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  #21  
Old 07-31-2021, 10:50 AM
Col Studler Col Studler is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Montana
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@Larry Gibson

Found this on another board. Thanks for this good info:

1st mould I got in '68 for my M1 Carbine was the 311410 because everyone said that was “THE” cast bullet for the M1 Carbine.** Over the next 10 years I loaded it every which way from Sunday with several different powders and never could get it to shoot any better than the worst shooting milsurp.** There was quite a bit of sporterizing and accurizing of M1 Carbines back then.** My M1 Carbine would hold 2” groups of 15 shots (mag full) at 100 yards with 100 - 110 jacketed bullets.** The 311410 sucked over 12 gr of Hercules 2400 which ran 6+ moa.** Best load was 12.5 gr of H4227 which would run 4 - 5 moa.** Many thought that was ok but I knew the velocity wasn't up to par and accuracy sure wasn't.** I then was gifted some 311359s cast of WWs and was told to load them over 13.5 gr H110.** I did that and the 1st 15 shots went into less than 2 1/2” at 100 yards.** I sold the 311410 and ordered a 311359 and was ever after a happy camper......
**
In the early '70s when I got my 1st Oehler chronograph I still had some of those 311410s so I duplicated the old 2400 and 4227 loads.** The 2400 load was just over 1500 fps and the H4227 load was just under 1600 fps.** Anything over that and accuracy was really pretty bad.** The 13.5 gr load of H110 under the 311359 runs just over 1870 fps and when zeroed at 150 yards its trajectory is regulated to the sight range settings.** Accuracy is superior also.** Many times at the range when the unknowing who think the gun rag and internet gossip about M1 Carbines being “inaccurate” often mention that when they see my M1 Carbines.** I then proceed to make clay pigeons dance on the 300 yard berm and ask if they can do that with their usual M4 wanna be's........most of them can't hit the head on their zombie targets at 50 yards let alone 100 yards and they think 300 yards is for mortars and artillery strikes........The accuracy of the M1 Carbine has them amazed yet befuddled because they read somewhere......
**
I came across a 311359U that drops its COWW + 2% tin alloyed bullets right at .3105.** Since I size the bullets .309 for reliable chambering with all makes of brass** in numerous carbines I use that mould now.** The older original dropped them at .312.** Not really any difference.** I've also used the equivalent RCBs and Lee moulds with equal success over H110.**
**
The 311410 performs well enough for some in the M1 carbines and that is fine.** However, if you want the best accuracy and performance at 30 Carbine level velocities then a GC'd cast bullet is needed.
**
LMG


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  #22  
Old 08-01-2021, 08:26 AM
35 Whelen 35 Whelen is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Texas
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Thanks for this Col Studler. Larry is very knowledgable in many area of handloading, but especially the .30 Carbine.
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  #23  
Old 08-03-2021, 02:46 PM
mjudge mjudge is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Missoula, MT
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Received an order of these 110 gr round nose from RMR yesterday. They appear to be Armscor bullets (but I am no expert); they have that telltale golden hue. No idea how they shoot yet (still waiting on RCBS to get carbide dies back in stock), but reviews on both the RMR and Selway Armory websites say they need to be seated a bit deeper than others. We'll see. If they are Armscor, when Selway gets them back in stock, Selway will be the cheaper option (but I have a store in town so no shipping). I've had nothing but good luck with both companies; repeat buyer.
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  #24  
Old 08-04-2021, 07:29 AM
35 Whelen 35 Whelen is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjudge View Post
Received an order of these 110 gr round nose from RMR yesterday. They appear to be Armscor bullets (but I am no expert); they have that telltale golden hue. No idea how they shoot yet (still waiting on RCBS to get carbide dies back in stock), but reviews on both the RMR and Selway Armory websites say they need to be seated a bit deeper than others. We'll see. If they are Armscor, when Selway gets them back in stock, Selway will be the cheaper option (but I have a store in town so no shipping). I've had nothing but good luck with both companies; repeat buyer.
When you get some of these bullets loaded and shot, please post the results here. I'm curious of how they will shoot.

Suggestion: I wouldn't bother buying a .30 Carbine carbide sizing die. I was told that due to the taper of the case, they would need to be lubed even when using a carbide die. I should've listened because the carbide die I bought accomplished exactly nothing, I still had to lube cases. I went back to the old steel die I was already using.

ETA- I would suggest a taper crimp die if the set you buy doesn't come with one.

