Barreled Receiver will not pass tilt test

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  • ceresco
    • Oct 2009
    • 8758

    #16
    I would not straighten a barrel using the exterior dimension. The bore does not necessarily line up with the exterior. The standard is to optically check straightness and go from there. Anyone can use the optical method. It is actually pretty easy. You simply view a lattice through the bore and look for curvature. I use the siding on a building--and it works! Unfortunately, you need a straight shot through the receiver which leaves out the M1 unless the barrel is removed or some complicated mirror system is used. Let us know how this ends. Good Shooting. ..

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    • LavaTech
      • Oct 2009
      • 1047

      #17
      I realize that straightening barrels based on exterior measurement only is likely to produce "minute of ballpark" unless the bore is concentric (doubtful) but it does handle gross deformity and can be done without dismounting. Finalizing optically would still be best practice without doubt and the only way to assure best results.
      Appleseed Project: Where marksmanship meets history and the heritage begins.
      Revolutionary War Veterans Association http://www.appleseedinfo.org/
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      • la Fiere
        • Oct 2009
        • 2207

        #18
        OP - Can you clarify that the oprod is hitting the barrel band with the BR out of the stock, and not the tab of the stock ferrule?


        It's common to have interference at the ferrule, but if the oprod is contacting the barrel band without the ferrule tab present, that's not normal.


        Also, you mentioned the contact is occurring at the bottom of the barrel band. By "bottom" do you mean at both the 4:00 and 8:00 positions? There is no 6:00 position (band is open at the bottom) and I'm just trying to get a mental picture of what's happening.

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        • krdomingue
          • Nov 2015
          • 1627

          #19
          Originally posted by AJsun
          All of the posts sound really logical and I would agree with the bent barrel theory. I assume we are dealing with a :M-1 Garand? A simple solution, buy a new Barrel. A standard Military Barrel is not that expensive.AJ?
          That may be the end result, once I decide it is a bent barrel problem. but I hate the idea of losing the original barrel.

          Originally posted by la Fiere View Post
          OP - Can you clarify that the oprod is hitting the barrel band with the BR out of the stock, and not the tab of the stock ferrule?


          It's common to have interference at the ferrule, but if the oprod is contacting the barrel band without the ferrule tab present, that's not normal.


          Also, you mentioned the contact is occurring at the bottom of the barrel band. By "bottom" do you mean at both the 4:00 and 8:00 positions? There is no 6:00 position (band is open at the bottom) and I'm just trying to get a mental picture of what's happening.
          Not the stock ferrule. By bottom, I mean when you looking at it with the barrel assembly upside down on my desk. It rubs/binds against the bottom of the arc made by the opening for the op-rod to run through. 12 o'clock or top, if I was holding the rifle upright.

          https://imgur.com/EE0cLBs

          Comment

          • dnmccoy
            • Apr 2011
            • 3977

            #20
            Have you tried other barrel bands?

            Comment

            • RichieRich3902
              • Apr 2012
              • 171

              #21
              How hard is it rubbing? Can you relieve the ferrell to allow it to pass?

              Comment

              • krdomingue
                • Nov 2015
                • 1627

                #22
                Originally posted by dnmccoy View Post
                Have you tried other barrel bands?
                Yes

                Originally posted by RichieRich3902 View Post
                How hard is it rubbing? Can you relieve the ferrell to allow it to pass?
                It would have to be what I feel is a significant amount. Not so much that it would invalidate the integrity of the band, but enough that I feel it shouldn't be done. The band is the symptom, no the problem. I would rather be sure of the cause and fix that.

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                • Rock
                  Banned
                  • Nov 2010
                  • 1060

                  #23
                  Have you checked op rod function with the rifle fully assembled? If you have, does it bind or drag at a particular point along its travel?

                  Comment

                  • Mark1
                    • Oct 2009
                    • 1955

                    #24
                    As Rock stated, assembly the rifle, but put chalk on the op rod. This will transfer to any area rubbing.

