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  #1  
Old 12-02-2012, 07:53 AM
.30 Carbine .30 Carbine is offline
 
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Default What Kind of Primer Is In The Lake City .30 Carbine?

After saving my carbine brass for the past 5 years, I am going to start reloading them. I bought the RCBS Carbide 3 die set and the M2 Hornady tumbler.

The first question that comes to mind is, does the Lake City carbine cartride have the primers that I will need a special tool to remove, like the Lake City .30-06 Ball or the Greek ammo? Or, will my soon to arrive RCBS die de-prime it easily?

I used crushed walnut lizard litter (on sale at Petco this week, 1/2 price) for about two hours in the tumbler with some non-ammonia brass cleaner that was in the house. The results were pretty good, but not brand new shiny, but shiny enough to indicate the brass is clean.

Second question is, how do you know when the cartridges are clean enough?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:57 AM
lapriester lapriester is offline
 
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It is Boxer primed. So is LC and Greek 30-06 brass. Neither LC or Greek 30-06 need a "special tool" to remove primers. I'm not sure what you mean. You do have to remove the primer crimps post depriming and sizing but it doesn't take a special tool to deprime those cases. Any regular size/deprime die will do it fine. HXP "crimps" can be removed by your neck chamfer tool but LC and others with full crimps will take a swage tool or pocket reamer.

It also will not take a special tool to size/deprime your Carbine LC brass but you still will have to remove the primer crimp with a primer pocket swage or reamer before you re-prime the cases.

Honestly, you don't have to clean the cases at all. They are clean enough when you decide you've spent enough valuable reloading time tumbling them. I always do it more to protect my sizing die from scratches than to make the brass look new. I know people that never clean brass and throw it away when it gets too dirty. IMHO a waste of good brass but that's what they do. I will say, though, that Carbine brass is darn dirty after being shot and that debris won't be good for the sizing die over time. If you want to make it look like new just leave it in the tumbler longer.

Some folks are no doubt going to tell you the terrible consequences of using an ammonia based cleaner for brass. Well, I've been using Brasso in my tumbling media for 40 years and have never once seen any negative consequences....just clean brass. I still use it in my media. Fact is, not so many years ago, almost every reloading equipment maker sold brass cleaner to add to your media that had ammonia as one of it's primary ingredients. RCBS, Hornady and Lyman all sold it. I used up my last bottle of Lyman stuff a couple of years ago and it had enough ammonia in it to make your eyes water if you sniffed it.

I would strongly suggest cleaning out the primer pockets with a primer pocket cleaning tool so debris in the pockets doesn't create high primers in some of your cases.

Larry

Last edited by lapriester; 12-02-2012 at 11:01 AM.
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2012, 01:52 PM
.30 Carbine .30 Carbine is offline
 
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Thanks Larry. I thought a tool was needed to remove crimped primers because when I was depriming some LC or HXP .30-06 earlier this year with the die's deprimer I met too much resistance and therefore bought a tool for pounding out military primers from Midway USA. Then I used a pocket reamer attached to my corless drill to clear out the crimp and clean the pocket. I will see how this goes. Thanks again!
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2012, 01:58 PM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
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lizard liter will get your brass clean but not that polished look. I use nufinish car polish and oderless mineral spirits mixed 50/50 gets brass clean and keeps down dust....give it a good squirt of the mix. let run for 20min to mix up then add brass...I also toss in old dryer sheets. Thret seem to collect some nast gunk so i keep putting new (used) dryer sheets in as soon as the one in the tumbler is black
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:10 PM
USSR USSR is offline
 
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As previously mentioned, you will have no problem removing the primers with any standard die. Also, LC .30 Carbine brass does not have crimped primers, so you don't have that to contend with. The only USGI .30 Carbine brass that I have found to have crimped primers are the ones made by Winchester (WRA, WCC, etc.).

Don
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2012, 06:06 PM
.30 Carbine .30 Carbine is offline
 
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Thanks guys for all the help! Hope the dies show up tomorrow.

Last edited by .30 Carbine; 12-02-2012 at 06:36 PM.
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2012, 06:11 PM
Hacker Hacker is offline
 
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Beware of the LC 52 "counterfeit" brass: it is berdan primed, courtesy of your friendly ChiComs.
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2012, 08:54 AM
captain-03 captain-03 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacker View Post
Beware of the LC 52 "counterfeit" brass: it is berdan primed, courtesy of your friendly ChiComs.
A lot of this crap has been showing up at my range lately!!
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2012, 10:24 AM
plankie plankie is offline
 
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.30 Carbine - just a heads up as I just resized and trimmed 1500 carbine cases I have been collecting for many years....I did find a handful of cases that were berdan primed. These all had a headstamp "1-60 S 7.62 VE" and I'm not sure how I got these. Maybe they were range pickup on my position at the Carbine match? Not sure. Talking to a buddy I shoot with, he has had the same cases. I use the Lee depriming /resizing die and so the depriming spindle will slide up when it encounters berdan primers, but a standard depriming pin would probably break or bend.
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