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#11
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your handguards still look way too "fat." slimming these down is 50% of the work in this process:
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#12
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I slimmed them down to USGI Post War Size, I used a set of Correct Grade handguards for a template and calipers to measure with.
Dont think you can get much more accurate than that
__________________
"I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ... |
#13
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Very good Post Orlando, Thank you very much
Steve |
#14
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I smell sawdust in my future.....Thanks for the great info guys!
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#15
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Orlando,
Thanks for the post and remember to save your Walnut sanding "dust" for future "wood filler" needs! Randy |
#16
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I think your guards look great. Very nice helpful posting. Many people are visual and just reading how to do it is not enough. The photo spread should be helpful to folks in understanding the specific problematic areas. Well done! ![]() |
#17
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![]() Very nice post, I learned some stuff! (Only because of the pics LoL)
__________________
Guy Wilson CMP Customer# 168038 Be careful what you wish for..... http://m1collectorsclub.com |
#18
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Im checking the new rear hand guard and it seems a bit long. I lined up the clip cut out with the old hand guard and the rear end of the new guard is about 3/16" longer. Should I just cut it off to the same overall lenght of the old one? SHould the rear hand guard be able to slid fore and aft a bit? I think I remember something about the op rod notch also.
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#19
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Old topic but I had a question, how much wood should I remove from under the barrel on the stock? Do you want the barrel to rest on the wood at all?
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#20
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The barrel doesnt normally contact underneath but usually if it rubs it will be on the sides of the barrel channel. Look at first picture
You can assembly the action in the stock with the rear handguard removed and slide a piece of paper under the barrel There should be no contact
__________________
"I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ... |
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