riflemen when the M1/M14 was king. Roll is desirable, or acceptable creep.
Next we have Over Travel. OT is trigger movement after the hammer has released. It is often associated with small-bore, and match rifles, and not so much with service rifles. We just aren't so concerned with it because all military rifle have gobs of it, and we think it's just normal. Shoot a Remington 40X rim fire, and you will know what no OT feels like. It feels weird because the trigger seems like it doesn't move at all.
Now that we have the terminology, and language of trigger talk out of the way, you can now tell your trigger guru exactly what you want your trigger to do, which brings me to the Geissele. Geissele makes lots of triggers, but the one we want to use is the Hi-Speed National Match - Service Rifle Trigger. These things are the bees knees, and the gold standard that has been proven by the USMC rifle team, AMU, and too many national records to list. Their customer service is beyond reproach, and have the reputation of replacing any trigger that eventually breaks, even after tens of thousands of rounds fired. In our game they just don't get any better than Geissele Automatics.
So what makes them so great ? Remember the rules, and what they didn't say? They didn't say where the weight has to be, only that it has to pick up a minimum of 4.5#. This is the key, and what makes the SR trigger a SR trigger. The basic mechanics is just like the M1, but Geissele allows you to be a trigger guru armed with little Allen wrenches that adjust sear engagement independently from second stage weight, and a first stage that is a super smooth 3 to 4 pounds. This allows the second stage to be crisp and light 2# and under. In short it allows you to shoot a light trigger that still makes weight for service rifle because most of it is free on the front end ! The springy first stage doesn't add time to the shot so we don't care how heavy it is. It makes the rules, and leaves us with the sweet potential to clean the standing slow fire stage. The point/dollar potential, forever service life, lifetime replacement if it ever breaks, makes them worth every penny.

[mr.tickle]

The sling

Before we get into the positions we have to look at the sling an how to use it.
Why do we use a sling? What kind of sling? How to put it on correctly. I'll answer these, and put some pictures to make it as clear as possible because the sling is your best friend.

The sling has two purposes, well really three, but for now it's two.
1) Provides maximum stability for the rifle in firing.
2) Instills confidence in the shooter.

The military learned long ago that to be effective in combat shooting, one must first be competent in fundamental marksmanship, and fundamental marksmanship starts with correctly using the sling.
There are lots of different slings, but for this discussion we will only cover the two types that are usually found on service rifles; The 1907 style loop sling, and the web sling.
I recommend the 1907 style leather sling made by Ron Brown, Les Tam, John Weller, or Turner slings. All of these are made with top quality leather that will last a long time. Use a sling that is 54" long.

The 1907 sling has a long piece with a "dog" or "frog" riveted to the end, two keepers, and a short side that has a D ring and another "dog" or "frog". The leather can be up to 1-1/4 inches wide, and up to 3/16 inch thick per the rulebook. It can have no more than two keepers.

How much of a detriment am I in if have a USGI web sling? I had gotten it because of cost but would eventually like to save up for 1907 sling.

[Craftsman]

How much of a detriment am I in if have a USGI web sling? I had gotten it because of cost but would eventually like to save up for 1907 sling.

If you are fortunate enough someday to be in one of Mr. Gary Anderson's CMP/GSM clinics, he will be instructing you on how to use the GI web sling, not the 1907 leather sling. Nothing wrong with a web sling, especially when starting out, they're easy to get in and out of and adjust, and they do the job of helping support the rifle with your bones just fine. I used a NOS 1950's USGI web sling the first couple of years when I began shooting in Garand matches. Today I do prefer a Ron Brown leather sling, but I'd still use a web sling if need be, or to mix things up a bit!

[missilegeek]

How much of a detriment am I in if have a USGI web sling? I had gotten it because of cost but would eventually like to save up for 1907 sling.

A cotton M1 sling is perfectly fine.

[ceresco]

As generally configured: the web sling tightens around your upper arm compressing the brachial artery and resulting in an annoying pulse--for some shooters. A properly configured 1907 sling does not tighten beyond the initial setting and has a "vee" gap that relieves pressure at the critical area. I went to a leather 1907 many years ago after initially using the web sling and never looked back. Your choice... Good Shooting. ...

[Rootsy]

When the web sling pulls from the inside of the arm it creates a tourniquette. When set up to pull from the outside it won't. From the outside is how Gary Anderson teaches also and how I teach deploying. I know a number of distinguished riflemen / NRA master & high master shooters who use a web sling.

I always keep one or two in my stool and or gun case. I use one on the AR for standing and have no issue using one in any other position if I need.

[Greg Ficklin]

That is correct. Using a web sling with the tension going over the arm instead of from under the arm will not have the tourniquet affect as bad. A bouncing pulse rarely if ever comes from the arm in prone, but from the abdomen. The same is true for sitting. Wearing pants with a loose fitting waist, or unbuttoned trousers will reduce a bouncing pulse.
The choice of sling is just a preference. I prefer the leather, but I concede that many accomplished marksmen make good use of the web sling.

