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Old 03-29-2011, 07:55 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
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Location: Ohio
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Default How To: Reworking CMP/Dupage/Boyds M1 Garand Stocks

There has been questions about the fit of commercial stocks lately so I thought I would post my findings
In my opinion all Boyds/Dupage/CMP stocks need "some" work. Some more than others. Here are a few things I have found that need checked
You need to check the width of the barrel channel. If it is to narrow it will hold the barrel up and result in your rifle shooting high. You can see that I releived both sides of the channel in the picture
I also had a problem with the stock ferrule setting to high and the Op Rod rubbed on it.
I carved out some of the wood with a utility knife until it set in the proper position.


Problem solved? Not yet, I then had to fill in the area on the bottom since the ferrule set lower so it would stay in place when tightened
I taped off the stock, and applied paste wax to the ferrule for a release.
Then placed JB Weld to the bottom of where the ferrule sets on the stock, put ferrule in place and start to tighten the screw but not all they way
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:56 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
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Problem fixed.
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:57 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
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Next issue, although it isnt a big one is sometimes the stock needs to have a cutout where the firing pin/bolt would hit. You can see here where the bolt contacted the stock when fired


Also may need alittle wood releived so the trigger clears when fired

If there is a small dent there the trigger is hitting and needs some wood removed
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:59 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
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Now on to the next issue. Set action in stock and install/lock the trigger assembly. Looking from the side of the rifle there should be a very small amount of clearance approx 1 1/4 inch from the back of the receiver to the back of the receiver legs. Hold it up to the light will make it easier to see. I'm only talking about the thickness of a piece of paper
If your stock doesnt have this wrap a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood and sand to proper clearance


Dont forget to do the tilt test
You can see here where the OP Rod was rubbing , I removed a small amount of wood along the whole length

The Op Rod was rubbing pretty good all long the inside, so I removed wood there also

The rear handguard was to long on the nose and extended to far through the band and actually kept the front handguard front sitting where it should. Remove wood as needed


Just a few things that you should check and you can do to improve the fit of these stocks
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:43 AM
LavaTech LavaTech is offline
 
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Default Can't have "too much information" when fitting stocks...

.... and so...


There you are!
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:09 AM
CarlC CarlC is offline
 
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Really good info above. I have found that I have had to remove material from the inside of the rear hand guard to get it off the barrel.
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  #7  
Old 03-29-2011, 10:24 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzman1 View Post
I have a Dupage stock on the way to my house as we speak, so this was the perfect post at the perfect time.

Thanks.
Heres a little more info. Not nessacary to do but I like my stocks slimmed down even more
close they had a slight overhang so I decided to do some work on them
I started off with 60 grit sandpaper until I had it shaped to proper size. I then used 100 and 150 and 180 for final sanding.
I used a set of Post War handgaurds as models for proper size
Here are some before and after pics. The rear handguard as it was fairly close to size and didnt need much



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Old 03-29-2011, 10:25 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
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I took quite a bit off the forearm to get it to size
I used a Post War Stock and handguards as a model for measurements.

After everything was sanded I applied several hand rubbed coats of medium walnut Watco Danish oil (available at Lowes, paint stores ,etc)
Applying the first coat with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper rubbing the oil into the stock with the sandpaper lightly.
I let it set for 10 minutes or so keeping the stock wet with the Watco oil during this time.
I then wiped off excess and let dry. Next day applied and handrubbed in another thin coat (no sandpaper)
Repeated next day
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:19 AM
HughUno HughUno is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlando View Post


]
your handguards still look way too "fat." slimming these down is 50% of the work in this process:

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Old 03-29-2011, 11:24 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
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I slimmed them down to USGI Post War Size, I used a set of Correct Grade handguards for a template and calipers to measure with.
Dont think you can get much more accurate than that
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