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  #1  
Old 10-29-2009, 01:17 PM
doggbert556 doggbert556 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 73
Default black oxide at home

I am not the author of the post this link will take you too. I assume no liability for your outcomes if you try this. Follow his warnings to the letter.

This was posted in the refinish section of Ar15.com. I do know that Lye(sodium Hydroxide) in high concentrations heated, will blacken metals. I've seen it done. So for all who would like to black oxide steel here ya go:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=19&t=261805

Good luck
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2009, 01:42 PM
KRAG-30-40 KRAG-30-40 is offline
 
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Location: Paris,Illinoios
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doggbert556 View Post
I am not the author of the post this link will take you too. I assume no liability for your outcomes if you try this. Follow his warnings to the letter.

This was posted in the refinish section of Ar15.com. I do know that Lye(sodium Hydroxide) in high concentrations heated, will blacken metals. I've seen it done. So for all who would like to black oxide steel here ya go:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=19&t=261805

Good luck
Nothing against you're post but that is a very hazardous to your health method not to mention disposal afterwards.Here is a more suitable method and safer http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2009, 01:50 PM
J.W.A. J.W.A. is offline
 
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Posts: 771
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+1 for Caswell Stainless Blackener. With the correct prep it looks good. It is not super durable but easy to touch up though. Make sure you apply a coat of grease or oil after blackening to help seal the surface and reduce scuffing.

Jeff
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  #4  
Old 10-31-2009, 08:17 AM
MH53Gunner MH53Gunner is offline
 
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Location: Maryland
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Caswell's is good for small parts.
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2009, 07:09 PM
Byron Byron is offline
 
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Posts: 1
Default

Brownells BLACK MAGIC
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  #6  
Old 11-23-2009, 12:02 AM
LeadSpitter LeadSpitter is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Northern, IL.
Posts: 226
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It doesn't seem all that different then zinc parkerizing. The online article I read on how to zinc parkerize (see my first link below) which requires one to heat the solvent up and let whatever your parkerizing set in for a set amount of time.

I think one just needs to do this ion a well, very well ventilated are and take other obvious precautions as well as one being where a mask...

Home parkerizing.
http://www.webshooters.org/diy_home_parkerizing.htm

Link to buy zinc parkerizing solvent.
http://www.parkerize.com/parkerizingz.html

Now this isn't the greatest video as far as quality, but watch it. Watch how they grab the barrel then blue it. Rugged Blue seems to coat and work very well???

http://www.parkerize.com/gunblue.html

As for the parkerizing, the first link, if I had the cash to buy the stainless tank, glass beading station and all the rest of the stuff needed to do it, I know I'd try it myself. For me though, it was and is just cheaper to send it to someone else to do.

As I did with my barrel. CenterMass aka freefly does and did a great job.
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  #7  
Old 11-23-2009, 09:49 AM
mrerick mrerick is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 122
Default Stainless Steel Blackening

Also see my recent CMP forum post at:

http://www.thecmp.org/forums/showthread.php?t=366

I just completed oxide blackening the stainless steel components of my Garand (Gas Cylinder, Cylinder Screw (the plug), Cylinder Lock.

I'm happy with the results.

Marc
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  #8  
Old 12-04-2009, 06:00 PM
TGriffin TGriffin is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
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Doggbert556, thank you very much for the thorough and informative post. I for one appreciate the do it yourself approach which not only gives you great satisfaction, but also provides an alternative to ridiculously high priced sources such as Caswell and Brownell's.

As for it being "hazardous to your health", unless you bathe of drink the stuff, I seriously doubt that lye solution is going to cause any health problems. Besides, you provided more than adequate warnings in your post.

Again, thanks for the post.

Tom
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2009, 08:27 PM
Oohrah Oohrah is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: So Oregon Coast
Posts: 50
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Years ago, I watched a gunsmith friend do the same process that you follow.
So many repeated blue jobs that he made it appear so simple. However, I would perfer to pay for the job for an expected result than being aon the cheap and screw up a firearm that is meaningful. He used to tell me that 90% was in the polish and preparation of the metal. Care and skill must be used to keep letters, holes not dished out and oval, but round, and square surfaces the same. It is time consuming to do it correctly. If possible, the tanks should be done outside, as any metalic steel or iron tool will turn to rust from the vapors. I did a lot of practicing on some junk rifles to develop the skills to polish the metal, before he turned me loose with my own stuff, that he would put into the tanks. No clue the brand of salts he used, but they could be used many times if kept uncontaminated. Still have many of those that were done, and they maintain the dark rich blue/black finish of when they were done in the early 60s. Thank you for the reminder that great care and skills to get a first class job results should be considered. The parkerizing prep is mainly bead blasting. Really impressed with the fine particled glass that keeps lettering crisp and without that washout look.
The rest is a plateing process, that is super durable, and really very practical
for heavy use firearms.
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