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  #21  
Old 11-08-2019, 07:01 PM
TSimonetti TSimonetti is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyP View Post
No stain, the new walnut is taking on a nice tone as is.
I prefer my Garands with more brown and red, but that's a really nice golden walnut color.


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  #22  
Old 11-08-2019, 09:23 PM
RandyP RandyP is offline
 
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I'll take your word for it - I don't have the color acuity to see the difference - my eyes have always been an 8 pack of crayons, I see duplicates in a 32 pack - lol
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  #23  
Old 11-09-2019, 09:41 AM
RandyP RandyP is offline
 
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I did 3 coats of 50/50 Real Milk Company Tung Oil and Mineral Spirits on the new walnut stock, light sanding between coats with a 3M Final Stripping Pad from Home depot, then a tack cloth. I mixed the stuff in a small glass jar, like for baby food. Mineral Spirits can interact with some plastics. Thinning the oil for the initial coats lets it absorb better into the new wood.The final coat was pure Tung Oil and I'll leave it to hang and cure over the next few days.

For anyone interested, the small white plastic 8oz jug of their tung oil should be enough to treat a couple dozen Garand stocks. Just like my 1lb tub of STP hi temp wheel bearing grease from that noted Garand supplier AutoZone will last for more decades than anyone in my family will exist. lol

And if I can treat a new CMP gun stock, anyone can treat a new CMP gun stock. YouTube vids and forum posts on the interwebs can make it sound far more daunting to us total rookies than it really is. Wipe the stuff on with a small rag, let it sit for a while, wipe it off with a cotton cloth, and let it dry. Buff down any fuzz with the 3M pad and wipe with the tack cloth. Repeat as many times as you like for the finish you want.

Easy-Peasey and affordable. I forced myself to remember that this is a Battle Rifle, not a Faberge Egg - lol
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Last edited by RandyP; 11-09-2019 at 11:08 AM.
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  #24  
Old 11-09-2019, 03:05 PM
Danny Danny is online now
 
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Originally Posted by RandyP View Post
Honestly in person it looks a lot better than the pics, especially the gas tube -lol. But overall it is MUCH nicer than I expected from a 'lowly' Rack Grade.

Internals are of course bone dry and will be properly oiled/greased before I re-assemble the rifle.

I removed the buttplate and am in the process of applying some Real Milk Company Tung oil to the stock and handguards. First coat was a 50/50 mix of oil/mineral spirits. I applied it, waited a few minutes and then rubbed off any excess with a cotton cloth.

The woods are currently hanging from some picture wire in a doorway to dry. Once each coat dries I will lightly sand them with a 3M pad followed by a tack cloth and then another coat or two of 50/50. Once those dry over a couple days I will apply a final coat of pure Tung Oil and again allow it to dry.

Then I can assemble the rifle. If this critter functions half as well as it looks, I will be more than delighted.

You are putting oil on wood. I am not sure how there would be anything to sand. If you sand, you might just end up cutting through the stain on the wood, exposing raw, differently colored wood.
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  #25  
Old 11-09-2019, 03:33 PM
RandyP RandyP is offline
 
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Point taken - thanks - I'm not really 'sanding' the surface, more just lightly knocking down any fuzz raised by the oil and spirits. To sand or not? I have found a number of articles on the interwebs detailing both approaches. I ain't no cabinet maker ner nuthin'. lol If I dislike these results over time I can always change them.

So far, so good anyway. The surface left is not 'shiny' and should prove a worthy gift come Xmas.
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Last edited by RandyP; 11-09-2019 at 05:12 PM.
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2019, 06:15 PM
Danny Danny is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSimonetti View Post
I prefer my Garands with more brown and red, but that's a really nice golden walnut color.


It looks really good to me, about like what I have seen on the Collector and Correct Grade Garands at the North Store.
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Looking for Rifles:
Springfield Armory 5,940,259, 5,840,184, 4,238,435 and 2,023,912.
Harrington & Richardson 5,549,399.

Words that are always found together:
USA: Liquor Store and Robbed, Pressure Cooker and Explode
Germany:
Air Show and Rammstein


"REPO" M1 Parts: The parts you buy that they come to take back later on.
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  #27  
Old 11-10-2019, 07:42 AM
ROC ROC is offline
 
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I'd just find a nice NOS gas cylinder and lock. Sell that to to someone that needs a rough looking GC. If you paint it, it still will not look as good as everything else on your rifle. JMO.
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  #28  
Old 11-10-2019, 08:06 AM
RandyP RandyP is offline
 
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Originally Posted by ROC View Post
I'd just find a nice NOS gas cylinder and lock. Sell that to to someone that needs a rough looking GC. If you paint it, it still will not look as good as everything else on your rifle. JMO.
Great advice - I do believe I will leave the parts 'as is' other than a light clean up of any rust. Since this will be a Xmas present I'll let the new owner decide if any changes are in order…… and on their dime - lol
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  #29  
Old 11-10-2019, 01:25 PM
Whitpusmc Whitpusmc is offline
 
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My own experience with oiling raw wood is that the stain, or the water If steaming, raises wood fibers up above the surrounding surface. It’s evident to the hand while holding though not bad by any means.

While you can just build up more oil to cover, taking a light “gentle sanding” with the 3m pad or 0000 steel wool can just knock off those fibers and give you a smoother surface.

Note that even this very minor alteration to a collector grade stock is heresy to some. For a new CMP wood stock its completely up to you and what you want from your new rifle.

Actual sanding with anything with real grit to it will absolutely cause issues with your new oil coats and will require more coats of oil to blend back in.

Whit


Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny View Post
You are putting oil on wood. I am not sure how there would be anything to sand. If you sand, you might just end up cutting through the stain on the wood, exposing raw, differently colored wood.
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  #30  
Old 11-10-2019, 01:39 PM
Danny Danny is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitpusmc View Post
My own experience with oiling raw wood is that the stain, or the water If steaming, raises wood fibers up above the surrounding surface. It’s evident to the hand while holding though not bad by any means.

While you can just build up more oil to cover, taking a light “gentle sanding” with the 3m pad or 0000 steel wool can just knock off those fibers and give you a smoother surface.

Note that even this very minor alteration to a collector grade stock is heresy to some. For a new CMP wood stock its completely up to you and what you want from your new rifle.

Actual sanding with anything with real grit to it will absolutely cause issues with your new oil coats and will require more coats of oil to blend back in.

Whit
I don't have a lot of stock experience, but not long ago, I did a CMP type stock. I stripped all the parts with furniture stripper, then sanded only the handguards, but not the stock. There was very little wood to work with on the stock. All parts were Scotch Brite treated. I coated with Raw Linseed Oil, then stained all pieces to match, then in a week or so did another Linseed Oil coat. After some time, the handguards looked dry, but the stock looked ok. The lack of sanding did not allow the oil to penetrate as well on the stock. From now on, I will sand equally. I will have to selectively oil the handguards to match the stock
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looking for Rifles:
Springfield Armory 5,940,259, 5,840,184, 4,238,435 and 2,023,912.
Harrington & Richardson 5,549,399.

Words that are always found together:
USA: Liquor Store and Robbed, Pressure Cooker and Explode
Germany:
Air Show and Rammstein


"REPO" M1 Parts: The parts you buy that they come to take back later on.
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