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Old 05-21-2011, 12:17 PM
DAT M60A3 DAT M60A3 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Joliet IL
Posts: 602
Default Zeroing a m84 scope

Last week I bought a great M1D at the north store, I don't have a scope for her right now, but I'm saving my money to buy a M84 scope, anyway here is my question Do I need to know any special
about zeroing the scope, is it just like zeroing any type of scopes?

lasty any one have a M84 scope that they may want to sell at just price?
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:54 PM
HughUno HughUno is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 3,067

think about WHERE the scope is mounted on an M1D and M1C..

unlike a scope mounted over the barrel center-line, every time you change the distance, you have to adjust BOTH elevation AND windage.

(frankly, it's a pretty poor scoping system)

PS, I don't have a clue what "at just" price is, but USGI M84 scopes in good shape sell for 800 bucks these days (or more).

Last edited by HughUno; 05-21-2011 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 05-21-2011, 01:10 PM
JohnF JohnF is offline
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: California
Posts: 235

This may help. Originally posted by Gervais on the old Jouster Forum.

Adjusting and Zeroing the M84
Posted By: Pershing Darrow Gervais
Date: Thursday, 16 September 1999

The M84 telescope is equipped with a post and cross-hair reticle that may confuse the shooter previously experienced with cross-hair reticles only. As some have discovered, the heavy post subtends about 3 m.o.a. and obscures a significant portion of the target if it's intersection with the cross-hair is used as the aiming point. Also, the cross-hair appears about 12 m.o.a. lower than mechanical/optical axis of the telescope, possibly causing some rifles to shoot abnormally high at short range. In short, use the top of the post as the aiming point as you do with the iron sights.

This procedure is used to adjust the mechanical limits of the windage and elevation knobs, and to mechanically zero their respective scales to the rifle on which the scope is mounted. The windage and elevation knobs are held in place by the larger of the two round nuts in the center of each knob. The larger nut secures the knob to the detent, which in turn is secured to the knob shaft. The small inner nut prevents the larger nut from backing off the shaft when making adjustments to the knobs. The round nuts can be turned with a flathead screwdriver with clearance ground out to clear the small inner nut.

First hold the knob in place and unscrew the larger nut about 2.5 turns or until it is stopped buy the small inner nut. You can now disengage the knob from the detent/shaft and turn the knob independently of the shaft. The detent/shaft is capable of approximately 720* of rotation while the knob is limited to about 350* when secured to the detent.

If you could not previously zero the rifle because one or both knobs had reached their mechanical limit, you can now adjust these limits. When the knob is at it's limit, lift the knob to disengage the detent/shaft and rotate the knob X* opposite the direction in which you reached the limit. Lower the knob to engage the detent/shaft at this new point. You have now moved the mechanical limit X* past the point of the previous limit thereby allowing further adjustment in that direction. You should again try to zero the rifle and repeat this adjustment as required, remembering the rotation of the shaft/detent is limited to 720*.

After the rifle is zeroed, mechanically zero the scales on the knobs as explained below. If the rifle was previously zeroed, and you haven't moved the knobs, you only need to lift the knob to disengage the detent/shaft; rotate the knob independently of the detent/shaft until the correct point on the scale is aligned with the pointer; lower the knob to engage the detent/shaft and tighten the larger nut. Do the same to the other knob and your done and you are finished.
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:02 PM
1911fred 1911fred is offline
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 19
Default poor scoping system?

I used to think the M-84/Garand combination would be difficult to shoot accurately, too, since the scope is one inch left of center-line. But some simple math convinced me that with my rifle zeroed at 200 yards, the bullet impacts 1'' right at the muzzle, 1/2" right at 100 yards, dead on at 200, 1/2" left at 300 and 1" left at 400 yards. Basically, put a silver dollar on your forehead and I'll hit part of it out to 400 yards, assuming I allowed the proper elevation.
(which is typical of all scopes) Not exactly a target scope, especially at 2.5X, but for plain old sniping........not too shabby.
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Old 05-22-2011, 12:08 AM
ODCMP ODCMP is online now
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 843

The other theory is to zero the scope and bore parallel......2" offset at 100 yards......2" offset at 1000 yards. No guess work and the accuracy gets better as the distances get more critical.
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