                    Comment

                    • sparx
                      • Oct 2009
                      • 5109

                      #25
                      Was proper barrel indexing ever established?


                      Sparx

                      Comment

                      • krdomingue
                        • Nov 2015
                        • 1627

                        #26
                        Originally posted by sparx View Post
                        Was proper barrel indexing ever established?


                        Sparx
                        It is properly indexed.

                        Comment

                        • TSimonetti
                          • Oct 2009
                          • 5573

                          #27
                          Please continue to define what you mean by "failing". Does it move part way and then stop? Does it fail to move at all? Is it just sluggish rather than smooth and easy as you expect?

                          Did you apply grease everywhere necessary?

                          In my few conversations with CMP armorers, they didn't seem to place a lot of finality to failing a tilt test. Their response to me usually was along the lines of "See how it shoots". Perhaps you should consider doing this?

                          Is it possible that you can simply file away the area that is rubbing? I know this subject was addressed already, and I know you feel that it should not be done, but it doesn't seem like chasing this rabbit further down the hole to solve the mystery will be beneficial short of replacing the barrel, which you don't want to do.

                          Relieving the rub area of the band is what I would do at this point. I've seen several lower bands and ferrules worked over in this manner.
                          Last edited by TSimonetti; 01-28-2021, 07:00 AM.

                          Comment

                          • sparx
                            • Oct 2009
                            • 5109

                            #28
                            If barrel is properly indexed then has to be a problematic barrel, as Larry pointed out early in this thread.


                            What are the barrel markings?



                            Also, I do tilt test without grease.


                            As Tsimonetti, asked I am curious as to how much resistance there is? Not very easy to explain this I understand.


                            I would fire the rifle if not already been done, be interesting to know if it shoots to (or close) the point of aim since the barrel may be bent. Also curious to know if excessive sight adjustment is required to get it on paper at 50- 100 yards.



                            sparx

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                            • johnpick
                              • Apr 2020
                              • 13

                              #29
                              When you are dealing with mil spec parts you can get a rifle with a barrel at one end of the spectrum and a op rod and ferule at different ends and it just doesn't quite meet up. That is what you are probably dealing with and I would work over the ferule and see how it shoots and operates.

                              Comment

                              • krdomingue
                                • Nov 2015
                                • 1627

                                #30
                                Originally posted by Mark1 View Post
                                As Rock stated, assembly the rifle, but put chalk on the op rod. This will transfer to any area rubbing.
                                I don't need chalk, I already know where it is rubbing. It starts to rub when the oprod is halfway back and continues to get worse as the bolt is pulled back.

                                Originally posted by Rock View Post
                                Have you checked op rod function with the rifle fully assembled? If you have, does it bind or drag at a particular point along its travel?
                                I have tried it in everyway possible. See above answer to where it is rubbing.

                                Originally posted by johnpick View Post
                                When you are dealing with mil spec parts you can get a rifle with a barrel at one end of the spectrum and a op rod and ferule at different ends and it just doesn't quite meet up. That is what you are probably dealing with and I would work over the ferule and see how it shoots and operates.
                                True there is some variation from part to part. Particularly when dealing with used parts but that is why I went through a progression of parts to see if it was any particular part that was the problem. I am fairly certain that it isn't the lower band that is out of spec. I am reluctant to file medal off of it when it isn't the real problem. It might solve the immediate issue, but could leave me with a subpar barrel.

                                When I have the time I will attempt to check if the barrel is straight or not. If not, then I am not sure what I will do. I started this project back in 2015, because I wanted an HRA in my collection and I thought it would be fun to build out a barrel receiver. I have since acquired a better HRA example for my collection. I could replace the barrel, but I built a great shooter at the AMC course and don't need another one. It would be a good experience to replace the barrel, but then I would end up with a rifle that cost more than it is worth. Breaking back down for parts, might be the final answer.

                                Thanks

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