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  #31  
Old 02-22-2013, 02:19 AM
scobby scobby is offline
 
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Does anyone know or heard about a cleaner that is said to be used in all military weapons.The bore cleaner is MPro7.It is claimed to neutralize corrosive ammo. I have used it for about 10 years on my M48 Yugo Mausers, SKS Yugo,and Finish M39 rifles with great results.But you must always must recoat every thing with gun oil as it also removes the oils in and on the guns.
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  #32  
Old 09-11-2013, 04:13 PM
joker18 joker18 is offline
 
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Lots of opinions, but the original sticky was the best. Priming salts are just that, a mineral salt. The only reason Windex does anything is due to the fact that it's mostly water. Yeah the ammonia might loosen up the copper, but there are better products out there for cleaning out the copper.
Warm soapy water is the best and is what the military used to use. Drying the bore completely helps and then a good lubricant to prevent air oxidation of the unprotected metal.
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  #33  
Old 01-01-2014, 11:46 AM
.Steve. .Steve. is offline
 
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Joker, I agree. I re-read it and nothing needs changed. Clean the salts and clean the metal fouling and my Turk 7.92mm and Ruski 7.62mm bores are still beautiful. Being cleanable from the rear, it doesn't even wear them out to clean them.
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  #34  
Old 01-09-2014, 02:36 PM
Rakin Rakin is offline
 
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I would be interested in feedback from anyone who shot Corrosive in a M1 Garand and what special steps if any they took considering the gas system. It is obvious that bolt action would be easier to clean but I bet there is some good advice out there. (besides avoiding).
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  #35  
Old 02-19-2014, 08:15 PM
sigman2 sigman2 is offline
 
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A complete strip down and thorough cleaning would be prudent.
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  #36  
Old 03-22-2014, 11:12 PM
2K05gt 2K05gt is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scobby View Post
Does anyone know or heard about a cleaner that is said to be used in all military weapons.The bore cleaner is MPro7.It is claimed to neutralize corrosive ammo. I have used it for about 10 years on my M48 Yugo Mausers, SKS Yugo,and Finish M39 rifles with great results.But you must always must recoat every thing with gun oil as it also removes the oils in and on the guns.
I use it on every firearm I have, but it's not a cleaner it's an oil the repels salt, even salt water




I found out recently that Windex no longer contains ammonia.

So I mix my own water based cleaner using distilled water, vinegar and ammonia

2 parts Water, 1 part vinegar and 1 part ammonia in a spray bottle

I have shot the Greek stuff and it may be corrosive, I treat it as such.
and I spray the inside of the barrel and gas system and use a bore snake right after shooting.

For years I used this stuff, with a bore snake after shooting and it was great,
Like the OP said, it has to be water based... very important

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* M1 Garand Winchester Oct 8th 1943 ......... * M1 Carbine NPM Nov 1943 ....... * German K98 Mauser BCD 1942 (Russian Capture)
* Sino-Soviet 1956 SKS............................ * Colt M16A1 1968 (Clone Lower)
* Mosin Nagant 1943 DDR ....................... * 1944 Mosin Nagant M44 Carbine .......* 1943 Remington Rand 1911A1
* Smith and Wesson M&P 15 (Limited Patriot Series).................................................. ..* Ruger SR9

Last edited by 2K05gt; 03-22-2014 at 11:21 PM.
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  #37  
Old 03-23-2014, 03:07 PM
Jpm Jpm is offline
 
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That's not totally correct about the M-Pro 7. M-Pro 7 is the BRAND name, but they make several different products. You're showing the combination gun oil/cleaner (its like CLP) but they also make a gun cleaner and a copper solvent as well. This is the cleaner:



The cleaner does indeed clean out corrosive residue and everything else including oil! You should use a coating of their gun oil lpx AFTER you use the cleaner.

It does not "neutralize" the corrosive salts, NOTHING does including ammonia/windex/etc. Its more like a surfactant which gets under the dirt and residue and floats it away. The water in windex dissolves the corrosive salts and helps flush it out, but windex/ammonia does not neutralize them in any way.

The best thing about the M-Pro is that it has virtually NO smell, unlike stuff like Hopes #9.
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  #38  
Old 03-23-2014, 06:16 PM
2K05gt 2K05gt is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpm View Post
That's not totally correct about the M-Pro 7. M-Pro 7 is the BRAND name, but they make several different products. You're showing the combination gun oil/cleaner (its like CLP) but they also make a gun cleaner and a copper solvent as well. This is the cleaner:



The cleaner does indeed clean out corrosive residue and everything else including oil! You should use a coating of their gun oil lpx AFTER you use the cleaner.

It does not "neutralize" the corrosive salts, NOTHING does including ammonia/windex/etc. Its more like a surfactant which gets under the dirt and residue and floats it away. The water in windex dissolves the corrosive salts and helps flush it out, but windex/ammonia does not neutralize them in any way.

The best thing about the M-Pro is that it has virtually NO smell, unlike stuff like Hopes #9.
Thanks I went and picked up some of this today, since I really like their products. and your right very little smell.
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* M1 Garand Winchester Oct 8th 1943 ......... * M1 Carbine NPM Nov 1943 ....... * German K98 Mauser BCD 1942 (Russian Capture)
* Sino-Soviet 1956 SKS............................ * Colt M16A1 1968 (Clone Lower)
* Mosin Nagant 1943 DDR ....................... * 1944 Mosin Nagant M44 Carbine .......* 1943 Remington Rand 1911A1
* Smith and Wesson M&P 15 (Limited Patriot Series).................................................. ..* Ruger SR9
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  #39  
Old 10-01-2014, 10:09 PM
spankybear spankybear is offline
 
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Good old fashion water...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqwdtBVFs-o

Remember that this is from Brownells. They could suggest something they sell. Water must be better than anything they sell. Just saying
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  #40  
Old 03-29-2016, 12:56 PM
.Steve. .Steve. is offline
 
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Thoughts:

1). For a Garand using corrosive ammo, the worst is the gas cylinder and oprod end. Its why they made them of stainless steel from day one. The next is the bolt face and action area where gas from the bore comes back as the case is extracted. Clean as best you can, preferrably stripping down.

2). After that, in any barrel, the problem is twofold. The corrosive salts get into the pores of the metal. Cleaning the water sucking corrosive material out of the pores is what hot water does. Other cleaners help get down to the bore itself. Copper removers remove copper and expose the steel barrel pores for water based items to begin working.

2a). Once the steel is clean of powder fouling and copper deposits AND once the corrosive salts are removed, you still need a steel protectant added. Some of the USGI bore cleaners dried and left a water based oil in the bore after the carrier water was wiped out and the rest evaporated. They also had mild copper cleaning properties and removed powder fouling. Repetition was usually successful.

3). If you merely coat a bore with an oil/grease, the corrosive salts pull water right through your oil/grease and form runt under the oil/grease.

4). If the corrosive salts are buried under copper fouling, same result. Water gets under the copper and rusts the steel.

5). I really don't have anything to add to the sticky. It works. If you do the work.
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