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  #91  
Old 12-17-2016, 07:44 PM
RogerFiler RogerFiler is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NE Texas
Posts: 2,226
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Originally Posted by richdonn View Post
Hi. I just got a CMP Special with the unfinished stock. I see that the CMP recommends using Minwax Tung Oil Finish, rubbing it out before drying to avoid the shiny look. I have another SG M1 where I melted out the cosmoline and finished with pure Tung Oil. It turned out nicely.
Do you guys think the rubbed out Minwax Tung Oil Finish is a good way to go with my new one? I don't see it mentioned above. Thanks in advance.
The word "finish" in a product frequently means it is part polyurethane and will be tough to remove. You'll probably be happier with just linseed oil.
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  #92  
Old 12-26-2016, 06:47 AM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,441
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Y
Quote:
Originally Posted by richdonn View Post
Hi. I just got a CMP Special with the unfinished stock. I see that the CMP recommends using Minwax Tung Oil Finish, rubbing it out before drying to avoid the shiny look. I have another SG M1 where I melted out the cosmoline and finished with pure Tung Oil. It turned out nicely.
Do you guys think the rubbed out Minwax Tung Oil Finish is a good way to go with my new one? I don't see it mentioned above. Thanks in advance.
The minwax tung oil finish is not to bad. If you apply it as directed buy rubbing it in well and removing excess it's not very glossy. Sadly I can't take a picture with out the TO finish looking glossy. I used it on my new wood stock for the rifle I shoot matches in only because it is a slightly more durable or harder finish. Plus as stated it has a slightly better sealing property?
I also like Tru-Oil
In the end I end up using more 100% pure tung oil. It's just easy to use and the finish is nice.
Check post 55 and 113 in the thread I show a few different finishes...I'm no pro but generally I am happy with my own work not having any "school'n" in wood work or finishing. My grand mother was a hobby furniture refinisher. Everything else unlearned by trying or reading I wish I had the internet 20plus years ago. Could have done so much more.
There where very few books on fixing guns in the library growing up.

I have a 1903a4 clone and the stock is in need of some help. It's coming up on the list of projects.

Last edited by mac1911; 12-26-2016 at 07:11 AM.
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  #93  
Old 03-31-2017, 02:27 PM
rdavisabc rdavisabc is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richdonn View Post
Hi. I just got a CMP Special with the unfinished stock. I see that the CMP recommends using Minwax Tung Oil Finish, rubbing it out before drying to avoid the shiny look. I have another SG M1 where I melted out the cosmoline and finished with pure Tung Oil. It turned out nicely.
Do you guys think the rubbed out Minwax Tung Oil Finish is a good way to go with my new one? I don't see it mentioned above. Thanks in advance.
On my RM1Special with CMP walnut stock I just used Danish Oil Finish Medium Walnut and raw linseed oil (also sold as Cricket Bat Oil). See what you think:



Randy

Last edited by rdavisabc; 04-02-2017 at 04:14 PM.
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  #94  
Old 04-01-2017, 06:56 AM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
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Link not working?
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  #95  
Old 04-01-2017, 09:25 AM
rdavisabc rdavisabc is offline
 
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Originally Posted by mac1911 View Post
Link not working?
Hmmm. Is there an error message? It should open in another tab or window if a pop-up blocker doesn't interfere. This should fix it...


Last edited by rdavisabc; 04-02-2017 at 04:16 PM.
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  #96  
Old 04-02-2017, 08:11 AM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
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9
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Originally Posted by rdavisabc View Post
Hmmm. Is there an error message? It should open in another tab or window if a pop-up blocker doesn't interfere.

Here's another link to try: https://1drv.ms/i/s!Aqkx1ffJZClfp11rZhGRBPSOUjvn
Viewed at my end all I see is a icon that looks like a piece of paper with the top right corner folded down?
New link wants me to sign into Microsoft account
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  #97  
Old 04-02-2017, 01:08 PM
Vos Parate Vos Parate is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
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Originally Posted by rdavisabc View Post
Hmmm. Is there an error message? It should open in another tab or window if a pop-up blocker doesn't interfere.

Here's another link to try: https://1drv.ms/i/s!Aqkx1ffJZClfp11rZhGRBPSOUjvn
See the CMP sticky on how to post pictures.
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  #98  
Old 10-25-2017, 07:35 PM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Ok so I have been able to get my stocks fitting well. Also have seen accuracy improvements with the fitment corrections.
I will need to post a video for my next question.
I will try to ask in words.
When the rifle is assemble and your grab the lower stock around the sling swivel and wrap your fingers up around the hand guard and give it a squeeze should there be some give?
I have one stock that does and it is a DGR/wenig stock (my best shooter) my new cmp stocks do not have this give. I will post a link to a video asap
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  #99  
Old 10-25-2017, 07:46 PM
Orlando Orlando is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac1911 View Post
When the rifle is assemble and your grab the lower stock around the sling swivel and wrap your fingers up around the hand guard and give it a squeeze should there be some give?
I have one stock that does and it is a DGR/wenig stock (my best shooter) my new cmp stocks do not have this give. I will post a link to a video asap
Yes they should sqeeze together then spring back apart. There should be a small space between the length of the rear handguard and the stock underneath it
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  #100  
Old 10-26-2017, 07:05 AM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Orlando View Post
Yes they should sqeeze together then spring back apart. There should be a small space between the length of the rear handguard and the stock underneath it
I have the space between the handgards and stock but not much give? Is there a fix?
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