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Old 01-07-2010, 01:07 AM
Bronco Leonard Bronco Leonard is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 8
Default How to Disassemble an M-1 Front Handguard ?

I am prepping my Garand stock for refinishing and am not sure how to remove the front handguard ferrule and spacer. From Scott Duff's book, it looks like I need to pry up the ears on the spacer to free it from the ferrule, and then just drive the spacer backward out of the handguard. Is that it?
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  #2  
Old 01-07-2010, 08:50 AM
bamos bamos is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 156
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You can do it from the other end and leave the ferrule and liner attached to each other.

Don't pry the actual tabs in. The tabs break very easily. Its usually best to pinch the side walls of the liner in so that the tabs clear the wood.
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Old 01-07-2010, 02:47 PM
Bronco Leonard Bronco Leonard is offline
 
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That makes sense. Is the liner made of spring steel, i.e., will it spring back into place during reassembly so that the tabs will fully re-engage with the ferrule?

Thanks for the help.

Last edited by Bronco Leonard; 01-07-2010 at 02:50 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-07-2010, 03:35 PM
J.K.D. J.K.D. is offline
 
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Location: Northwestern Wisconsin
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Try taping the metal with some 3M blue painters tape .It worked great for me ,and if you use a little extra it will give you something to hold onto while refinishing.
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2010, 12:03 AM
bamos bamos is offline
 
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Location: Virginia
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I doesn't really spring back into place. Honestly, it can be a bit of a pain to straighten them back out. But, you'll preserve the tabs. I have seen some specialty tools for the liner on Ebay, but I haven't tried them.
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2010, 09:19 AM
HughUno HughUno is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 3,065
Default positively, NO REASON to do this

I have refinished at least 200 M1 stocks and HG sets, and not even once did I take the HG metal off of a front HG. You can strip, sand (cover with masking tape if you sand), and stain these parts without worrying about the parkerized finish. All you usually end up with if you take this stuff off is loose, ill-fitting metal.






Last edited by HughUno; 01-08-2010 at 12:27 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2010, 09:25 AM
HughUno HughUno is offline
 
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Location: Northern VA
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Default more examples

even if the original HG metal parkerization is faded out, you can use some birchwood casey Perma-Black and rub it right over that old finish and it will look almost exactly the same as original park.



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  #8  
Old 02-02-2010, 08:27 PM
flyrod40 flyrod40 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Copper Canyon, Texas
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Default Recipe

Quote:
Originally Posted by HughUno View Post
even if the original HG metal parkerization is faded out, you can use some birchwood casey Perma-Black and rub it right over that old finish and it will look almost exactly the same as original park.



Please tell us what your recipe was for refinishing your wood. It looks great!
Thanks in advance,
George
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  #9  
Old 02-03-2010, 10:40 AM
HughUno HughUno is offline
 
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Location: Northern VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrod40 View Post
Please tell us what your recipe was for refinishing your wood. It looks great!
Thanks in advance,
George
thanks, not hard at all.

strip wood (prefer oven cleaner), steam out dents, CAREFULLY wet sand (sopping wet) with fine 300 grit (if you wish to remove whiskers), let dry, apply BLO with 00000 steel wool, let sit a few minutes, rub/clean hard with terry cloth towel, stain with Chestnut Ridge (if darker/redder is needed/desired), apply 50%/50% BLO/TRU-OIL mix via 00000 steel wool, let sit overnight, rub hard with towel, hand-rub in one more coat 50/50 mix.

good luck..

http://fototime.com/A2921322A22BE6C/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/71D09EE2B9DDBBD/standard.jpg
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