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  #21  
Old 12-23-2009, 07:01 PM
DaveHH DaveHH is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,709
Default Sierra also makes a 150 gr Gamemaster 2115

which is a FMJBT that isn't a bad choice either and about $4 less than the MK. Problem is that I mentioned this a few years back and they are now always back ordered. I figure that they probably make all of their bullets on the same good tooling so these should shoot well too and they do. I'm very intrigued about the 110 gr bullet load, loading that thing down to about 2700 would be just fine in the M1 and bonus: less powder, less recoil, easier on the weapon and $$!
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  #22  
Old 12-23-2009, 09:52 PM
sierra77mk sierra77mk is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bean Counter View Post
Those look like the ones Widener's had back in the day for $55/k if you got 2,000. I tried mineral spirits for the asphaltum on the base but it didn't work by itself and I didn't feel rubbing each bullet with a stiff brush while smelling the mineral spirits was worth it. Someone recently said they tumbled these and the crud came off. Funny thing - I mentioned that I got these to the DR's who run our club's Jr Hipower and both said - "Why would I want those?" I realize they aren't the best bullets but figured to have a M-2 substitute for practice going to issued ammo matches. Plus I have three M1917, one 03A3, and a Garand - I'm not going to tailor a match load for each.
Really no need to tumble the bullets, just get a jar/can of turpentine, really just a few ozs, screw the lid on and and shake/rattle/roll. The turpentine melts the asphaltum and the bullets rub against themselves. Dry in the sun and good to go.
They're fine for duplicating M2 ball loads. The best non match bullet I have used is the Hornady 150 fmj. All hornady fmj/ball bullets 9mm-.22-.30-.45 have been way better than Win-Rem-Speer.
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  #23  
Old 12-24-2009, 07:27 AM
fischfam fischfam is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceresco View Post
I have not looked at a IMR website but their "Handloading guide" (no date) lists 58.0grs IMR 4064 (compressed load) 3320fps from a 23 inch barrel. They recommend starting 10% low and working up. I don't think I would ever use dare use that load and certainly not in an M1. There are other scary loads in that manual that got my attention years ago. Don't know what goes at IMR but they were (are??) not whimps there. I suggest the Lyman Handloading manuals (50.0--55.5grs IMR 4064 for 30-06 110gr bullet) are among the very best. It is always a good idea to check several manuals and possibly even to avoid IMR data. A velocity of 3000fps for a 110gr bullet is reasonable for a M1 although you are losing the diminished recoil at that level. Remember the faster bullet clears the gas port to muzzle distance quicker, reducing the gas impulse some. I prefer about 2900fps with the 110s. Good Shooting.......
Sounds like I should be getting another manual anyway soon. I like the sound of the Lyman's load and will try that on the lighter side. My question since I am a relatively new re-loader, can I go under the starting load? Say 15% lower instead of 10%, which would use about 2.5 grains less of 4064. I have read stuff about the dangers of light loads (or myths) so I just figured I'd ask. I am so much concerned about the rifle not cycling but rather physical damage to the gun. If I can work something up between 42.5 and 45 grains that sounds like it might work fine.
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  #24  
Old 12-24-2009, 08:35 AM
Slapshot Slapshot is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kalamazoo County, Michigan
Posts: 345
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fischfam, you should be able to reduce the load into the 35-36 gr. range before you run into cycling problems. At 42.5-45 grs. of 4064 the rifle should function normally. As to your concerns, there's no real "danger" in using "light" loads, they're used all the time, especially by cast bullet shooters. Have fun and let us know how your loads work out for you. Here's a website that provides relative burn rates for various powders:
http://www.reloadbench.com/burn.html
It can be of use especially when reloading for the Garand.
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  #25  
Old 12-24-2009, 08:47 AM
ceresco ceresco is offline
 
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Posts: 7,614
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OK--some published loads (like IMR & Hornady pamphlets) give one load with a warning to start lower. That is not a "starting load". The actual, real, handloading manuals have starting loads and show increments up to what they feel are maximunm loads. The starting loads for 110gr bullets are generally about right for M1s. You still need an appropriate (M1) powder. M1 specific sections are going to focus on traditional loads and probably won't mention either reduced loads or light bullets. The danger of "detonation" with reduced loads is mostly for Weatherby magnums. 16 inch guns and such. I did not try to reduce loads greatly because smaller airspace and higher velocity gives uniform velocity. Limited testing (I keep a notebook) showed 110 accuracy falling off by 2700fps although as mentioned I don't test much in that range. i have used 110gr maximun loads in the bolt rifles and. believe me--although accurate--at 3400fps the recoil comes back and you can blow leaves and dirt half way to the target, Good Shooting.....

Last edited by ceresco; 12-24-2009 at 09:44 AM.
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  #26  
Old 01-04-2010, 05:35 AM
Charles Graham Charles Graham is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Northampton County Va.
Posts: 76
Default Reloading Tracers?

When reloading tracer ammo is there any things to be aware of. Does one use the same amount of powder for the weight of the bullet? Does the tracer cause any weird fouling problems or increased wear?
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  #27  
Old 01-04-2010, 09:47 AM
ceresco ceresco is offline
 
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Posts: 7,614
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Knowledgeable postwar writers shut the door on using tracers citing inccuracyy, fire danger and bore damage. Technology may have changed but I view spending $$ on odd componets as false economy. By the time you figure out what you have and how to use it, you realize you're better off buying quality products at the start. Use the search--there are other postings on this subject. Good Shooting......
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  #28  
Old 01-04-2010, 04:35 PM
82nd Rigger 82nd Rigger is offline
 
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Location: Fort Walton Beach, Florida
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Default

With pulled M2 or M72 Match bullets that have asphalt on them....I just put them in an open container and pour in enough solvent to cover them and let them soak for a day or two. The solvent will dissolve the asphalt.

Gasoline works.
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  #29  
Old 01-04-2010, 05:24 PM
jeeperbob jeeperbob is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Vail, AZ
Posts: 826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClosetGunNut View Post
fischfam, Welcome to the wonderful world of reloading!

If you're just looking for some cheap projectiles, Polygunbag.com has 145gr .308 tracers on sale for $45/1000. I picked up 4K recently and they are great people to deal with. Here's a link:
http://www.polygunbag.com/.30CalSurp...argerView.html

They are not very accurate to say the least but if you just want some fodder to run through your Garand they'll work nicely.

FYI: Make sure you have somewhere to shoot 'em before you get them. You don't want to start any fires!

Closet
Using tracer ammo in your rifle is not a good idea. They cause excessive wear in the bore and premature burn out. They were designed primarily to help gunners direct automatic fire as they were put into the belts every 8-9 rounds and the composition of the tracer rounds lends to the inaccuracy of the round itself. If the price of someting is so drastically cheaper than an item designed for the task you have to ask yourself why. If you want to just hear the gun go bang you would be better off loading blanks.
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  #30  
Old 01-04-2010, 06:46 PM
Bigdog5981 Bigdog5981 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 133
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I have fired quite a few tracers in my Garand and have had no adverse results. As the tracer material does not light until at least 100 yards down range, there would be no reason for any bore damage. It might start a fire under certain conditions. I have also found them to be reasonably accurate. Other than the tracer material in the base of the bullet, which is enclosed by a metal closure cup, the tracer bullet is not any different than any other military bullet. No tracer material comes in contact with the bore as the bullet makes its way down the barrel.

If you do want to clean the tar off the bullets, put some bug and tar remover in your tumbler.
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