[Greg Ficklin]

No sticky thread about equipment would be complete without mentioning the rifles themselves. Most shooters start with an M1 from the CMP from one of the the grades available. I recommend a service grade, or CMP Specials for the matches, but the field and rack grade rifles can also perform very well if the stock is tight. Before the games matches were started by the CMP, it was common for most M1's, used in any competition, to be "glass bedded". Glass bedding is really a bit of hold over terminology from the days when fiberglass resin was used to return a stock back to proper fitment, but today two part epoxies are better. As stocks compress, and trunion bosses wear, armorers would stretch the service life of GI stocks by means of bedding, or adding shims. National Match team rifles were always glass bedded to improve longevity, and consistency over a whole season or more without replacing the stock. The truth is, glass bedding really just restores a rifle to the performance level expected from a well fitted new stock. I used to think of glass bedding as an accuracy enhancement, but it really isn't. The CMP rules do not allow it because of the perception of all rifles not being equal. The good news is your rack or service grade with a brand new stock will perform as well as any glass bedded rifle at 200 yards. The as issued scores of 290+ fired at Perry prove it. In the game of as issued JCG matches, the only thing that matters is that the rifle shoots as well as it can within the rules. That means that no part is sacred, or exempt from replacement for the sake of originality, or collector value. Very few people into this have only one Garand. I have limited myself to three. One is a WWII Winchester from the old DCM that remains a safe queen. One is my post war H&R Service Special for the JCG matches, and last is my .308 three lug Unlimited WWII Springfield built by Clint Fowler. They all have a specific job. You need at least one Garand that has the job of shooting matches, and winning. You can't be squeemish about replacing a barrel every 4000 rounds, or replacing the wood or any other part as needed to perform "as new". There is no recognition, or special consideration for using a rifle that is not as good as it can be for the sake of sentimental attachment to all "correct" parts. There is a legitimate place for this in collecting rifles, and many will use their 4 or 5 digit collector grade guns in the matches, but just like there is no crying in baseball, there is no crying at the range. You run the risk of not having a gun that performs as well as it could, or damaging it from rain and heavy use. keep a safe queen for taking pictures, and hunting parts if that interests you, but for the matches, have an M1 that gets you where you want to go with your shooting too.

[Greg Ficklin]

I'm going down the list of GSM rifles to encourage all of you to experience everything the CMP Games matches have to offer. The whole ball of wax is the aggregates of 3 gun, and now 4 gun with the addition of the Modern Military rifles. In my opinion , it's the best reason (ahem...excuse) to buy more interesting old rifles, and give them a real job to do again. Get the whole set and help a new shooter by loaning a gun so they can get in the agg too.
You need a Springfield! It can be either a 1903, or 1903A3. The 1903 rifles must have a serial number over 800,000 for Springfield Armory rifles, and above 285,507 for Rock Island rifles. Anything below these numbers are "low number" rifles and are not permitted. No point in debating it. It's just the rules.
The big question is which one is best ? As far as accuracy goes, they are the same provided they have good barrels, and the stocks fit correctly. One indicator of a correctly fitted stock is to look at the receiver tang. It should be below flush behind the receiver, and have a small gap between the tang and the wood. If you have a Springfield that doesn't shoot well, it's probably the stock fit causing it.
I have seen more exploded spindles in the pits from Springfield's than any other rifle. With that being said, each time I have witnessed such amazing accuracy it is usually from an 03A3.
While the 1903 can be more precise with sight changes in elevation (only with a sight micrometer), the A3 is more precise with windage. The fact that the rear sight of the A3 is at the rear of the receiver, closer to the eye, is an advantage for the A3. No matter which one you have, I highly recommend the USMC.100 wide front sight. The super skinny standard front sight, often rounded from decades of leaning in a corner, is not conducive to front sight focus critical for high scores.
Saving rounds in the rapid string is the most common reason for not making the medal cut with the Springfield. You really have to spend time with it and practice, or you won't be ready. The critical part is the bolt lift on a spent round, and the reload from a stripper clip. Using a lighter spring in the bolt will help a lot, and get some stainless steel strippers with the flat spring that are more slippery with clean shiny ammo. Don't use brass that's been beat up from the Garand because irregularities in the rim will cause ammo to stick in the stripper. Inspect rapid fire ammo to make sure the rims are free of dents and burs, and always remember to flip the magazine switch to "on" when you hear the command "Is the line ready ?" To place in the 3 gun aggregate, you must master the Springfield. People that do can take pride, and honor the fighting men that used them to win WWI, and WWII. You can't go wrong by getting an 03A3 from Creedmoor Sports. I witnessed Dennis DeMille set the record of 297 with one of them.

[ceresco]

Small point Greg, but RI 1903 # 386,507 is legal (I don't think l have that one) and some brainac at CMP decided that we weren't being adequately protected, so SA 1903s between 800,000 and 810,000 are (also) not legal......I do have at least one in that range. Would also mention that O3A3s have a couple common problems with rear sights sliding down under recoil and lacking solid windage "clicks". Match rifles should be checked for these issues. The front sight blade should be squared up with a file to repair damage and can be filed down (or changed) to utilize the finer clicks near the bottom of the yardage scale. Good Shooting. ...