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  #151  
Old 01-25-2017, 07:25 AM
bote bote is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 371
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Will try again from home. Photobucket is blocked from my company laptop so I tried unsuccessfully from my phone.

Last edited by bote; 01-25-2017 at 07:43 AM.
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  #153  
Old 01-25-2017, 09:31 AM
smallfry smallfry is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 47
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Nice stock. Is that the wall I see behind your M1? Look where the heel sits on the stock
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  #154  
Old 01-25-2017, 09:50 AM
bote bote is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 371
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Yes, you can see daylight. It's a pretty stock that I don't think has ever been sanded (except for the horseshoe). The gap just doesn't look right though. Shame, has the least "wear" of any WW2 stock I own. I'll post pics of the inside when I get a chance. I always look at the inside of a stock. I never pay big $ for a stock unless it comes from a source I know. I see stocks that look great on the outside but the inside tells a different story. (but I would pay for an early long channel WRA. Got a 100% correct early rifle except it's wearing springfield)
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  #155  
Old 01-25-2017, 03:28 PM
bote bote is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 371
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I've got a mixmaster I'm going to sell that has a solid original stock that's not as nice as this one but no gap. I may swap stocks before I sell it.
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  #156  
Old 01-27-2017, 12:57 PM
bote bote is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 371
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The surface of the horseshoe is "rounded" instead of flat as it should be; a lot of missing wood. It even has the little crossed cannons on the bottom of the pistol grip. Only stock I own that has that.
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  #157  
Old 03-31-2017, 01:04 PM
rdavisabc rdavisabc is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
Default Raw Linseed Oil for my Garand

Hi folks, this month I received my RM1Special from CMP with SA serial number 1,118,NNN, putting the receiver in January 1943. It came with a new stock, with an OK finish, but I wanted to get it looking more "original," and had to decide between tung oil, raw linseed oil, boiled linseed oil, or something else. Because the Field Manuals I read dated 1943, 1947 and 1965 instructed to use raw linseed oil, that's what I chose.

Before applying it I applied 5 thin coats of Danish Oil Finish Medium Walnut over several days, let it dry and then used Slazenger Natural Linseed Oil, also sold as Cricket Bat Oil. I applied thin coats using my fingers only, rubbing it in a section at a time and rubbing vigorously enough to generate some warmth between my fingers and the wood. I did not pour the oil on the wood or otherwise allow it to accumulate. I did this once in the morning, and then ~10 hours later in the evening, for 7 days. After applying, I let each coat dry for 45 minutes and then wiped dry with a soft cotton cloth. It never felt sticky.

I now plan on allowing it to rest for a few weeks and apply another thin coat, and do this until I'm completely satisfied.

You can see a picture of the results using the link below.



Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated!

Randy

Last edited by rdavisabc; 04-02-2017 at 03:19 PM.
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  #158  
Old 04-05-2017, 04:23 PM
bote bote is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 371
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Looks great in the pic Randy. Did you get a 30-06 or 308?
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  #159  
Old 04-05-2017, 05:44 PM
rdavisabc rdavisabc is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bote View Post
Looks great in the pic Randy. Did you get a 30-06 or 308?
I got the aught Six and am really happy with it...
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  #160  
Old 04-22-2017, 05:01 PM
MIkeb MIkeb is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: WESTFIELD MA.
Posts: 297
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anything by minwax contains a sealer.
The stock will never take another coat of anything on it.
Like a simple wipe down with linseed oil will do nothing but sit on top of the wood.
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