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  #1  
Old 03-30-2010, 09:34 PM
The Apprentice The Apprentice is offline
 
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Location: Umatilla,Or
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Default Bead Blasting Garand Parts

Question I one has unlimited access to a Glass bead blaster and a Crushed walnut Shell blaster can this be used and not damage a Receiver?
I have some pitting under my heel an to wards the front of the receiver Mary's up to the bolt. I do plan on sending in these parts to get reparkerised.
Thank for you input..
Jeff Lee
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Old 03-31-2010, 03:34 AM
Ericc Ericc is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Apprentice View Post
Question I one has unlimited access to a Glass bead blaster and a Crushed walnut Shell blaster can this be used and not damage a Receiver?
I have some pitting under my heel an to wards the front of the receiver Mary's up to the bolt. I do plan on sending in these parts to get reparkerised.
Thank for you input..
Jeff Lee
The Glass beads will leave a strong matt finish on the parts after it removes the parkerizing. I don't think walnut would get it done. Soda also cant remove parkerizing.

I use a real fine aluminum oxide (220 grit) to blast the parts. It leaves the parts smooth and takes off the parkerizing real quick.

Eric
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:42 PM
Rondog Rondog is offline
 
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Just let the folks doing the reparking take care of the beadblasting and prep work. Otherwise, they may have to re-do what you've already done anyway. What you do might not be suitable as prep, or it might get rusty in-between.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:53 PM
The Apprentice The Apprentice is offline
 
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Default Aluminum Oxide= Eric's Choice

Thanks for the reply Eric we have some of this at the plant as well. I am going to try it on some small parts. That I might not send in. After reading Ron's post I think I will leave the reciver alone and have the pros do it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericc View Post
The Glass beads will leave a strong matt finish on the parts after it removes the parkerizing. I don't think walnut would get it done. Soda also cant remove parkerizing.

I use a real fine aluminum oxide (220 grit) to blast the parts. It leaves the parts smooth and takes off the parkerizing real quick.

Eric
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  #5  
Old 04-01-2010, 01:04 AM
Rondog Rondog is offline
 
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Location: Parker, Commurado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Apprentice View Post
Thanks for the reply Eric we have some of this at the plant as well. I am going to try it on some small parts. That I might not send in. After reading Ron's post I think I will leave the reciver alone and have the pros do it.
Good plan. You most likely wouldn't get a price break anyway, and probably no warranty on the park job. If you're just dying to blast some stuff, I've got a bunch of old Willys Jeep parts you can work on!
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Old 04-01-2010, 08:30 PM
drmsparks drmsparks is offline
 
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I'm looking forward to trying some parkerizing (the PVC tanks using hot water tank heating elements are brilliant). I'm also gathering stuff for surface prep.

Does the matte finish on the bead blasted parts affect the parkerizing?

and How does the 220 affect the heel stamps?

Thanks

Dave
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  #7  
Old 04-01-2010, 09:42 PM
Ericc Ericc is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drmsparks View Post
I'm looking forward to trying some parkerizing (the PVC tanks using hot water tank heating elements are brilliant). I'm also gathering stuff for surface prep.

Does the matte finish on the bead blasted parts affect the parkerizing?

and How does the 220 affect the heel stamps?

Thanks

Dave
The aluminum oxide 220 grit stuff acts like a parkerizing eraser. It's really amazing, it takes maybe 1 minute to do a receiver.

I really like the aluminum oxide media because it does very little to the actual metal surface. All the original machining marks are still clearly visible. It would never hurt anything stamped into the metal.

I take my blasted parts and immediately put them into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with only RO water for about 20 seconds to remove any media that might be stuck on the surface. (A quick wash under the faucet would probably do the same.) From there they go right into the parkerizing tank.

For op-rods I glued up an ABS sewer pipe with a cap glued on one end. I fill the pipe with boiling water and let it sit while I'm blasting. When I'm done blasting I pour out the not hot water and replace it with the near boiling parkerizing solution. Then I stick the op-rod in with the piston facing down.

The hot water step heats up the pipe and keeps your parkerizing solution at optimum temperature longer.

-- Dont forget to degrease the inside of the op-rod before putting it in your tank. Some people cork the end if you dont want to refinish the inside. If you dont plug it then it will take about 50 rounds for the spring to smooth out the finish on the inside. It will sound a little gritty as the spring slides on the fresh parkerizing.

Eric
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