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  #31  
Old 07-24-2016, 10:19 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 3,045
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Some more M44 pics:
DSC_4524
DSC_4530
DSC_4529
DSC_4528
A bit of water damage on the heel, still haven't found a way to address these spots on stocks.
JH
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  #32  
Old 01-24-2017, 09:26 PM
S8Raz S8Raz is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 19
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Just put 6 coats of RLO on my new CMP wood after stripping off a previous attempt with Tru-Oil that I didn't like the results. Tru-Oil may be very durable, but the built up finish is too shiny for my taste.
RLO Finish looks good, but is quite delicate even after a few days of drying at room temp. It lifts off with painter's tape where I was masking the front handguard ferrule when installing the liner. So, I just applied a dab more and rubbed in.
How long does it take for the finish to "set up" properly?
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  #33  
Old 02-06-2017, 08:45 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 3,045
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TruOil is pretty shiny. You can knock that down with some wet sanding (400+ grit), 00000 steel wool or a scotchbrite.

An oil finish shouldn't have anything to lift off. Wipe on the oil, let it sit 30-60 min, then wipe dry. I like to check and wipe again after another hour or three.
Repeat every day until you feel it is done (whatever sheen you are after). After the last application you should be able to handle it in a few days.
JH
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  #34  
Old 03-01-2017, 10:15 AM
Heavy Junk Operator Heavy Junk Operator is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 521
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Would it be a bad thing to use full strength, uncut Purple Power?
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  #35  
Old 03-01-2017, 02:05 PM
bote bote is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 381
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I've use full strength, never hurt a stock
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  #36  
Old 03-01-2017, 06:39 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy Junk Operator View Post
Would it be a bad thing to use full strength, uncut Purple Power?
No, and I have used full strength. I still prefer to cut it with water, spray on until it's dripping and let it soak a few minutes (let the chemicals do the work) then wipe or scrub and wipe clean. So if it takes me 2-3 sessions of spray-sit-scrub-rinse instead of 1-2 I don't feel like I wasted time, just being cautious.
I have and use PP, but honestly the dollar store knock offs (also the citrus kitchen cleaners) work just as good, and are already watered down.
Sure, some may take 1-2 more sessions, but you never know if "stronger" would have made any difference.
Bottom line, these are water based degreasers, so a great, mild way to start degreasing. There is water already in them.....

JH
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  #37  
Old 12-12-2017, 08:12 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 3,045
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OK, it's been a while since I have posted a project. Been a bit busy. Just stripped down an M91/30 Sniper Stock; it had the crappy varnish that was scratched and peeling. It wasn't the shellac often seen, but a recently applies varnish (I tried Denatured Alcohol, which melts shellac, barely removed the shine). It's down to bare wood, letting it dry, will use Fairtrimmers and oil, not sure if I'll try the new pure tung oil I just got or stick with BLO. More to follow. In the interim, my "I'm the best dad ever" Christmas present I gave myself arrived, it will keep me busy.
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  #38  
Old 12-12-2017, 08:19 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 3,045
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So here's my new project.
P-1841 smoothbore percussion rifle with bayonet from IMA. Untouched.
I purchased a P-1878 Martini Henry frm them a few years back, also untouched. For those that don't know the story, Atlanta Cutlery and IMA (International Military Antiques) purchased and imported, about 15 (?) years ago a cache of arms from Nepal that had been in storage >100 years. All were covered in crud (rust, girt, grease). They were cleaning and selling them, had enough requests so started selling them "untouched" and many find them to be a great value, if you are looking for some restoration/cleaning time, or just want them as-is.
I was pretty excited with the Martini Henry so I have no "before" pictures, hit the IMA website for examples. They used to store these in Atlanta so I visited and picked one out myself. They are now in IMA's office so I took advantage of the Cyber Monday sale and got a great deal.
Here are a few of the Martini Henry:



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  #39  
Old 12-12-2017, 08:44 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 3,045
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I just unboxed the P-1841.
It is a percussion musket, smoothbore. Having seen their warehouse and read their description I was prepared for the worst, I was very pleased. I don't have 37 rolls of paper towels so I have cleaned nothing, but it appears to be solid with no large cracks or missing wood. They included a repro buttplate (my original seems OK; most are allegedly cracked or missing) and a repro patch cover as all are missing.
All other major, and minor parts appear to be present. The hammer is bent (from being stacked for a century), I should be able to straighten it.
While not for everyone, I am looking forward to this project.
I may try some new processes, many seem to like ultrasonic cleaning for the metal and acids (Muratic if I recall) for rust and grime removal. I'm in no hurry, nor is the rifle.



[/url]



One for a size comparison



I'll try some pictures in sunlight this weekend.
IMA doesn't have any "cleaned and complete" 1841s available but here's one that is pretty close; this 1841 should clean up like this. My Martini Henry looked like this or a bit worse when I got it.
https://www.ima-usa.com/collections/...ket-circa-1840

JH
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  #40  
Old 12-13-2017, 11:20 AM
bote bote is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 381
Default Thanks Zvenoman

Really cool rifle. I'd like to acquire a few original percussion/flintlock rifles but no nothing about them. Please keep posting.
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