Carbine Barreled Receiver pics & data

[HenryPatrick]

Well I will post some pictures later. But I received two saginaws, regular sg's. I traded one of those, actually the nicer one, for an IBM. I had Inland and Quality slides, tried trading, ended up buying a AOB slide. I had two austrian marked trigger housing's and sold those. I have an Inland bolt, ordered a SB round bolt, and a sg flat. Traded for a sg trigger. I put a type 2 repo barrel band on the sg, and replacement ria front sight. The stocks I have are a "J" marked stock, which I understand to be a WW2 replacement stock and a SA stock, so I am going with the replacement stock theme. The sg has a saginaw barrel, no date. The Ibm has a Ibm barrel, no date. Pictures to follow.

[hammonje]

I hope we have more barreled receivers being built up than this. Sure some are still getting the parts together and such.

I would really like to see what they turned out like. Accuracy reports included if possible. Mine shoots like a dream. A barrel that guages near new doesn't hurt, but some other factors involved.

What I have learned from some investigation, is that reducing the trigger pull by replacing the trigger spring really improves the accuracy with the carbine. I go around gun shows searching for weak springs. Go figure....

I am always dismayed by the fact that no one has determined any real means of improving carbine accuracy at 100 yards.

Here is my weak attempt at investigating trigger pulls in the carbine. I wanted to make the trigger pull less on a particular rifle. Weighed in at almoist 9 lbs. Ouch. Went around and found one carbine that had a trigger pull of 5 lbs. Swapped the parts one by one to attempt to find source of lighter pull. Swapping the trigger spring alone reduced the pull to 6.2 lbs. The addition of a new hammer spring actually increased trigger pull weight. Rest of trigger pull was reduced by stoning contact points lightly. Just enough to remove park. Got it down to 5.5 lbs from 9.0 lbs.

Accuracy across the board was improved. Score improvement at next match was 25 points.

I know I throw random stuff sometimes....

[HenryPatrick]

Here's some pictures, come on guys post your photos. We need something to compete with those Winchester SG's on the garand pages.
http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/...trick2010/brs/

[HenryPatrick]

I had the sg put together, took it apart to make it more sg, LOL what we won't do. It's all for fun, so what the heck. So the weaker springs are better for accuracy, or the other way around?

[G26ster]

Here is my QHMC barreled receiver in a repro M1A1 stock. The stock metal has been parked, and correct leather and rivets installed. Initially I put mostly mixmaster parts in it to get it shooting, but have since made it 95% QHMC correct parts except for the type IV mag catch, to better support 30 rd mags, and the barrel band is also a cut down type III. Future plans call for putting it in a Q-RMC stock (when I find one), and if I ever can find a late Inland b/r I will put that in the M1A1 stock.

[J.R.2009]

I had the sg put together, took it apart to make it more sg, LOL what we won't do. It's all for fun, so what the heck. So the weaker springs are better for accuracy, or the other way around?

Be careful with "weaker" springs. Needless to say you sure don't want a weaker recoil spring. A weaker trigger spring is OK but I have my doubts about the hammer spring being weaker. Don't think I'd go that route. Keep in mine the recoil AND hammer springs are both part of the cycle speed on the whole system.
Think I'd stay stock with every spring except the trigger spring.
IMHO.

[hammonje]

Be careful with "weaker" springs. Needless to say you sure don't want a weaker recoil spring. A weaker trigger spring is OK but I have my doubts about the hammer spring being weaker. Don't think I'd go that route. Keep in mine the recoil AND hammer springs are both part of the cycle speed on the whole system.
Think I'd stay stock with every spring except the trigger spring.
IMHO.

Absolutely correct. Recoil and hammer springs are NOS USGI from Orion 7. I was only speaking of the trigger spring. It is responsible for the majority of the trigger pull weight that is capable of being changed. You can hit your target much easier with a lower pull weight.

Most of my 20+ USGI carbines had a trigger pull weight in the 7.0 lb range. Getting them down to 5.0 - 5.5 lbs. is an enormous difference. Also, stoning the contact points of the sear and hammer, the side of the TH where the trigger moves....this removes the creep and provides for a smooth trigger pull. The sum is much better groups indeed.

[J.R.2009]

B-3-6, go to the "How To" forum and it will walk you through the pic posting deal.

[andyman]

Reserving a spot for my SG and Standard Products Carbines when they are complete. I will try to get some build process pics up as well.

Andy

[J.R.2009]

Spot reserved. Start the pics and info.

[TwoGunChuck]

Winchester and Inland. This is what they looked like when they came.

Completed the Inland with an NPM trigger housing I had lying around (mixed internal parts, mainly Inland). Used an Inland type 4 slide and round OI bolt. Stock is an Underwood stock that came with a service grade carbine I got a couple years ago, for which I had the right stock so had this one lying around. Replaced the barrel band ($15), since the one that came on the BR had stripped threads. Also bought a USGI oiler ($13). Had the sling already. Had the Ultimak mount and Nikon scope. (Which I don't recommend -- a Leupold scout scope is much better.)

For the Winchester, bought an RIA front sight, key and pin, total $38, and a USGI oiler ($13). Had all the other parts lying around (SG trigger housing completed with mainly Inland and Underwood parts, Inland type 4 slide, postwar U round bolt, type 3 barrel band, I.R. Co. rear sight. The repro paratrooper stock is one I got from Sportsman's guide a few years ago and was not using.

These are the completed carbines:

Both headspaced, close on go gauge and will not close on no-go gauge. Both are totally reliable and shoot well.

So completing these did not cost much. Except that after doing it I spent about $200 replenishing my spare parts supply. (mainly for a spare bolt, front sight and trigger housing parts.)

[AZTrooper110]

I just finished my Inland BR from parts, cost about $500.00 total. I had a lot of fun with my first build from scratch. (and probably my last, with the price of B/Rs going through the roof.) Lets see those BR photos!

Apex Gun Parts Complete Trigger Group $90.00
Carbine Slide - Copes Distributing $39.00
Bolt Complete - CMP Member $60.00
BR CMP $$125.00
Carbine Stock Ebay $29.00
Misc Small Parts - Fulton Armory $45.00
Handguard and metal - What-a-Country $47.00
Rear sight - Front Sight - Recoil Plate - CMP Mozzer $67.00

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5106959_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5240351_n.jpg
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[andyman]

Spot reserved. Start the pics and info.

Haha, give me time! Trying to juggle a 4.0, Freshman Midterms and Carbine addiction is not easy! I assembled my Apex TG today. Pics (hopefully) by Sunday of the build process. Still waiting on my stock to get here from home in AZ.

Andy

[J.R.2009]

Haha, give me time! Trying to juggle a 4.0, Freshman Midterms and Carbine addiction is not easy! I assembled my Apex TG today. Pics (hopefully) by Sunday of the build process. Still waiting on my stock to get here from home in AZ.

Andy

HEY, what's more important, bringing these little carbines back to life or getting an ED-U-CA-TION?
Put them books down and start building that carbine.

[Warden]

Allright, I'll post mine. It is a 1.7 million Rock-Ola with undated Rock-Ola barrel. I restored all the way back to 100&#37; Rock-ola.

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