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Old 07-19-2017, 04:19 AM
harveyw1 harveyw1 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 139
Default Drill rifle barrel

I recently acquired a 03a3 drill rifle barrel. It doesn't have the usual rod welded into the breach with the torch cut barrel. It has what appears to be solid rod inserted into the whole length of the barrel. I really don't see obvious weld marks. Does anyone know if the rod can be driven or pressed out. I would like to put a barrel liner in and having a straight existing hole will be easier to drill out. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 07-19-2017, 06:09 AM
SpearheadOrd SpearheadOrd is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Stafford, VA
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Good luck but I think its a wasted effort, You would be better off finding a shot out barrel and relining it. When I bid on and got a pallet of Drill rifles in the big CMP auction a few years ago I found a SC rifle that had the rod pressed in. We tried to remove it w/ no luck. Someone else will chime in but apparently they "super cooled" ( for lack of better description) the rods then forced them into the bores. When they expanded they were in there forever. After we broke a couple of bore diameter steel rods trying to force it out w/ hydraulic pressure we milled the barrel to see how far in, and how tight the rod was. We broke 2 end cut mills cutting on the rod!

Mark
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  #3  
Old 07-19-2017, 08:33 AM
jimmyzwei jimmyzwei is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Iowa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpearheadOrd View Post
Good luck but I think its a wasted effort, You would be better off finding a shot out barrel and relining it. When I bid on and got a pallet of Drill rifles in the big CMP auction a few years ago I found a SC rifle that had the rod pressed in. We tried to remove it w/ no luck. Someone else will chime in but apparently they "super cooled" ( for lack of better description) the rods then forced them into the bores. When they expanded they were in there forever. After we broke a couple of bore diameter steel rods trying to force it out w/ hydraulic pressure we milled the barrel to see how far in, and how tight the rod was. We broke 2 end cut mills cutting on the rod!

Mark
You have the process down correctly
By the way it is a special commercial type freezer that gets well below Zero degrees. You have to wear special glove and tongs to handle the rod and it is still pushed in with a hydraulic press. After the rod used which is DR (Drill Rod) a special hardened steel. is in place even the barrel will frost up from the cold as everything thaws out.
Back when i was an apprentice at RIA I was in the small arms shop and watched them do this
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Last edited by jimmyzwei; 07-19-2017 at 08:36 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-19-2017, 08:36 AM
ceresco ceresco is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
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I have found a few that did not have the "weld". Using a drill bit with a sleeve, then a driving rod, I managed to remove one. Damage to the lands was significant, but the barrel was "shootable". Others I have seen would be in the same category. Dispite the internet theories, I believe the mild steel rods were simply driven in with a big hammer and punch. There is a lot of variation, as one might expect. OP can measure with a cleaning rod to see how far in the rod was driven, but The barrel really isn't worth much. Sleeves are only for rimfire and very low pressure cartridges. I want to try salvaging the dated end of some my early (drill) barrels to sleeve onto sportered barrels some day, but haven't found much use for them otherwise. If anyone wants a dozen (or a hundred) PM me. Good Shooting. ... Addendum: interesting theory about supercooled rods, but since they were welded in, I can't see anyone bothering with a complicated process. I suspect procedures varied at different locations and over time. I will look at the rod ends for evidence of "hammering" and check to verify they were mild steel. I did drill one out using a standard HS bit....

Last edited by ceresco; 07-19-2017 at 08:45 AM.
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  #5  
Old 07-19-2017, 09:26 AM
SpearheadOrd SpearheadOrd is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Stafford, VA
Posts: 332
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To provide additional info on the deactivation process it is apparent that there were multiple methods/forms of deactivating firearms performed at the various locations. For a review these are the drill rifle deactivation variations I have observed starting from the time I was an ROTC cadet at Western Michigan University a 'long long' time ago. These have been observed in multiple combinations for both M1903 and M1903A3.

Bolt (All observed): Firing pin end removed (grinding or broken off) and firing pin hole welded closed

Front sight: A) Front sight blade in place; B) Front sight removed (1903) / sight blade removed (A3); c) Front sight blade broken off (A3)

Rear sight: A) Rear sight removed, mounting dovetail (A3) or base (1903) in place; B) Rear sight removed, mounting dovetail ground/cut off (A3); C) Rear Sight in place (A3)

Follower and spring: A) In place; B) Removed

Magazine cut off: A) Operational; B) Welded in place w/ stainless steel rod; C) Welded in place w/ carbon steel rod. Note that the amount of welding observed varied greatly from light tacking to heavy welding that severely damaged the receiver in the cutoff area

Barrel plugging; A) Chamber/ breech face closed w/ a weld, no rod visible; B) Chamber plugged w/ a rod jammed into breech, no weld; C) Chamber plugged w/ a rod and the rod welded into place by a pass cutting into the underside of the barrel in the chamber area. Note that other than the SC barrel mentioned in the post above I did not check the hardness of the rods

Barrel / receiver welding: A) None, barrel removable; B) Barrel "lightly" tack welded to receiver (1/8 - 1/4' or less) limited penetration and limited visible damage to receiver; C) Barrel heavily tack welded to receiver (1/2" - 1") penetration and damage to receiver varied; C) 360 deg weld of receiver to barrel, receiver unrecoverable

As I mentioned above the SC barrel I discussed above had a hardened steel rod that we could not drill into and while milling a groove in the barrels to make a "cut away' drill rifle barrel the rod broke 2 end mill bits

HTH's Mark

Last edited by SpearheadOrd; 07-19-2017 at 09:29 AM.
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  #6  
Old 07-19-2017, 01:57 PM
HC-7 HC-7 is offline
 
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Location: SC Pa
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I got a hardened rod out of a P-17 once....It was about 6 inch's long.....I used a 50/50 mix of Dexron atf and acetone....Filled up the barrel and let it set a week...came right out....first 6 inch's of the lands were flattened a bit....I got lucky.....regards....alex
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  #7  
Old 07-20-2017, 01:44 PM
mtime7 mtime7 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 511
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no help on removing the rod, but was just wondering why you would want to bother with an 03a3 barrel, is it just something to do?
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  #8  
Old 07-20-2017, 02:25 PM
harveyw1 harveyw1 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 139
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I have some drill rifles I want to make into 1903A4 clones, but in .22. Since I want them to look as authentic as possible, I want to drill out an original barrel and reline it. Don't want to waste a good original barrel for these projects. You used to be able to find bad barrels reasonably but they seemed to have dried up like a lot of things.
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  #9  
Old 07-20-2017, 10:30 PM
RC20 RC20 is offline
 
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Who knew bad barrels were worth anything?
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2017, 10:10 AM
captaincalc captaincalc is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ohio
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My 03-to-22 remake dream had me using a worthless 03 barrel. Cut it down, drill it out, then seat a 44US barrel ( for example) into the receiver, using the 03 barrel stump as a bushing. That or use the 03 barrel for re-lining in 22. The cuts etc in the barrel wouldn't make any difference - we're not talking a whole lot of pressure here. Heck you could even make the elusive 22 hornet/03 with one. Good thing I'm getting too old to mess with such things. Plenty of drill rifles out there to experiment with tho'.
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