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  #11  
Old 04-20-2018, 10:59 PM
Quarterbore Quarterbore is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Valley Forge, PA
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I have a Brownells action wrench, I’ve done Ruger Revolvers, Remington 700s and FALs with it before so all I had to buy was the head for the 1903.

The barrel vise is something that did not work well. I have a Brownells barrel vice and they sell inserts but they don’t have the correct insert for a 1903. So, I tried a 1.2-inch which fits the first step of the barrel. It never held even with a good layer of rosin. Instead, I used an old FAL barrel vice I had used in my FAL building days 10 - 15 years ago when those kits were cheap and it clamped on the thinner part of the barrel solid.

I have a very robust vise, an old made in the USA Craftsman, and I was a little worried but she held the FAL barrel vise. My Brownells barrel vise bolts directly to my work bench.

Now, Brownells does make a molding kit to make your own custom insert. It was out of stock and I don’t see me building any more FALs so I used what I had.

As for my pair of drillers they are very close. The only thing I need to recheck is the front of the receiver to make sure it is square and weld free but I’ve been very careful so it should be. The other areas are cosmetic as long as the parts go back in.

I need to decide now if I want to buy or rent a finish reamer. This was fun but I really don’t need the four 1903A3s I have now much less do more of them! Still, this was enough fun I want to do a M1 Drill Rifle at some point.

Last edited by Quarterbore; 04-22-2018 at 11:43 AM.
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  #12  
Old 04-21-2018, 10:45 AM
Prince Humperdink Prince Humperdink is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarterbore View Post

The barrel vise is something that did now work well. I have a Brownells barrel vice and they sell inserts but they donít have the correct insert for a 1903. So, I tried a 1.2-inch which fits the first step of the barrel. It never held even with a good layer of rosin. Instead, I used an old FAL barrel vice I had used in my FAL building days 10 - 15 years ago when those kits were cheap and it clamped on the thinner part of the barrel solid.


I have the same barrel vise,and had the same problem,I got around this by adding a layer on top,and bottom of barrel with thin roofing lead that I had,and then putting on inserts.It's worked well for all the 1903's,and A3's I've done.
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2018, 11:40 AM
32sbct 32sbct is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Chester County Pennsylvania
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Quarterbore, great tutorial. Thanks again for posting your process.
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2018, 11:54 AM
Quarterbore Quarterbore is offline
 
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Location: Valley Forge, PA
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You are welcome but I am sure there is likely other ways to do this. Good fine files work well for me but another member PMd me saying that diamond files worked better for them. In my case, my welds are not hard and I my file with a light touch isnít biting the receiver but did remove the weld.

I have started looking how I am going to refinish the receivers and I understand the rust blueing tends to work well on both the receiver and weld. Parkerizing on the other hand will be very obvious where the weld was.

I am trying to build shooters so I am not worried that the finish is perfect or correct but I donít like ugly shooting partners either.

I need to order what ever I choose to do and I have a couple AK47s I built that need to be done too so trying to decide if I am willing to do them all the same.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2018, 06:52 PM
ceresco ceresco is offline
 
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I have cut many hardwood blocks from my firewood stock..ash oak hickory... they tend to slip even with rosin and all break down after a few uses. The top piece of a M1 barrel vise fits a 1903 barrel a few inches forward of the receiver. I use an aluminum one on top and a steel one on the bottom (with rosin) inside the Brownell vise. This works. On the drill barrels it is not necessary to fool around...just use two large pipe wrenches at 180 degrees to each other. Good Shooting. ...
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2018, 09:32 PM
Brenneman Brenneman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Home of the Hawkeyes
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Looks about like mine. I just finished grinding weld out if a $200 Dipage rifle as well. I used a reinforced fiber disk, a small diamond abrassive bur, another diamond “drum” that was maybe 1/8” and a small sanding drum. Oh and a needle file. Every time ive tried a carbide bur on weld it chaters and bounces to much so i stay away from them now. Lol
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2018, 05:47 AM
Smal Smal is offline
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Quarterbore down at Harbor Freight they have some smaller cutting discs made of a silvery looking metal there much easier to use in that cutoff area and cut much thinner and they last much longer than the fiber wheels for your dremel ,I think you will like using those much better I started using the fiber discs first like you are on the first several 03A3 Drill rifles and found a better solution with those.

