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  #21  
Old 06-03-2012, 12:04 PM
viking308 viking308 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Becker, MN
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lapriester View Post
By not enough shoulder are you saying you don't have enough draw to get the barrel tight without going past the index line? If so you must either peen the barrel shoulde or use a thin spacer which are available. I don't know how effective the shims really are. Maybe someone who has used them can chime in.

L
Thanks, I though I remember someone peening. I have seached for shims but can only seem to find them for a Winchester shotgun. Am I not searching enough, or can the shims be fabricated?
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  #22  
Old 06-03-2012, 12:30 PM
chuckindenver chuckindenver is offline
 
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avoid shims...
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  #23  
Old 06-03-2012, 01:56 PM
viking308 viking308 is offline
 
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Location: Becker, MN
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Originally Posted by chuckindenver View Post
avoid shims...
Thanks for the advice, if you are in support of peening, what is the best approach? Using a small bar of round steel and hitting that instead of direct hits to the shoulder? What kind of angle?
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  #24  
Old 06-03-2012, 02:12 PM
chuckindenver chuckindenver is offline
 
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well, im not a supporter of either one, first, figure out why the barrel is over indexing by hand,
is it a used barrel? new? is the receiver a Drill rifle? is it even a GI reciever?
try another barrel, when hand tighting the witness marks should be no more then 1/8 apart, if it still over indexes, how far?
what i do, is lay the barrel on a steel flat surface at the shoulder, then i use a ball peen hammer and peen the edge all around the shoulders edge. that will give you one crush,
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  #25  
Old 10-17-2012, 10:12 PM
arnie arnie is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ca,
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Shimming causes head space problems unless you have a barrel that hasnt been full chambered yet .I shimmed a Mosin Nagant about .015 but the way the bolt head is made i was able to fix the head space problem by modifying the bolt head .To bad all bolt guns dont have a way to correct head space with replaceable bolt heads . Savage has the easiest way to set head space .Arnie
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  #26  
Old 10-17-2012, 10:27 PM
viking308 viking308 is offline
 
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Location: Becker, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnie View Post
Shimming causes head space problems unless you have a barrel that hasnt been full chambered yet .I shimmed a Mosin Nagant about .015 but the way the bolt head is made i was able to fix the head space problem by modifying the bolt head .To bad all bolt guns dont have a way to correct head space with replaceable bolt heads . Savage has the easiest way to set head space .Arnie
I have a M-N with new barrel that the bolt will not fully close. You think that taking a thousandth inch at time off the bolt will fix it?
Thanks
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  #27  
Old 10-17-2012, 10:47 PM
arnie arnie is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ca,
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It wont close empty or with a case in the chamber ? If MT or loaded i would remove the extractor and see if it will close .The extractor on the mosin needs clearance by a groove cut in the face of the barrel .If that groove isnt there or in the right spot or full of gunk , the bolt wont close . Some one makes head space guages that do not require removing the extractor .That might be a good investement also .Only need the field guage one .go and no go are not neede for this pourpose . If you remove metal from the face of the bolt head . Watch how much that outer ring grows in depth .If it gets too high it could hit the face of the barrel chamber making you think the head space is to tight .It only needs to be as deep as the rim of the case or maybe a little more .Do not remove it as the case will fall off the bolt before it fully extracts .
Arnie
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  #28  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:03 PM
viking308 viking308 is offline
 
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Location: Becker, MN
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It wont close empty. I was hoping to not remove the extractor as it is just a press fit, but will just hope it goes back in tight. With the extractor out of the way that may tell me something else too... When the new barrel went on it indexed ok, but the factory marks are not perfect and the barrels is maybe 2 degrees left of center. Was waiting to buy a gauge until its worth it. Hoping to not have to tighten the barrel any more because if I do, I'm gonna have to remove it and take some metal off somewhere.
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  #29  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:27 PM
arnie arnie is offline
 
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The extractor is a pain to get off but will go back on tight as its in a small dovetail .Theres U tube videos of how to do it .Is the barrel you put on a Mosin barrel or something else ? You might clean the head of the bolt real good and put some Dykem blue all over it and try to close it a few times and see if you can see where its hitting . Its very unusual for one of these to have tight head space as they were made sloppy to be able to function full of dirt and mud/snow.
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  #30  
Old 10-18-2012, 03:41 PM
viking308 viking308 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Becker, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnie View Post
The extractor is a pain to get off but will go back on tight as its in a small dovetail .Theres U tube videos of how to do it .Is the barrel you put on a Mosin barrel or something else ? You might clean the head of the bolt real good and put some Dykem blue all over it and try to close it a few times and see if you can see where its hitting . Its very unusual for one of these to have tight head space as they were made sloppy to be able to function full of dirt and mud/snow.
It is a Mosin barrel a year newer from the same factory.
1. Removed extractor.
2. Bolt head removed, bolt body closes fine
3. Bolt assembly, will not close. See pics...
4. Bolt head only, will not turn in
5. Colored bolt and worked in the action a few times. You can see wear at 6-7 and 1:30 to 3.



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