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  #11  
Old 04-24-2013, 03:54 AM
cal50 cal50 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 102
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The final steps and now my bedding project is complete. I wrapped up the remaining "to do" things to complete the stock. My front sling attachment in now in place as well as the remaining stock hardware. I used stainless steel socket head cap screws and 5/16 (.312) Key stock for retaining them. Its a simple job to mill a 5/16" slot in the stock. The key stock has two tapped holes that the screws attach to.

Its secure and can be easily removed if needed.

Screws-





Inside the stock attachment-







This will be a competition gun and a slippery butt stock is a bad thing. I used the spray stick crap and its more of a dirt collector IMHO. I went to Lowes and picked up a roll of adhesive backed traction tape. You have a LOT in one roll but it's durable and leaves no crap on your gun if removed. Trim to size with scissors then peel and stick.

From Lowes-





On the butt-




The stock is done-

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  #12  
Old 04-24-2013, 03:55 AM
cal50 cal50 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 102
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Here are some final shots of my bedding. I had extra Devcon mixed up and I like to "paint" the exposed fiberglass stock areas for a uniform appearance.














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  #13  
Old 04-24-2013, 03:56 AM
cal50 cal50 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 102
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This wraps up the stock hardware and the stock is ready for the action. I thoroughly cleaned and greased my new rifle. I greased the bolt roller and all areas that are supposed to be including the stock / ferrule contact point. Once lubed up I placed the action in the stock, torqued the rear lug screw and put the trigger group in place. The trigger group was already stripped, cleaned and lubed prior.The upper handguard was too long and touching the face of the receiver (bad). There was clearance everywhere else so I was good there. I use dial calipers and scribe a line around the rear lip of the handguard. This gives you a reference line to go by. Its a 20 second job on a belt sander. Sand until you hit the line, deburr and you are done.

Touches receiver = Bad




Scribe a line-




Line-







I am not a huge fan of the brown color handguard so I hit it with some green Fusion paint I had. I am not a huge fan of the green either.....but it works and fits now. I put a dab of RTV silicon on the front and rear tabs to retain the handguard so it stays put. This keeps it from contacting the receiver or moving around.

RTV~




Dab in Front-




Some in the rear~





Handguard now clears receiver = Good

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  #14  
Old 04-24-2013, 03:56 AM
cal50 cal50 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 102
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The final item with a USGI NM flash hider with lug ( I hate the neutered ones)





The twins~





This was an overview of what you can expect "to do" if you bed your own stock or contract it out and have it done for you.


A few thing's I learned along the way~

When test fitting your stock and action BEFORE bedding test for mechanical function. I mean make sure when cycling the op rod and action that the hammer cocks and drops properly. I only tested for proper trigger group lock up and alignment of the action prior to bedding. What I learned after bedding it was the deck height was slightly long. When you pull the trigger the hammer drops BUT if you hold back on the trigger and cycle the action the hammer followed the bolt when it locked up. It would cycle fine if you pulled the trigger, released it then cycle the op rod.

I milled .025 off of the trigger group seating area and the problem is now solved. This was a new gun from a wood stock that was never fired. I should have measured the bedding deck to trigger group length and jotted it down. I am at 1.705" and function correctly.


I like the coat hanger bedding method a LOT. Using the wire I mentioned I have what I would call a moderate amount of draw pressure. Not really heavy and not really light.

Drilling the thru hole for the rear lug pillar / bolt is best done from the top AND bottom directions of the stock. I added clearance but drilled from one side only ( bottom ).

I love working with Devcon 10110 steel putty, its by far the best compound I have ever used and seems to hold up very well.

Bedding the M1A is similar to putting ceramic floor tile down. Its not quick and easy nor hard to do but time consuming and each step needs to be done correctly before moving on.

After torquing the rear pillar screw use a punch and make an alignment mark on the screw and pillar. If in the field and you need to remove it you can get it close without a torque wrench.

My rear pillar / bushing is Devcon secured in place.


Now to get a day above freezing temperatures to hit the range.
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  #15  
Old 04-24-2013, 06:49 AM
stu929 stu929 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western Md
Posts: 1,879
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Great amount of detail and instructions.

Love it! Very nice work.
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  #16  
Old 04-24-2013, 07:00 AM
warbird warbird is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Swampeast Missouri
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Great thread. Thank you.
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  #17  
Old 04-24-2013, 08:16 AM
charles isaac charles isaac is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great Dismal Swamp, NC
Posts: 94
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Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and all the hard work you did getting this knowledge out there. There are many smiths that don't want this information made readily available-they have bills to pay too
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  #18  
Old 04-24-2013, 09:05 AM
Twinson Twinson is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 1,251
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can we make this a sticky?
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  #19  
Old 04-24-2013, 06:13 PM
DMark DMark is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 393
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Well Done cal50!
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D. Mark
Gentleman Farmer, U.S. Army - Ret.
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  #20  
Old 04-24-2013, 06:32 PM
cal50 cal50 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 102
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The bedding process would be the same with a wood stock. I wanted to show what was required to fit the McMillan stock and bed it properly since it's not a drop in stock and requires bedding. My super match rifle comes with a rear lugged receiver but is NOT threaded for a pillar or bolt. By adding a pillar and bolt it should prolong the life of the bedding.

Bedding is not difficult to do but the pics gives a person an idea what is involved if they want to do it themselves or what someone else needs to do if sent out.
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