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  #1  
Old 02-13-2018, 02:42 PM
newageroman newageroman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
Default Need help with sights

A couple of other options I am considering:
  • Local smith to drill and tap front sight to barrel $70
  • A red dot like the TRS 25 mounted to the rear receiver dovetail. - do these exist?
  • a 3D printed band with some type of dovetail or post or FO insert - heat would be an issue
  • Drill and tap for scope mounts - I was leaning this route at first, but the smith said it would have to be tempered first, and said the whole blue job would be > $200

So I dug up this old 03A3 sporter and need to get a front sight on it to get it functional again. Drill reciever, with new bolt body, timney trigger and run of the mill sporter stock. I'm hoping to make this a hunting/target/plinking rifle. Mostly I want to get it working to start handloading '06 again.

The barrel had a set of williams hunting sights installed. They were functional, but I removed the front sight ramp to try to restore this barrel for use in another build. I got the sight and silver solder off, but the front sight band key was filled with some type of metal I could not get out.

The best local smith around said it would be $70 to chamber check the rifle and drill and tap the front sight back on. I asked about soldering it back on (which I would prefer), but that got into the weeds quick.

Now I'm thinking that maybe just a stock barrel band, that is tapped on the pin side would be doable and budget friendly.
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  #2  
Old 02-13-2018, 03:13 PM
Mark1 Mark1 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,206
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Contact Chuck in Denver. He is a very good gunsmith and works on 1903's and A3's. He posts here a lot.
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  #3  
Old 02-13-2018, 03:16 PM
ceresco ceresco is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 7,185
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You can buy a standard, complete A3 front sight base (with the blade) for $10 on ebay. You don't need the key. Solder or JB Weld. BTW, looks like your gunsmiths are paying themselves pretty well. Good Shooting. ......
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  #4  
Old 02-14-2018, 12:28 PM
chuckindenver chuckindenver is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,560
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just curios ,
i dont know who his gunsmith is, or what his skill level or training is.
but what do you feel is a fair rate for a gunsmith to charge for work?
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  #5  
Old 02-14-2018, 12:39 PM
chuckindenver chuckindenver is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,560
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plumbers charge 90 to 350 for an hourly rate,
electrical 150 to 500 and hour.
auto mechanic shops average is 100 to 200 an hour.
computer tech shops rate is 120 to 200 an hour.
machine shops get 150 to 400 an hour plus a min charge.
heck house cleaning companies charge 50 to 200 an hour
why is it that a gunsmith cant charge a price for said services?
the CMP custom shop charges for services. more so then what is posted here,,
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2018, 03:28 PM
Calif-Steve Calif-Steve is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: California
Posts: 2,321
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The receiver is not drilled and tapped? Correct? Why not sell the rifle to a collector and find a sporter rifle that is already drilled and tapped? Probably cheap as most guys are looking for untouched receivers. Good luck.
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2018, 04:20 PM
motorcop motorcop is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 531
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Awwww comon' Chuck, you know guys that work on guns are just hacks and should only charge $5.00 to D&T a SC 03A3! But seriously, I have to wonder about the 'smith on this anyway. Is he serious about "tempering" the receiver to drill and tap it? Oh well........40 bucks per hole is the rate on an '03 or 03A3. Break a tap off and see how fast $250.00 goes out the window.

Rick H.
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  #8  
Old 02-14-2018, 04:35 PM
chuckindenver chuckindenver is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,560
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Rick,
its seems lately some folks, bag on smiths for Charging money for work.
but have no problem paying the a mechanic to work on a truck or car,
didn't even really pay attention to what the Smith said honestly, as he isn't here to back up what was said.
me personally always try and be fair, but still have to make a living, and have no problem with some that want to do work by themselves.
i just looked over what the CMP charges and how the waiting list ect,...and had to think,,..i really need to bump my rates up
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  #9  
Old 02-15-2018, 08:35 PM
newageroman newageroman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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I have a line on a lyman band sight. Considering it should work and soldering would be optional, I will try that for the first approach.
I've heard good things about chuck in denver, but not blowing this budget by shipping the rifle.

I rented some case gauges and although the rental is $7/3 days, they get you on shipping ~$10 each way...

I don't have a problem paying smiths for the right instance. I just felt a bit upsold on this run of the mill sporter rifle.

Wondering how bad a heat tempered and tapped mount would look on a parkerized finish? This is a utility gun, so I might consider it.It is a recovered drill reciever so I really don't care about saving it (but I did just recently save/restore another 03A3)

I looked at putting a red dot on the rear reciever dovetail. looked more involved than what I am wanting for the moment, but I think you could make a flat base with the 03A3 dovetail cut in it and then just drill the pattern for whatever reflex sight you wanted. ...just ponderings...

I do like the idea of getting another front sight base and just soldering it on. Might keep that as a backup. Also might try just reinstalling the old front sight myslef. My main concern was to get it lined up properly, and held in place, but I think I could get by with using some band clamps until the solder flows and sets.

As far as the gunsmithing fees go, I expect to pay $20/30 for a D/T per hole. I work in the IT industry, still have $$$ of student loans and make well under your stated rate for the field. I'd love to move to CO if it weren't for all the libs there...
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  #10  
Old 02-17-2018, 06:19 PM
newageroman newageroman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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Well, a small update: I got the rental gauges in and looks like Im good on the chamber (I figured as much but good to have that piece of mind)
http://redtechdesign.com/wp-content/...02/goGauge.jpg

Also: I noticed that the bolt will no longer stay back after cocking and firing. I don't dry fire it much at all, and commonly use my thumb to slowly lower the bolt. I did remove the mag follower to make it easier to slide the bolt fully rearward, with some bore paste on the lug and touch up spot from the drill rifle weld. Also this rifle has a tinmeny trigger in it, but don't see how that would matter, trigger worked in another receiver without incident.

I don't see how that would be related, but looking for spots to look for when dismantling the bolt. then again... might be obvious..
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