Does anyone know or heard about a cleaner that is said to be used in all military weapons.The bore cleaner is MPro7.It is claimed to neutralize corrosive ammo. I have used it for about 10 years on my M48 Yugo Mausers, SKS Yugo,and Finish M39 rifles with great results.But you must always must recoat every thing with gun oil as it also removes the oils in and on the guns.
Stickable: Corrosive Primer Ammunition and Cleaning After Firing
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This is a sticky topic.
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Lots of opinions, but the original sticky was the best. Priming salts are just that, a mineral salt. The only reason Windex does anything is due to the fact that it's mostly water. Yeah the ammonia might loosen up the copper, but there are better products out there for cleaning out the copper.
Warm soapy water is the best and is what the military used to use. Drying the bore completely helps and then a good lubricant to prevent air oxidation of the unprotected metal.
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I would be interested in feedback from anyone who shot Corrosive in a M1 Garand and what special steps if any they took considering the gas system. It is obvious that bolt action would be easier to clean but I bet there is some good advice out there. (besides avoiding).
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A complete strip down and thorough cleaning would be prudent.CMP Customer # 131290
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Garand Collectors Association
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In honor of my father, Howard C. Ricks. Corporal, Co. E, 2nd Battalion, 20th Marine Engineers, 4th Marine Division. Later renamed Co. B, 4th Pioneer Battalion after Marianna Operation. Service dates February 1943 to October 31, 1945, Combat action: Roi-Namur, Saipan, Tinian and Iwo Jima. His rifle SA 893999 met "Captain Crunch".
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Originally posted by scobby View PostDoes anyone know or heard about a cleaner that is said to be used in all military weapons.The bore cleaner is MPro7.It is claimed to neutralize corrosive ammo. I have used it for about 10 years on my M48 Yugo Mausers, SKS Yugo,and Finish M39 rifles with great results.But you must always must recoat every thing with gun oil as it also removes the oils in and on the guns.
I found out recently that Windex no longer contains ammonia.
So I mix my own water based cleaner using distilled water, vinegar and ammonia
2 parts Water, 1 part vinegar and 1 part ammonia in a spray bottle
I have shot the Greek stuff and it may be corrosive, I treat it as such.
and I spray the inside of the barrel and gas system and use a bore snake right after shooting.
For years I used this stuff, with a bore snake after shooting and it was great,
Like the OP said, it has to be water based... very important
Last edited by 2K05gt; 03-22-2014, 11:21 PM.* M1 Garand Winchester Oct 8th 1943 ..... * M1 Carbine NPM Nov 1943 .............. * German K98 Mauser BCD 1942 (Russian Capture)
* 1943 Tokarev SVT-40 Tula ..................... * Sino-Soviet 1956 SKS........................ * Colt M16A1 1965 (Clone Lower)
* Mosin Nagant 1943 DDR ....................... * 1944 Mosin Nagant M44 Carbine .......* 1943 Remington Rand 1911A1
* Smith and Wesson M&P 15 (Limited Patriot Series)................................................* Ruger SR9
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That's not totally correct about the M-Pro 7. M-Pro 7 is the BRAND name, but they make several different products. You're showing the combination gun oil/cleaner (its like CLP) but they also make a gun cleaner and a copper solvent as well. This is the cleaner:
The cleaner does indeed clean out corrosive residue and everything else including oil! You should use a coating of their gun oil lpx AFTER you use the cleaner.
It does not "neutralize" the corrosive salts, NOTHING does including ammonia/windex/etc. Its more like a surfactant which gets under the dirt and residue and floats it away. The water in windex dissolves the corrosive salts and helps flush it out, but windex/ammonia does not neutralize them in any way.
The best thing about the M-Pro is that it has virtually NO smell, unlike stuff like Hopes #9.
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Originally posted by Jpm View PostThat's not totally correct about the M-Pro 7. M-Pro 7 is the BRAND name, but they make several different products. You're showing the combination gun oil/cleaner (its like CLP) but they also make a gun cleaner and a copper solvent as well. This is the cleaner:
The cleaner does indeed clean out corrosive residue and everything else including oil! You should use a coating of their gun oil lpx AFTER you use the cleaner.
