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  #11  
Old 03-03-2012, 02:49 AM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cobb, N California
Posts: 15,103
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Brandes View Post
Nice Job Larry!

I have barreled a few now and here is a simple way to determine how much to remove from the barrel shoulder;
"With the new barrel hand tight on the receiver, the marks should be apart with 16 degrees to go. Measured with a caliper the distance between the two lines should be .167". A new barrel may have double that so you may have to skim a few thousandts off the barrel shoulder. The barrel diameter is 1.200" and you can do the math if you want. I have worked up a simple formula; Measure the distance between the marks when hand tight. Subtract .167 to find the difference. Multiply the difference by .0265 and the result is how much you have to skim from the barrel shoulder."
From my drill rifle web pages at:
http://www.foundry.ray-vin.com/firea...drillrifle.htm
and
http://www.foundry.ray-vin.com/firea...front2back.htm
Regards, Ray
Hey Ray,

.167" seems very conservative to me. I've installed several barrels on 1903's , a couple 1903A3's and more than a few Garands that have had substantially more draw than .167 both with new barrels and used barrels. In fact, double and more has been the norm in my experience so far. The one pictured in the PP and PDF was by far the most but it did draw up with some additional work.

If I'm suggesting something in my instructions that is seriously in error please let me know. It's worked so far for me but.......I'm no professional and I don't want to suggest something that may be a inappropriate.

On the re-barrel I illustrated, even the old barrel, after removal, when screwed back on the receiver, had more than double .167" to go for the lines to re-match (I checked that because I was concerned about how far the draw on the new barrel seemed to be). Why would that be. It was the original barrel and it was VERY tight with no corrosion. Tighter than any 1903 or A3 barrel I've removed so far.

Thanks for any insight you can give,

Larry
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  #12  
Old 03-05-2012, 12:23 PM
ceresco ceresco is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 6,815
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Lap--being a bit lazy, I have occasionally bumped a barrel shoulder repeatedly rather than undoing everything and using the lathe as I probably should. When I have used the lathe, I have found that a minimum cut--sometimes I don't even use the motor-- is enough. One story of possible interest--had a barrel that needed the recoil shoulder cut back. I looked at the receiver face and decided to clean it up before I cut the barrel. I used a big flat file and worked the receiver--just to remove burrs and cleanup..... Tried the receiver and.......this barrel that would not index with serious torque.......went on too far!! I was shocked. It was a 1903, so not easy to peen, but after some anxious moments we were able to move enough metal to keep it from easily unscrewing--at least. I resolved to be more careful in the future, but there is a lesson here about files and receiver faces. Good Shooting.....
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  #13  
Old 03-05-2012, 08:29 PM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cobb, N California
Posts: 15,103
Thumbs up

Being a bit lazy?....LOL....that's my middle name. Doing the one pictured I only got one serious creak out of my workbench and it didn't lift off the floor so all was good in the end. I certainly would have prefered that it was closer but I have no lathe, no access to one and no one in the area to help me out. Maybe that will be my next toy to add to my recent adventures into parkerizing.

Larry

Last edited by lapriester; 03-05-2012 at 10:24 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2012, 09:24 PM
GGaskill GGaskill is offline
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Location: Central Arizona
Posts: 2,591
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If you're into gunsmithing and have the money and the space, ya gotta have a lathe. Just no way around it.
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  #15  
Old 03-14-2012, 07:23 PM
skeet41 skeet41 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 322
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Larry, You really need a lathe. Take a look at the Grizzly 14x40 GO709 Gunsmiths lathe. Bought one in Dec. and love it. It is big and heavy but for the money it's great. If I were using a lathe in a production shop you could justify a more expensive machine but it will serve in a hobby shop for years. 220 volt, single phase is a big plus. Don't work for the company or know anyone who does but I do like their products. Enjoy your how to's and please keep it up.
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  #16  
Old 03-14-2012, 08:17 PM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cobb, N California
Posts: 15,103
Unhappy

If I could afford it and wanted to deal with the issues in having it I would get an 01 FFL and do this vintage gunsmithing stuff as a side business to my retirement. But, living in the wonderful state I live in it isn't worth the extra work, money and hassles involved.

Larry
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  #17  
Old 05-27-2012, 01:37 PM
viking308 viking308 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Becker, MN
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Any of you guys ever have the issue of not enough shoulder? How is that issue resolved?
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  #18  
Old 05-31-2012, 12:05 PM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cobb, N California
Posts: 15,103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viking308 View Post
Any of you guys ever have the issue of not enough shoulder? How is that issue resolved?

By not enough shoulder are you saying you don't have enough draw to get the barrel tight without going past the index line? If so you must either peen the barrel shoulde or use a thin spacer which are available. I don't know how effective the shims really are. Maybe someone who has used them can chime in.

L
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  #19  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:01 AM
GGaskill GGaskill is offline
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Location: Central Arizona
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One of my Swedes has shims between the barrel shoulder and the receiver. Seemed to work for them.
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  #20  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:22 AM
gunny gunny is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: North Bama
Posts: 5,986
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I have a Sedgley that would need about 6 shims...
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