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  #1  
Old 05-11-2013, 10:50 PM
Doubs43 Doubs43 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Byron, GA
Posts: 641
Default Drill Rifles: Usable Parts?

What parts on a drill rifle are likely to still be usable? What parts have been made useless?

Can any of the welded parts be salvaged?

IOW, would the parts from a drill rifle be worth having to rebuild a BR?

Last edited by Doubs43; 05-11-2013 at 10:53 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-11-2013, 11:34 PM
delkal delkal is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Philadelphia Pa
Posts: 205
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Once a part is welded its scrap. That doesn't stop people from trying though. The heat will ruin the hardness. Even if you can machine out the welds is it really worth your time to end up with a questionable rifle???

Unfortunately lots of drill rifles have been "salvaged" to the displeasure of the people that unknowingly buy them.

Spend a little more, save the aggravation, and buy a Field grade. Or take your money and just buy the parts you need.

Whats a BR?
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  #3  
Old 05-11-2013, 11:58 PM
brian68 brian68 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 50
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BR most likely means barreled receiver.

Based on the description, on a drill rifle the gas cylinder, lock, and screw are unusable. And, based on what I saw in JROTC, I doubt you'll want to salvage the wood. But what about other parts? Is the op rod usable? How about the spring and follower rod? The trigger group and rear sight? How about the parts in a magazine well?

Looking over the numbers, you'll pay over $700 for a drill rifle and barreled receiver, then around $180 for the gas tube, lock, and plug - and you will probably spend even more for new wood. A special grade would be cheaper.
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  #4  
Old 05-12-2013, 12:24 AM
NavyVet NavyVet is offline
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 54
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I doubt a whole tour in WWII or Korea put the strain on those rifles that a cadet did in his high school career. From being used as steps, to being tossed up in the air as high as possiable to see how many spins they could get (and usually jumped out of the way before the rifle came down, causing metal to concrete collision). And this was done 5 days a week, twice a day, for 9 months out of the year, for 4 years, and then the rifle found a new terror. I wouldn't try and save the 200 or so dollars on a drill rifle even if it had never been welded.
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  #5  
Old 05-12-2013, 04:17 AM
jerryjeff jerryjeff is offline
 
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Location: Mesa, AZ
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being tossed up in the air as high as possible to see how many spins they could get (and usually jumped out of the way before the rifle came down, causing metal to concrete collision). And this was done 5 days a week, twice a day, for 9 months out of the year, for 4 years,-

Man, that's funny. -and usually jumped out of the way-...
But,fact is, it probably wouldn't hurt the metal. Welding, now that's a different story. A tiny weld wouldn't scare me. Whole chunks of metal melted, I'd avoid that.
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  #6  
Old 05-12-2013, 06:44 AM
SEANinMICH SEANinMICH is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Hartland Michigan
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The ones in north store are heavilh welded. Barrel, receiver, bolt, gas cylinder, gc lock, gc screw, and trigger group all welded and junk. You would also have to do some milling in the receiver to get the oprod out as the track on most is welded

Last edited by SEANinMICH; 05-12-2013 at 07:07 AM.
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  #7  
Old 05-12-2013, 07:06 AM
454pistolshooter 454pistolshooter is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: ohio
Posts: 440
Default drill rifles

Most of the ones at the north have so so wood but I wouldnt pay more than $200 for them because when they de milled them they ruined every thing.
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  #8  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:02 AM
jerryrigged jerryrigged is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NE Ohio
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Most lately in addition to the tack welds at the receiver/barrel also have a 1/2" hole bored in the flat on on the bottom of the receiver extending into the barrel threads, then filled with weld. Sometimes the tack weld is minimal joining the gas cyl and lock- careful use of dremel cutoff wheel will leave you with usable but blemished parts. But you can find great looking lockbars, frt sights (1 IHC sight screw) some nice uncut as well as 65- & 77-series oprods, good trigger groups, plus all the internals, as well as decent wood. Notice I said you can. But you can also find well thrashed guns with welded, empty trigger groups, all the internals gone, and missing sights. By the way, last time to the NS Jim and I were kicking around the chances of taking the rod out that was driven in, plugging the chamber on some of the rifles. Has anyone tried it yet? As far as a drill rifle + a br + rest of the parts, I would say order a SG.
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  #9  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:02 AM
DAL DAL is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Indiana
Posts: 19
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Welding steel does not "ruin" it, it changes it (usually only in the area very close to the weld). It can be changed back. With proper equipment, you can do anything to it! I work in a steel fab shop with access to all types of machinery including heat treat ovens and the expertise of the men and women I work with. Any welded part that can be cut apart without destroying it can be made serviceable again. That being said, it may take many hours to perform this (For some of us, that is the fun part!). Even with this at my disposal, I did the cost comparison and it will not be cheaper. I have not found a cheaper way to build a rifle to my standards than to just buy a service grade. And you will most likely have better components as a whole in the SG.
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  #10  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:56 AM
SEANinMICH SEANinMICH is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Hartland Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryrigged View Post
Most lately in addition to the tack welds at the receiver/barrel also have a 1/2" hole bored in the flat on on the bottom of the receiver extending into the barrel threads, then filled with weld. Sometimes the tack weld is minimal joining the gas cyl and lock- careful use of dremel cutoff wheel will leave you with usable but blemished parts. But you can find great looking lockbars, frt sights (1 IHC sight screw) some nice uncut as well as 65- & 77-series oprods, good trigger groups, plus all the internals, as well as decent wood. Notice I said you can. But you can also find well thrashed guns with welded, empty trigger groups, all the internals gone, and missing sights. By the way, last time to the NS Jim and I were kicking around the chances of taking the rod out that was driven in, plugging the chamber on some of the rifles. Has anyone tried it yet? As far as a drill rifle + a br + rest of the parts, I would say order a SG.

Last trip to North Store, every drill rifle in there had the trigger group welded up except two.
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