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  #11  
Old 10-27-2009, 12:55 PM
drywash drywash is offline
 
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Larry : What case gage do you use for Garand? (Brand name) Also what is difference between overall Length gage and cartridge headspace gage? Beginner question. Thanks. Of the two which is needed for Garand reloading?
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  #12  
Old 10-27-2009, 06:08 PM
ma96782 ma96782 is offline
 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
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IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge for a gas gun is to gauge your re-sized brass. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.

Examples……..

http://www.sinclairintl.com/prod_det...eadspace-Tools


This is how I do mine.

6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.” I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, lube your cases. Then, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct re-size" has been achieved. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices). Holding the gauge vertically, insert a case into the case gauge (do NOT place it on the table top). The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks for the “correct re-size.“ While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it’s not the “correct re-size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed. When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot (remember to test some cases throughout the run).

7) Clean off the case lube. Either with another soak in Birchwood Casey cleaner or a quick wipe off with a cloth dampened in solvent. . You can also tumble (or use a vibratory machine) but, remember what I said about the media getting stuck in flash holes and pockets? So, make sure it's clear.

8) Case trimming. Check first: Place the gauge (w/cartridge case in it) headstamp end down, on a flat surface. The case should not be stuck in the gauge, it needs to sit on the flat surface. For the correct length, the end of the neck should be, at or between, the two cuts on the gauge. IF you have a caliper.........measuring works too.

For ME, first time: New, once fired (purchased and given) and range pick up brass are always trimmed (with few exceptions) for consistency sake.

I'll trim the cases with my Gracey trimmer (it’ll trim, chamfer, and de-burr in a single operation). Remember, we are doing this as a "lot." So, IF one case needs a trim......they all get a run through the trimmer.

More info on the Gracey Trimmer…………

http://www.matchprep.com/trimmer.htm

Or, choose the Giraud.........

http://www.giraudtool.com/

NOTE: IF it's not done with your brand of trimmer..........don't forget to slightly chamfer and slightly de-burr the necks. It'll ease bullet seating. Use this style of tool.........

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...181&t=11082005
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Note that these are my steps, your process may vary from mine.
___________________

Aloha, Mark
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  #13  
Old 10-27-2009, 09:49 PM
drywash drywash is offline
 
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Thanks Mark for the great detail. j.k.
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  #14  
Old 10-27-2009, 10:53 PM
John Doe John Doe is offline
 
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Midway sells the Possum Hollow Kwick Case Trimmer ($20.49) :
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=775644

Quote:
The Kwick Case Trimmer is very handy because it can be used as a hand trimmer and with the optional power adapter which allows the trimmer to be used with an electric drill. Pilots and shellholder are not needed when trimming.
Notes:
# May be used as a hand trimmer or with the power adapter (allows the trimmer to be used with an electric drill)
# The power adapter may also be used with Wilson, RCBS or Redding case mouth deburring tools
# The Kwick case trimmer indexes from the datum of the cartridge case shoulder, so shellholders and pilots are not needed when trimming
This is supposed to work like an electric pencil sharpener. I haven't bought one yet but plan to buy one for .30-06 and one for .223 this winter to trim the thousands of cases I have stashed away waiting to be reloaded.

I hope this helps in some way.
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2009, 01:53 PM
terry_b terry_b is offline
 
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if you full length re-size your cases, you can probably skip the gauge. The die better push it back to spec. or you've got a bad die set. Trying to just size enough for your garand is asking for trouble and adding to the number of things that can go wrong. And don't forget, the ammo will then may only work in that one gun.
You're not loading for a benchrest or varmint gun. For long range stages where you can single load, you will gain by adjusting OAL to what your gun likes best and using a premium match bullet like the sierra 168BTHP.
But for 200 yard garand matches with an unaccurized gun you are better off spending the time on your position and money on a better quality bullet.
I've found it faster (if you have a power setup for your case trimming) to just trim them all.
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  #16  
Old 10-28-2009, 02:54 PM
fischfam fischfam is offline
 
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Location: Central NJ
Posts: 82
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so it looks like I have most or ordered the needed items other than a "primer pocket uniformer". Newbie question, are the primer pockets all that different or nonuniform that I need to size each one? After loading thousands of pistol ammo it's hard to believe that the pockets can be that far off. But if so i will get one.
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  #17  
Old 10-28-2009, 09:22 PM
Jack Leslie Jack Leslie is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 73
Default The Primer Pocket Uniformer is Your Friend!

fischfam:

I started reloading for AR & M1903/Garand a couple of years ago. Before I started using a primer pocket uniformer, I had a tough time seating my primers below casehead on about 10% of my LC brass cases. I could do it, but I had to use a LOT of pressure on some to get them where they should be. Since I started using one, I haven't had any problems.

My experience has been that HXP brass usually is unchanged by the uniformer, but 99% of my Winchester and LC .30-06 brass get cut deeper. It is pretty much the same for my WCC & LC 5.56 brass.

Note: A primer pocket uniformer ensures the shape and depth of the primer pocket is to spec - It will not remove any primer crimp. That is removed in a seperate operation (before uniforming) with either a swager or cutter.

Hope that helps,
Jack
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  #18  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:10 PM
sailorman sailorman is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 135
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Yes you do need to trim or at least measure each time you reload a case. I have done many hundreds of cases with the Lee and now have a Giraud but the Lee will do fine for a few cases now and then.
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  #19  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:46 PM
joe wilson joe wilson is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kali refugee, now in the free state of Mo.
Posts: 1,104
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I am with drywash. I actually find reloading and case prep to be relaxing. I have a power trimmer and a Forster crank trimmer as well as Lee trimmers. I find that the power or crank trimmers take a while to set up when switching between cartridges.

Often I will just grab the Lee trimmer and trim 100 or so, then reload them. I do have two of the Forster deburring, crank tools. I had one and got tired of switching the DBT around. I bought another off ebay. One deburrs inside the other deburrs outside, both screwed down to my loading bench top.

As a sidebar, you can order tools, dies, accessories and even small parts directly from Lee online. They say it takes 2-3 weeks, but my last order came in 4 days. You can spend $800 for a power trimmer and all the bells, whistles, gizmo's, collets, stands, bases, tool holders, shell holders and pilots.

Me, I would rather buy another rifle from CMP with the money.
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  #20  
Old 10-29-2009, 01:31 AM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cobb, N California
Posts: 16,401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry_b View Post
if you full length re-size your cases, you can probably skip the gauge. The die better push it back to spec. or you've got a bad die set. Trying to just size enough for your garand is asking for trouble and adding to the number of things that can go wrong. And don't forget, the ammo will then may only work in that one gun.
You're not loading for a benchrest or varmint gun. For long range stages where you can single load, you will gain by adjusting OAL to what your gun likes best and using a premium match bullet like the sierra 168BTHP.
But for 200 yard garand matches with an unaccurized gun you are better off spending the time on your position and money on a better quality bullet.
I've found it faster (if you have a power setup for your case trimming) to just trim them all.
The case gage is for proper initial adjustment of the sizing die. You need it.

Larry
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