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  #21  
Old 10-07-2013, 11:29 PM
dcat dcat is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andykev View Post
I bet if I put this into a pretty bottle and labeled it as "RECOMMENDED CORROSIVE AMMO CLEANER FOR THE M1 GARAND"...

hydrogen hydroxide 33%
dihydrogen monoxide 56%
potassium salts of fatty acids 8%
Phenethyl butyrate 2%
Potassium Sorbate 1%

This stuff will prevent the onset of that scourge, the cancer of shooting: Corrosive Ammo!

Careful, DHMO is a highly dangerous ingredient, responsible for many, many deaths world wide: http://www.dhmo.org/


Dihydrogen Monoxide and Cancer
The causative link between Dihydrogen Monoxide (DHMO) and Cancer is currently not established, although a significant amount of evidence seems to suggest that DHMO at least plays a role in the formation of cancer, including:

Hodgkin's Lymphoma,
Ewing's Tumor,
chondrosarcoma,
fibrosarcoma,
multiple myeloma,
colorectal cancer,
Leukemia,
basal cell carcinoma,
squamous cell carcinoma, and
malignant melanoma.
malignant melanoma is redundant
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  #22  
Old 10-07-2013, 11:32 PM
dcat dcat is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Ol' Boy View Post
Not trying to insight a riot, or an argument, but I tried this with my Mosin. Cleaned like normal, Hoppes 9, let it sit, bore brush, patches till they come out clean, light coat of oil.

The next time I checked the rifle, rust. Now I run a patch with WWII bore cleaner through it once a day for 3 days, then on the 4th day, clean like normal. No rust
Hoppe's for three days, leaving the bore wet each time works. The salts in the gas cracks is what caused rust in your rifle.
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  #23  
Old 10-08-2013, 03:37 PM
Hummer Hummer is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Springfield, SC 29146
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The formulation in GI Bore Cleaner be it WW2 or later vintage has the exact same performance requirements and the major difference is the smell will not irritate your mother in law or wife.
When I worked for the Army Small Cal Wpns Lab I had access to all the specs so on a lark I pulled up the spec and read the test procedure which oddly enough is conducted with a 1911A1 pistol to ignite the Corrosive primer.

It is conducted (if I remember correctly) by taking three pieces of metal and degreasing them well and running them through a blaster. The 1911A1 is loaded and pointed at the piece of metal from a few inches away and fired.

All three pieces of metal are then dipped one time in bore cleaner and removed and hung in a humid atmosphere for X number of days. When removed three specs over 1MM in diameter was cause for rejection of the lot.

If you can get all you can as it won't be made any more.

I suspect Ed's Red formula would work as well. I use 1/3rd Mercon Dexron, 1/3 off road diesel and 1/3 mineral spirits in mine.
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  #24  
Old 10-08-2013, 04:09 PM
dowell1865 dowell1865 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: ky
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Hopped works fine for me swabb. The bore let set for an hour then swab again the use soaked bore brush about 20 strokes then swab let set for a day or two the clean with ballistol leave damp with balistol for storage
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  #25  
Old 10-09-2013, 06:25 AM
madrad62 madrad62 is offline
 
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Location: n/e ohio
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boiling hot water and dish soap in metal coffee can,insert muzzle in can,pull brush through several times,change water and soap as needed till water stays clean,repeat a couple of times for a couple of days,oil and grease like normal. just the same as cleaning a black powder firearm. I don't use corrosive in semi autos any more,too many parts and a waste of ammo reseating rifle after reassembly. I scored a crap load of nationalist Chinese 30-06 back in the 80's,good stuff just corrosive as h#%$. I only use it in bolt guns,03's and 1917's. seems like over kill,but ive never had a crusty bore yet.
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  #26  
Old 10-09-2013, 07:17 AM
captaincalc captaincalc is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ohio
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and the hot water makes the thing dry quick and thorough.
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  #27  
Old 10-09-2013, 09:26 PM
tmark tmark is offline
 
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Location: Dagsboro, Delaware
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madrad, I like the idea of the coffee can filled with hot soapy water and the brush. Thanks for posting.
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  #28  
Old 10-09-2013, 11:36 PM
douglas34474 douglas34474 is offline
 
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Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 975
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Get a copy of "Hatcher's Notebook." It has a whole chapter on corrosive ammo.

Bottom line, clean with water and oil after. Do this for threes days after firing.

Windex only has 0.05% of 28% aquas ammonia and ammonia has no chemical reaction with salt. The only reason the myth continues is the water.
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  #29  
Old 10-10-2013, 01:42 AM
Andykev Andykev is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: California
Posts: 461
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Corrosive Primer Redux
By
M.E. Podany, ALGC
With the resurgence of interest in Garand and Springfield shooting and the availability
of vintage .30-06 ammunition from the CMP, questions are being asked as to how to tell which
ammunition is corrosive and which is non-corrosive. A lot of hearsay information and poor
copies of tables of arsenal production are in circulation. An article originally published in the
January 1961 issue of American Rifleman discussed the evolution of non-corrosive primers
and how to distinguish which ammunition is non-corrosive. The information contained in the
original 1961 article has been condensed for this article.

First, a little history. For non-mercuric corrosive primers the primary corrosion culprit
is potassium chlorate (KClO3). Potassium chlorate was used as an oxidizer, providing oxygen,
to the primer compound reaction. When the reaction takes place the oxygen is removed from
the molecule leaving potassium chloride (KCl). Potassium chloride is a salt much like sodium
chloride (common table salt). As a matter of fact, take a look at most salt substitutes and you
will find that they contain potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride. The potassium
chloride residue left in a gun barrel absorbs water from the air and creates a corrosive film
responsible for barrel rusting. Since potassium chloride is highly soluble in water this is the
reason why it is recommended that barrels be washed with hot water after shooting corrosive
ammunition. It is also recommended that shooters wash their brass that contained corrosive
primers in the same manner.
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  #30  
Old 10-10-2013, 08:42 AM
colt100 colt100 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: N. WI
Posts: 762
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Water's the only thing that going to take away salts. I personally use ballistol/water mix. When it drys, it leaves a slight protective film (not really noticeable) so I don't have to worry about rust. It doesn't smell (or stink should be the better word), it's really cheap for the amount you get mixed with water, cleans well, is non-toxic, and won't hurt the wood of the rifle. I don't have to clean for days as I hose my rifle down with the water/ballistol mix and then wipe excess off. Never had rust with this method.

I see people with the windex at the range and chuckle. If you want to use it great. It's just an expensive water mix that doesn't do anything more then tap water would do. I also hear of people using all sorts of things for cleaning corrosive, like usgi bore cleaner (hard to find, smelly, toxic IIRC), water and soap (not bad but there is more worry about rust and where does the soap go?), Hoppes (good cleaner but it is expensive to use any quantity to flush salts and may have to repeatably clean).

I was once afraid to shoot corrosive. Now I just shoot corrosive right before I'm going to tear down one of my garands anyway for it's annual cleaning.

I wish the CMP was pulling the few rounds of corrosive out of the HXP ammo and was selling loose corrosive ammo for a few bucks less. I'd buy all I could.
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