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  #21  
Old 05-21-2018, 09:28 AM
Jay_Dubya Jay_Dubya is offline
 
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Location: Western Maryland
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Thanks Jake
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  #22  
Old 05-21-2018, 10:23 AM
broomhandle broomhandle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Augusta GA- X NYC guy
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Hi Jay,

Read post 14! Rust bluing may work to cover the stainless!
I'll try it as soon as I have a chance.

I used some model air plane paint I had handy, it's been on the rifle for about a year, No one (ten shooter from the club) noticed it was a drill rifle, till I pointed it out!

Good Luck,
broom
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  #23  
Old 05-21-2018, 10:42 AM
ceresco ceresco is online now
 
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Caswells is the standard for darkening stainless steel. It will not produce a really dark or durable finish, but it helps. I have heard that an acid dip before Parkerizing will help the stainless to take the park. Might add that going to all the effort and expense to cut out the weld residue and replace with non stainless, then re Parkerizing negates any cost saving over an unaltered receiver and additionally disguises the fact that it was a drill receiver. ....not my choice. Good Shooting. ....
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  #24  
Old 05-21-2018, 05:39 PM
Wakko Wakko is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Palm Beach, Florida
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Good thread, thanks for the pictures. Cant' wait to see it refinished.
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  #25  
Old 05-21-2018, 06:53 PM
Kansasbobcat Kansasbobcat is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 480
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On many of the really green 03A3 receivers Caswells is too black. Actually model airplane paint works well and you are not going to fool anyone about this being a drill rifle.
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  #26  
Old 05-21-2018, 07:04 PM
Jay_Dubya Jay_Dubya is offline
 
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Location: Western Maryland
Posts: 118
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My barrel is turning in the vice bushings when I'm trying to remove it. What's the best method to keep it from slipping? Previous posts mention rosin, is that the best solution?
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  #27  
Old 05-21-2018, 07:11 PM
Brenneman Brenneman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Home of the Hawkeyes
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I’ve never pulled a barrel but I’ve heard people say to use rosin or thin lead sheet to line the barrel and also of people cutting a pop can and using strips to line the barrel.
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  #28  
Old 05-21-2018, 07:21 PM
ZvenoMan ZvenoMan is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 3,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay_Dubya View Post
Do you guys know if there is anything (chemical?) you can apply to the bare steel that will change the color of the stainless steel welds in order to check and make sure they have all been removed? I'm trying to make sure all the stainless has been removed before I send my receiver off to get parkerized.

Thanks.
Why don't you grind the welds down to the level of the surface and leave it at that. If you grind until the weld material is gone and you have ground below the surface of the metal. You will be blueing/parkerizing a deformed surface; that will not look good, but at least it will be the same color

Read the posts from people who have done this before; grind the weld until the surface is where it needs to be. Use a blacking compound or duracoat if you want. Embrace the fact that you brought a drill rifle back to life respectfully.

I started with this:


I ended up with this:

Fully functional as I ground only to the original level of the metal; keeping the contour correct.
Could I grind more to remove the pitting, and probably weld material? Sure, but why? It works and looks acceptable; grinding out the "damage" will not look better and may not function.
JH
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  #29  
Old 05-21-2018, 08:07 PM
Wakko Wakko is offline
 
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Location: Palm Beach, Florida
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That looks really good.
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  #30  
Old 05-21-2018, 08:27 PM
MountainBear MountainBear is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sweet Home, Oregon
Posts: 51
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I just left the stainless steel beauty mark on mine. I’m sure I could grind it out, weld it up with nickel steel rod and then repark, but why bother. Don’t want to fool anyone. My second action is a much worse weld than my first, so I’m not sure how it will come out. This one may end up ground out and rewelded just because I can.
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