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Old 01-31-2021, 12:36 PM
la Fiere la Fiere is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Northern California - SF peninsula
Posts: 2,073
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Just my 2 cents worth, I think the next step is to either confirm a bent barrel or take that off the table. A couple of pin gauges would not be too expensive:


https://www.mcmaster.com/pin-gauges/...z-plug-gauges/


I've found Roy Baumgardner's "Precision Shooting With The M1 Garand" a helpful reference. In his discussion of the operating rod (Part 5 which begins on P. 27) he advocates bending the oprod to fit each specific rifle. In the end, it may turn out that the peculiarities of your rifle require the middle of the oprod to be bent downward to clear the barrel band. If everything else is good (barrel indexed properly, not bent, etc.) then fitting the oprod to the rifle as it exists may be the solution.



You should also look very carefully to see if there are any other interference locations. The way the oprod comes out of the gas cylinder is a good indicator. For example, with the bolt closed there should be vertical movement of the oprod in the gas cylinder. If that's binding or tight it's an indicator of how the oprod needs to be bent (almost always a change to the oprod will affect two locations).



I don't know what others experience has been, but for me the usual interference at the barrel band / stock ferrule is with the bottom of the oprod tube rubbing against the top of the ferrule. That's pretty common and sometimes I've removed some material from the concave part of the ferrule tab just for insurance. I don't think I've never had one rub at the top like you're describing.


One last thought, are you holding the BR upside down when doing the test? I suppose that could cause the top-rubbing situation you're seeing.