Also when you cut that Barrel weld on the original barrel do not worry about using a barrel vise when you have that great big nice vise on your bench just lock that barrel down in it and take a barrel wrench to the 03A3 receiver and pop it off you wont be using that old barrel anyways, Now when you go to instal the new barrel they make a Vice that's powder coated aluminium called the Viper it uses no Rosin or inserts etc ,I lock mine down in a vice like yours on the bench and slide my barrel in it tighten it down good and pop it right off with a receiver wrench I have used it on many different barrels and it never fails if the barrel starts to slip tighten down the bolts more till it stops, Best barrel vise I ever used and you dont have to worry about inserts, rosin etc and its pretty portable you do not have to keep it bolted to your bench and in your way.I think you will really like that Barrel vise.

Now I use this vise regularly and it never failed me also look at the ratings on Brownells for it on the link but they want $71.00 for it the second link I'm gonna save you some money if you decide to try it to the tune of about $15.00

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod58959.aspx


http://shop.otmtactical.com/VIPER-BA...ISE_p_360.html

Now from the guy who designed and made this Vise $58.00 Powder coated or $48.00 not Powder coated and you're going to love this vise trust me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkEoFsKo_pM

If you have to use pipe wrenchs as someone suggested to remove your barrel make sure you take precautions when you put your new barrel on as the teeth on the pipe wrench will cut right in to the shoulder of that 03A3 barrels outside diameter and leave some ugly marks,Now if you have to do it thgat way get you a old Bicycle innertube and cut it in to short little sections like sleves to slip over the barrel 3 or 4 or whatever your comfortable with it all depends on how much touque you use putting that barrel on for how much rubber you use to keep the bite marks of the wrench off your barrel as you tighten it,if you do not have a receiver vice speficaly for your 03A3 action you can use a Vise carefully to mount the barrel and line up the Barrel and reicievers timing marks,Im just telling you all this as the more ways you hear about doing it the better off you are if a problem ever arises .Ill post a few pics of where im at on two of mine shortly

Oh also I did see you mentioned you owned several 03A3 rifles and was thinking you had plenty of the same caliber 03,s, The 03 has one of if not the best action to build a rifle on in my opinion, So what you can do is like I am doing and that is not just sticking to the 30/06 caliber round, one of my builds is a .308 Magnum and ill most likely if I can find a decent deal on a reg .308 or another caliber I have been thinking about getting a barrel for since we have to buy new barrels anyway to replace the old ones why not take the oppurtunity now to change the caliber barrel as long as the bolt will also work with that caliber your switching to then you will have multipule 03A3 custom caliber rifles and much more versitility if you hunt or target pratice or shoot.

Last edited by Big_Red; 05-21-2018 at 11:45 AM. Reason: Learn to multi-quote...merge consecutive posts again
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  #18  
Old 05-20-2018, 07:17 AM
Brenneman Brenneman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Home of the Hawkeyes
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I found that I like the diamond bits in my dremmel work better that the carbide bits did. I just turned the speed down a bit and went slow. Its almost like using sand paper in there but it works a lot faster and cleaner.
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  #19  
Old 05-21-2018, 09:07 AM
Jay_Dubya Jay_Dubya is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Western Maryland
Posts: 118
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Do you guys know if there is anything (chemical?) you can apply to the bare steel that will change the color of the stainless steel welds in order to check and make sure they have all been removed? I'm trying to make sure all the stainless has been removed before I send my receiver off to get parkerized.

Thanks.
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  #20  
Old 05-21-2018, 09:27 AM
Jakeroub Jakeroub is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Mass
Posts: 740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay_Dubya View Post
Do you guys know if there is anything (chemical?) you can apply to the bare steel that will change the color of the stainless steel welds in order to check and make sure they have all been removed? I'm trying to make sure all the stainless has been removed before I send my receiver off to get parkerized.

Thanks.
Cold Blue will darken the steel, but not stainless steel. That will tell you if you've gotten all of the SS weld out.
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