It does not "neutralize" the corrosive salts, NOTHING does including ammonia/windex/etc. Its more like a surfactant which gets under the dirt and residue and floats it away. The water in windex dissolves the corrosive salts and helps flush it out, but windex/ammonia does not neutralize them in any way.
The best thing about the M-Pro is that it has virtually NO smell, unlike stuff like Hopes #9.* M1 Garand Winchester Oct 8th 1943 ..... * M1 Carbine NPM Nov 1943 .............. * German K98 Mauser BCD 1942 (Russian Capture)
* 1943 Tokarev SVT-40 Tula ..................... * Sino-Soviet 1956 SKS........................ * Colt M16A1 1965 (Clone Lower)
* Mosin Nagant 1943 DDR ....................... * 1944 Mosin Nagant M44 Carbine .......* 1943 Remington Rand 1911A1
* Smith and Wesson M&P 15 (Limited Patriot Series)................................................* Ruger SR9
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Good old fashion water...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqwdtBVFs-o
Remember that this is from Brownells. They could suggest something they sell. Water must be better than anything they sell. Just saying
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Thoughts:
1). For a Garand using corrosive ammo, the worst is the gas cylinder and oprod end. Its why they made them of stainless steel from day one. The next is the bolt face and action area where gas from the bore comes back as the case is extracted. Clean as best you can, preferrably stripping down.
2). After that, in any barrel, the problem is twofold. The corrosive salts get into the pores of the metal. Cleaning the water sucking corrosive material out of the pores is what hot water does. Other cleaners help get down to the bore itself. Copper removers remove copper and expose the steel barrel pores for water based items to begin working.
2a). Once the steel is clean of powder fouling and copper deposits AND once the corrosive salts are removed, you still need a steel protectant added. Some of the USGI bore cleaners dried and left a water based oil in the bore after the carrier water was wiped out and the rest evaporated. They also had mild copper cleaning properties and removed powder fouling. Repetition was usually successful.
3). If you merely coat a bore with an oil/grease, the corrosive salts pull water right through your oil/grease and form runt under the oil/grease.
4). If the corrosive salts are buried under copper fouling, same result. Water gets under the copper and rusts the steel.
5). I really don't have anything to add to the sticky. It works. If you do the work.
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So much fuss about nothing. If corrosive primers were so destructive then how come millions of rifles survived? Answer, Cleaning properly. I have shot tons of corrosive ammo, through my Mosins, Garands, Springfields, Mausers, FN's...never had a problem with salt corrosion. If you are so paranoid about your cleaning procedure, buy a can of USGI Rifle Bore Cleaner, Mil-C-372B, NSN 6850-224-6657, Haskon Inc, DSA 600-74-C-1254, 8 FL Oz....and use it as the millions of GI's have for the past 50+ years....my 8 oz can has lasted me 15 years plus. For info: I have seen ( and own) a British Enfield that the previous owner only cleaned with Hoppes, and only cleaned MAYBE once a year....when I purchased it it had a very fine coating of rust in the bore, ( I got it for $100 because of the " rusty bore"), I cleaned it up and it is still the most accurate bolt Mil surp I have and that's even with using the nasty surplus cordite rounds.Last edited by 917601; 02-28-2017, 10:55 AM.
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Originally posted by 917601 View PostSo much fuss about nothing. If corrosive primers were so destructive then how come millions of rifles survived? Answer, Cleaning properly. I have shot tons of corrosive ammo, through my Mosins, Garands, Springfields, Mausers, FN's...never had a problem with salt corrosion. If you are so paranoid about your cleaning procedure, buy a can of USGI Rifle Bore Cleaner, Mil-C-372B, NSN 6850-224-6657, Haskon Inc, DSA 600-74-C-1254, 8 FL Oz....and use it as the millions of GI's have for the past 50+ years....my 8 oz can has lasted me 15 years plus. For info: I have seen ( and own) a British Enfield that the previous owner only cleaned with Hoppes, and only cleaned MAYBE once a year....when I purchased it it had a very fine coating of rust in the bore, ( I got it for $100 because of the " rusty bore"), I cleaned it up and it is still the most accurate bolt Mil surp I have and that's even with using the nasty surplus cordite rounds.
Clean and lube most everything with Lucas Oil Marine Grease.
RedPeace, ...through Marksmanship...
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For an interesting view of the topic, with similar ideas to my post, see:
https://ammo.com/primer-type/corrosive-ammo
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