Last edited by 35 Whelen; 08-04-2021 at 08:07 AM.
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  #25  
Old 08-04-2021, 07:55 AM
ceresco ceresco is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 8,136
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I must admit to a bit of skepticism when reading reports of 15 rounds into 2 inches at 100yds and dead pigeons at 300yds. Always interested in technical reports......but. Good Shooting. ...
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  #26  
Old 08-04-2021, 09:00 AM
309Carbine 309Carbine is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: South Mississippi
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[QUOTE=Suggestion: I wouldn't bother buying a .30 Carbine carbide sizing die. I was told that due to the taper of the case, they would need to be lubed even when using a carbide die. I should've listened because the carbide die I bought accomplished exactly nothing, I still had to lube cases. I went back to the old steel die I was already using. [/QUOTE]

I have found it necessary to lube. It’s easier on the sizer anyway. I have a home-brew spray-on lube and just hit a container full of cases and shake ‘em up. Don’t take a lot of care doing it, but enough to make them much easier to size.
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  #27  
Old 08-04-2021, 10:09 AM
Col Studler Col Studler is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 309Carbine View Post
I have found it necessary to lube. It’s easier on the sizer anyway. I have a home-brew spray-on lube and just hit a container full of cases and shake ‘em up. Don’t take a lot of care doing it, but enough to make them much easier to size.
I make lube using water soluble lanolin and rubbing alcohol mixed in a good quality squirter bottle. I've used this lube for a number of years and have been happy with the results. There are any number of YouTube videos, etc for mixing ratios.

I place my cases in a gallon zip top bag and then give them a few squirts. I then shake them around in the bag and give a few more squirts. Usually a couple shake/squirt combos gets the brass nicely coated with lube.

I then let them air dry for a couple minutes so the alcohol evaporates and they're ready to size. After sizing I usually tumble for a couple minutes to clean the lube off. Or just load and then wipe off with a rag when I'm done. Kind of depends on how many rounds I'm loading.

There are some people mixing lanolin with HEET or similar. Maybe that works although I've seen no reason not to use rubbing alcohol. Try to buy the 90%+ stuff rather than the 70% stuff.

One other thing I haven't tried but am curious about is Lee white paste case lube. People dilute this and squirt it on cases but I've never tried that. I wonder what advantages it might have over lanolin.

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  #28  
Old 08-04-2021, 11:01 AM
terry_b terry_b is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Col Studler View Post
I make lube using water soluble lanolin and rubbing alcohol mixed in a good quality squirter bottle. I've used this lube for a number of years and have been happy with the results. There are any number of YouTube videos, etc for mixing ratios.

I place my cases in a gallon zip top bag and then give them a few squirts. I then shake them around in the bag and give a few more squirts. Usually a couple shake/squirt combos gets the brass nicely coated with lube.

I then let them air dry for a couple minutes so the alcohol evaporates and they're ready to size. After sizing I usually tumble for a couple minutes to clean the lube off. Or just load and then wipe off with a rag when I'm done. Kind of depends on how many rounds I'm loading.

There are some people mixing lanolin with HEET or similar. Maybe that works although I've seen no reason not to use rubbing alcohol. Try to buy the 90%+ stuff rather than the 70% stuff.

One other thing I haven't tried but am curious about is Lee white paste case lube. People dilute this and squirt it on cases but I've never tried that. I wonder what advantages it might have over lanolin.

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RCBS spray lube. throw a layer of brass in a zip lock, spray a quick mist, shake. add another handfull on top, mist again, shake. repeat. the lube pretty much creeps around the cases. after sizing I roll them around on an old towel and that seems to get rid of the lube. if i am being picky I run them through the vibrator again to clean up the primer pockets a bit.

I'm still fighting to fix magazines that pop up the last round. I got a couple stock replacement springs that didn't help and am now tweaking the lips. Boy it's just a little bit on old mags between popping the last round out and not letting it feed at all. I wish there was a forming die like for .45 mags to use on carbine mags or maybe some after market no-tilt followers
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  #29  
Old 08-04-2021, 11:13 AM
309Carbine 309Carbine is offline
 
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Sharing information often helps. The balance between rounds flipping out and not feeding can be related to how high the mag sits in the well and the quality of the bolt. If the housing is sitting too low or the catch is worn, stripping issues can occur. You just about have to start with the mag-lips formed to prevent flipping and work back from that.
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  #30  
Old 08-04-2021, 02:13 PM
terry_b terry_b is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 482
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well, I have found out that if i am at my loading bench or better yet in the shop with mig or grinder running she who makes lists leaves me alone. do i made a die for working on magazine lips
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