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  #1  
Old 04-03-2012, 09:07 PM
A7Dave A7Dave is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alaska
Posts: 309
Default Garand trigger job gunsmiths

Anyone have recommendations for a trigger job on the Garand? The gunsmith who did my last one has since retired.

I know it can be done at home with minor tools, but I'm looking for a good gunsmith who semi-specializes in Garands.

Thanks,

Dave
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  #2  
Old 04-03-2012, 09:29 PM
buckshot85 buckshot85 is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cowtown, Wis.
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SHUFF DOES AWESOME TRIGGER WORK. get ahold of him. both of mine are great.

http://shuffsparkerizing.com/
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  #3  
Old 04-04-2012, 12:43 AM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
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Location: Cobb, N California
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Originally Posted by A7Dave View Post
Anyone have recommendations for a trigger job on the Garand? The gunsmith who did my last one has since retired.

I know it can be done at home with minor tools, but I'm looking for a good gunsmith who semi-specializes in Garands.

Thanks,

Dave
Just remember the trigger work that Shuff does is exactly the same that I posted the instructions for. Easy to do yourself but also remember that you'd have to buy the trigger pull gauge and EZ Lapper to do the work yourself so, unless you have the tools you need to do it already and are only going to do one you'd be better off with Shuff or even me. If you plan on doing more than one, buy the tools and do it yourself. It's a very simple thing to do and anyone with any mechanical skill that knows how to go slow can do it themselves.

Larry
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2012, 06:30 AM
tjtorborg tjtorborg is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Blaine, Minnesota
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Larry,

Where can I get an EZ Lapper?

Thanks,

Tom
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  #5  
Old 04-04-2012, 07:14 AM
surplusshooter surplusshooter is offline
 
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Location: East central Illinois
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I also highly recommend Tim Shufflin to do the trigger job on your M1 Garand. He did a trigger job on my M1 Garand and all I can say is WOW !!! After the first stage pull, it breaks like a skinny icicle and has zero creep. Not only is he the best at trigger jobs and parkerizing but nobody can beat his prices and or his fast turn around times.
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  #6  
Old 04-04-2012, 07:41 AM
HughUno HughUno is offline
 
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Location: Northern VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjtorborg View Post
Larry,

Where can I get an EZ Lapper?

Thanks,

Tom
you don't "need" anything special. An "Arkansas Stone" has worked quite well for me (and I have done scores of trigger jobs). Unless you want to rely upon a piece of coat-hanger and a bag of nickels, a pull gauge is very helpful (and will keep you from messing up a hammer). The Wheeler Engineering gauge is good and only costs about 20 bucks.

The little NRA "Book of the Garand" has good article on cleaning up the trigger engagement points. This combined with stoning (carefully) the hammer hooks will do the trick. On the other hand, as was mentioned, a quick trip to Tim Shufflins would provide the rare triple-combo of fast-cheap-good.
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  #7  
Old 04-04-2012, 01:10 PM
A7Dave A7Dave is offline
 
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Thanks,

I'd forgotten the Mr Shufflin did trigger jobs. He did a nice job on a couple of barrels and parts that I sent him for parkerizing.
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  #8  
Old 04-04-2012, 01:18 PM
slikwilli420 slikwilli420 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Southwest MI
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I totally recommend learning to do it yourself if you have more than two you will ever do. There is no black magic to it, just go very slow and check your work often. 15 minutes later, you saved at least $35 and have satisfaction of doing it yourself.
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  #9  
Old 04-04-2012, 10:40 PM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cobb, N California
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Originally Posted by tjtorborg View Post
Larry,

Where can I get an EZ Lapper?

Thanks,

Tom
Sorry, mispelled it. It's an EZE-LAP and it can be had here: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6...OND-HONE-STONE
You need the fine one.

Here's a slide show with pics on doing the work: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/albu...eshow/18418560

Here's the instructions:

Just remember to go slow. You'll need a trigger pull scale/gage. As you work down the back of the hammer catch the first thing removed is the trigger creep then the poundage starts coming off. If your trigger/sear is worn you may find that some poundage comes off with the creep so be careful and check after each 10 strokes of the lapper or so. Make sure after each trigger pull test that the hammer pin is fully inserted. They will sometimes work out during testing and it will bind the hammer giving you a false high reading.

To get the right angle the plastic lower part of the lapper rests on the back of the housing as you file the hooks. You will have to unhook a milled guard to get the LAP to rest on the back of the housing. Work slow and keep the hooks as even as possible. You can check they are even by latching the hammer and pull out the first stage and look at the contact between the back of the latches and where they contact the trigger at the back.


What all this does is lengthens the first stage and moves the sear closer to the release point of the hammer hooks.

Did I say go slow? Well, I’ll say it again….GO SLOW!

The good news is that you can put poundage back on if you go too far. Write me on the Forum if that happens and I’ll instruct you on how to do that. Very simple to do.

BEFORE removing material from the back hooks of the hammer you may also want to take the trigger group apart and polish the parkerization off the sear where it hooks on the hammer. Use a very fine Arkansas stone and just remove the park till the hooks are silver. That smoothes the trigger pull. Most of the time on a used trigger group this step will not be necessary because normal wear had already done it for you

I would not recommend reducing trigger pull to less than 5# since, over time there will be wear and you don’t want to push the 4 1/2# rule too closely and get DQ’d when they check your trigger at a CMP shoot.


Tools needed:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=6098&title=EZE-LAP%20DIAMOND%20HONE%20&%20STONE Get the 290-000-001

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=9627&title=NORTON%20PREMIUM%2 0HARD%20ARKANSAS%20STONES Get the 657-300-813

You’ll also need a trigger pull scale. Unless you plan to take a risk and go all the way to 4.5# this one will do nicely: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=545039

If you want to get it all in one place Brownells has it too but $6.00 higher: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9961/Product/PREMIUM_TRIGGER_PULL_GAUGE

If you've done other work you may have to get yourself another hammer and/or trigger and start from scratch. If it's rough feeling look at the side of the trigger housing where the trigger is closest to. Some triggers rub there and you need to smooth off the park or take a little material off the edge of the trigger to stop it from rubbing. A little grease there helps too.

Larry

Last edited by lapriester; 04-04-2012 at 10:55 PM.
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  #10  
Old 04-05-2012, 06:56 AM
tjtorborg tjtorborg is offline
 
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Location: Blaine, Minnesota
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Larry,

Thanks for the help. That is exactly what I was looking for. Unfortunately the link to the slide show doesn't work for me. A new window opens but nothing shows up. What am I doing wrong? Also the item #657-300-813 is a round stone, is that correct?

Thanks again for all your help,

Tom
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