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  #31  
Old 12-13-2017, 07:00 PM
broomhandle broomhandle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Augusta GA- X NYC guy
Posts: 557
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Hi Sir,

A LOT less force is required to brake the barrel free of the receiver!

Try to have the shoulder on the scrap barrel / receiver joint paper thin!
Go below the base of thread some amount!
That removes the torque/ tightened force from the threads. The barrel is usually installed using a 4 or 5 foot long pipe on the action wrench.
" It be real tight "as some people would say.

Best to all & GOOD Luck,
broom
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  #32  
Old 12-13-2017, 07:03 PM
lemmonhead lemmonhead is online now
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keller View Post
Not doubting the experience of those that have done this already, but what does the relief cut buy you in the barrel removal?
The barrels can be a little snug even without the weld so the relief cut will take some or the pressure off off the face of the barrel to the receiver. You don't want to get into he receiver face so no matter what there is going to be a little bit of the weld holding the barrel onto the receiver that you will have to break through.

I wish I would have taken some pictures. I have used a dremel and ground as much off as I could and then used a cutoff wheel. I have also used a file on one rifle. This last time I tried using a friend's lathe. His lathe is not very big and it was hard to get the barrel into the chuck and keep it somewhat square and stable. Also the welds can be pretty tough and it kept breaking the cutting tool. He had a mill over the lathe so we used the mill with the lathe turning pretty slow to ground down a relief cut. Barrel came off pretty easy after that. I will try and get some pictures up tonight of the barrel and reciever.
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  #33  
Old 12-13-2017, 07:29 PM
broomhandle broomhandle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Augusta GA- X NYC guy
Posts: 557
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Hi Fellows,

I discovered that the stainless welds were a bit hard in spots.

I had some low cost diamond files from Harbor Freight -some stores have them some don't. With the various grades of cutting grits, the welds came off like butter! Some of my better grade steel Swiss files just skated over the welds!

I did order a second set (Amazon $15)with a half round, square, triangle & full round shape. It makes getting into some areas of the mag.cut off weld area a CINCH!

Please continue to save GOOD Quality historic firearms from the scrap heap!

PLEASE understand, some can't be brought back to firing condition safely!
If YOU don't know what to look for ASK someone here! It can be a night mare if one comes apart in your hands.

Good Luck,
broom
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  #34  
Old 12-14-2017, 07:48 AM
snuffy1a snuffy1a is offline
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pittsburgh,PA
Posts: 265
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I finally got my barrel off. I heard a loud crack and thought the action had cracked, but fortunately it was just the barrel breaking loose. Now to clean it up and put it all back together.
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  #35  
Old 12-14-2017, 09:58 AM
broomhandle broomhandle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Augusta GA- X NYC guy
Posts: 557
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Hi Sir,

Super!

Take your time & DO check the mating edge of the receiver/ barrel joint (all around) for tiny HIGH spots of weld or old burrs. A machinist square works well.

Best wish's,
broom
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  #36  
Old 12-14-2017, 12:06 PM
TucsonVTXF TucsonVTXF is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 25
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My DuPage drill rifle I received yesterday a smith corona with everything else Remington.. I bought the rifle for the Remington stock and parts, it is a light weld on the lower receiver and the lever.









Last edited by TucsonVTXF; 12-14-2017 at 03:08 PM.
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  #37  
Old 12-16-2017, 10:53 AM
lemmonhead lemmonhead is online now
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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The relief cut. I used a mill over the lathe. Got as close to the receiver as possible without touching the receiver.



The receiver broke free fairly easily with an action wrench and barrel in a vise.



No matter what you will have to break through part of the weld. Just need to clean up the receiver a little.

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  #38  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:35 PM
captaincalc captaincalc is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,986
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I keep a couple around for exercise and dry-fire practice. Not necessary to convert a lot of them to "converted" status. Handy to have some nope-shooters around. The ones I did un-barrel: Dremel tool worked best for me, then used a pipe wrench - gave it (the PW) a few good solid whacks with a hammer. That broke the receiver's insane hold on the barrel. I had no other use for the cut and welded barrel I took off.
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  #39  
Old 12-17-2017, 01:01 PM
snuffy1a snuffy1a is offline
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pittsburgh,PA
Posts: 265
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Just curious. What is everyone using for a replacement barrel? This obviously isn't a museum piece so I'm thinking of using a used/NOS barrel.
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  #40  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:08 PM
Carriec Carriec is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 283
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New Criterion from CMP. Lot of folks advertising NOS pick one if you like for "correct" installation. War time barrels may not be at the accuracy standards of new production. There are exceptions of course. CMP's $199, NOS $120-200 and up if someone thinks they have something special.
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