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  #21  
Old 11-12-2019, 12:45 AM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cobb, N California
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Originally Posted by RandyP View Post
My Special rack Grade, received last Wednesday had a quite tight but removeable new stock too. I immediately did a real tung oil treatment and will be taking down the hanging wood parts today to re-assemble with a fully lubed/greased set of internals.

Hopefully the oil addition won't have caused any assembly problems. but as others have mentioned, tight is good. I have no immediate plans on doing any wood removal.
Good, because if you do you'll be making a serious mistake and probably be buying a new stock again in a year or so. At the Springfield Armory they often used a very large wooden mallet to close the trigger guard on new rifles.

Wood compresses over time and use and the receiver will bed itself into the wood and actually enhance accuracy. Quit disassembling the rifle and allow that to happen. You do not have to take it apart to do routine cleaning so don't. All you accomplish by doing so is cause wear on the gas cylinder barrel splines and make it harder for the wood to compress where it wants to. Everytime you disassemble and reassemble it takes as many as 10 rounds for the receiver to settle into the recoil lugs and top before accuracy settles out again.

Getting a receiver out of a tight stock is as simple as removing the trigger group, turning the rifle over, holding it muzzle down at the pistol grip with your right hand, at about a 45, with your left hand under it and tapping the front sight/muzzle sharply on your carpet. It will generally pop right out. If not, use more than a tap.

Don't believe much of what you see the Brownell Cavemen do in their videos. Banging the stock on a table to get the receiver out is a Neanderthal grade caveman method. I wouldn't do it with your rifle let alone one of mine. I could beat my NM rifle on a table for two days and the receiver wouldn't budge it's so tight. But using the above method it takes only a couple of moderate taps.

Remember, both Brownells and Midway also tell you to slobber grease in the trigger group in their videos. An absolute no-no.

Throw away the CLP for use in an M1 and do some honest research on the proper way to lubricate your rifle. Grease and medium weight oil in the right places. CLP on the trigger group lugs is a waste of time. That is a grease point. All CLP will do there is cause excess wear on the lugs. Research, research. Whatever you do don't go out and shoot the rifle if all you used was CLP to lubricate it. It ain't no AR, don't treat it as such.

Last edited by lapriester; 11-12-2019 at 01:03 AM.
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  #22  
Old 11-12-2019, 07:11 AM
RandyP RandyP is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Chicago, IL
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I agree that CLP is a not a great choice for a Garand, nor do I like the white greases. I used some kind of plain old gun oil and STP wheel bearing grease on mine.

To date the disassembly count on MY rifle is.... once. lol
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  #23  
Old 11-13-2019, 11:28 PM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cobb, N California
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I agree that CLP is a not a great choice for a Garand, nor do I like the white greases. I used some kind of plain old gun oil and STP wheel bearing grease on mine.

To date the disassembly count on MY rifle is.... once. lol
Lubriplate 130 is nasty stuff. Yellows over time, dries out and hardens. I have a whole can I bought a long time ago before I knew better. Used it once or twice and put it on a shelf somewhere. For years I've just used the brown, surplus Vietnam era gun grease and Corrosion X medium weight oil. The last 1# can of the grease lasted me 10 years and I gave a lot to friends or I'd still be using that can. The Corrosion X doubles as a very high quality storage oil.
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