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  #11  
Old 04-11-2011, 07:31 PM
Mississippi Kid Mississippi Kid is offline
 
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You'd probably do great if you posted them on the traders pages here.Lots of C&R guys here would be glad to buy them,it's free to post and no fees except shipping.

Start with taking about a dozen good photos of each one .Areas to display in your pics include the the rear of the receiver with the maker and serial number,markings on the top of the barrel and the front sight,muzzle and barrel crown,right side of the rear sight,left side of the stock sling well with the markings if any showing and when you learn to field strip the carbines show the bolt lug markings,trigger housing,slide markings.Also good top ,bottom and side views.It's a little work but when you have nice looking carbines like those the more you show the better it will sell.

Remember the object is to help the widow with as much proceeds as the product will bring .Don't be afraid to start with the high end of the price range and work your way down if nobody bites.

What manufacturer is the para stocked carbine ?If it's not original I'd put it in a regular stock and sell the para stock seperately.

Looking at the Inland,the WW II C clip sling looks nice and is worth extra $$$ if original.Nothing says it has to go with the carbine,sell it seperately. Oilers ,magazines,ammunition,extra parts too.Some are worth more than others but all are accessories,seperate them to increase proceeds.

If it's the import you mentioned,even so it still looks nice.The more correct parts,the better the value.If the barrel has a good bore and muzzle and it has a lot of correct parts on it I'd start around $650.00 ,more if any rare collectable parts show up( Rock-Ola,Winchester,S'G',Irwin Pedersen). If it has a bunch of average mixed manufacturer parts then $500.00 firm.That import mark on the barrel kills collector value otherwise if it had no etched serial number or marks it would be a $800.00 + rifle , but it would make a great looking shooter .

Good luck and thanks for helping .
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2011, 07:42 PM
evi1joe evi1joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Yep. It's just a copy of the serial number....and there's a copy of it stamped on the stock. I'm slowly gathering the nerve to break down a gun that doesn't belong to me--it would seem that there's no real danger of springs or parts going shooting across the room.

Thanks so much for the Data Sheet--that will be helpful.

This is a much bigger job than I had imagined. There are like 20 rifles (from M14s to Garands to Swiss Mausers to a Springfield 1875 or something like that), 20 pistols (from a Thunder Range Colt Police Model A to a Nickel Colt Python to a bunch of old break open guns) and even a ton of swords from the civil war and stuff. Buckets of civil war bullets, arrowheads, artifacts, a 40-50 volume set on the Civil War, etc. She insists on paying me, and I was going to charge her 5% commission (the ATF said it was okay), but now I'm wondering if 7.5-10 isn't more fair...what with all the research I'm doing.

I'm in JAX, FL, so if anyone in the area wanted to meet up and look at 5 carbines, I could pick up the other two. I'm trying to convince the widow's daughter (my college friend) to let her husband have the paratrooper, since he wants one...but she's anti-gun. He and I are trying to spin it as a memento, but I don't know if the keepsake argument will work (especially now that they have a new baby boy in the house and she's in protective lioness mode).
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2011, 07:56 PM
tenOC tenOC is offline
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Isn't Jaxville the largest city by land mass in the USA?

Maybe you're beyond this point...
Start slow on the tear down if you want to get your feet wet.
Remove the magazine. Unclip any sling at the front barrel band. Loosen that barrel band screw on the right side and just leave it loose--it's not supposed to come off. Take a writing pen (or similar non marring plastic piece) and push down on the barrel band spring head while slipping the barrel band/bayonet lug forward. The handguard will fall off and the entire rifle will fall out of the stock, so be ready and hold it over something soft. From there you can see the trigger housing markings, hammer markings, maybe the sear too. That'll give you a start.

ETA: When the stock is removed, sometimes the trigger housing pin will fall loose when you turn the rifle side to side. Lose it and you'll have to find a replacement before the housing will stay in place again.

Remember that early features are more desirable on these--and they're harder to find. Most of what I see is late stuff.
2nd pic down, both have later round bolts, one has a later 4 rivet handguard, both rear sites are late--one stamped one milled. The slide on the paratrooper one is late--type V or VI. Looks like both have flip safeties (late). The mag catches look like they have the M2 lug extension (late). The serial number etching is not a benefit either. The stock being etched is not good either. Make someone a deal on all 5 for one price if the others are like these.

Last edited by tenOC; 04-11-2011 at 08:10 PM.
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2011, 11:36 PM
Sport45 Sport45 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evi1joe
There are like 20 rifles (from M14s ....
I hope that's a M1A. If it's a M14 there will be a ton of hoops to jump through if it was registered or possibly some dancing around to avoid a trip to club fed if it wasn't.

DO NOT take a M14 into your possession for any reason without the proper tax stamp or you will be taking a huge risk yourself.
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  #15  
Old 04-12-2011, 07:25 AM
dpd3672 dpd3672 is offline
 
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If you're going to try doing a Data Sheet, I did a little walkthrough for beginners here.

As far as taking the gun apart, it's pretty easy. There's a good walkthrough here with lots of photos. It has links to disassembling the trigger group (pretty easy) and the bolt (a bit trickier) as well. If you get stuck on any part, try You Tube, there's lots of videos showing how to strip and reassemble the gun.
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  #16  
Old 04-12-2011, 07:58 AM
tenOC tenOC is offline
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I don't think I would recommend tearing down the trigger group and bolt. Based on the late features of the rifles, there isn't anything in those small pieces that is worth the learning curve of tear down. The bolts are a challenge until you find the tools that work for you.
Not tearing them down he can still see the housing markings and type, the sear type and some of the markings, hammer type and markings, bolt maker and occasional firing pin markings.

He's got other types of arms to learn at the same time.
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  #17  
Old 04-12-2011, 08:08 AM
toadranch1 toadranch1 is offline
 
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Location: S.C.
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Another site here, for field stripping (plenty for your needs) the carbine and Garand.

www.surplusrifle.com
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  #18  
Old 04-12-2011, 08:13 AM
evi1joe evi1joe is offline
 
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The M14 is a Polytech version...imported from China, semi-auto. Seems like they go from $950 to $1200, but I haven't really looked into that one yet.
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  #19  
Old 04-12-2011, 08:24 AM
toadranch1 toadranch1 is offline
 
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Polytech M14 is more realistically $750-950, depending on condition. $1200 is way high.
If you sell it for $1200, and there's still takers, PM me please. I have one I picked up for $800 that's beautiful. I could part with it for that kinda money!
Seriously, $750-950, and you aren't likely to geet $900.
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  #20  
Old 04-12-2011, 08:42 AM
evi1joe evi1joe is offline
 
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Yeah, again, I just did a search for "Polytech M14 WTS" and found them ranging from $900-$1100, and one for $1500...I think it all depends on what it comes with, when it was made (pre-89 import), etc. It looks great, but I noticed the flash-hider doesn't look real. I think it's a mixed bag--so far, I'm betting the 6" Nickel Colt Python Brand New in a display box will be worth the most of everything (they can go for $1400-$1750 it seems)...but she had the swords appraised and some of them had crazy numbers (wholesale) on them.
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