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  #31  
Old 04-11-2021, 07:08 PM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKPOWDERBREKKEN15 View Post
Good info. On the cmp ordered rounds I was surprised to see 2889 fps on the chrono the case mouths most are at least flattened but other look like something bent into the neck/mouth with a 90 degree point. I wanna say they are hitting the front of the rear sight as ther is so.e brass scuffs there. Just not sure. Something just doesn't seem right even with the light cast loads it flings then 8 to 10 ft behind me when standing. I will try to figure out a way to post picture's. On your case bullets are you using lube or some sort of powder method?
Watch some slow motion vids on you tube, you will find your guess correct.
I think especially on the last round that brass is dinging off the rear sight then bouncing off the op rod...
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  #32  
Old 04-11-2021, 07:19 PM
mac1911 mac1911 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Garandpa View Post
Pardon the interruption, but would anyone here venture to guess (or know first hand), how suitable the Lee 230 gr mold (TL309-230-5R) (34307 90307) would be as a performer in the Garand or 1903A3 platforms? This boat-tailed style projectile doesn't appear to lend itself to gas-checking, and I bought it primarily for the 300AAC. I haven't cast anything out of this mold yet, but looking at it, I'm wondering if I should confine its use strictly to the Blackout cartridge, or experiment with it in the 308 or 30-06 chamberings too? Is it even worthwhile to experiment?
Loading that slug to 300AAC velocities would be good for non gas checked bullets.

I would use something like Trailboss or H4895
H4895 can be reduced per hodgdons Instructions.
You will have to google that information I dont have a link handy
Use hodgdons reduction method for a 220 grain 30-06 load with H4895 and see if the velocity is low enough. I think you will be stuck with powders like trailboss or that shooters world cowboy powder?
Your M1 and 1903a3 barrel twist should be plenty fast enough.
Heres trailboss info, its not going to cycle a M1
Theres really no gain shooting those in a M1 save lead and shoot a subsonic plain base in the 130-150 gn range or a gas checked 150-200 that is loaded to the point of function. H4895 does this well

Last edited by mac1911; 04-11-2021 at 07:29 PM.
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  #33  
Old 04-24-2021, 08:05 PM
nyukx3fan nyukx3fan is offline
 
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https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-over-6-months


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  #34  
Old 04-29-2021, 07:42 AM
knappusmc knappusmc is offline
 
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Two things that folks new to cast bullets in rifles need to know: (1) for best accuracy one needs to get all the copper fowling from the bore, (2) one needs to flair the case mouth with a tool like the Lyman "M" die to prevent shaving the bullet.

Now, my question, Have any of you that shoot a lot of cast in a Garand had a problem with gas cylinder leading, and if so, how do you clean it out?
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  #35  
Old 05-13-2021, 11:53 AM
heckinohio heckinohio is offline
 
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I am not the most knowledgeable reloader, I scanned all of the comments here for mention of bore leading......not that there arent some I missed. I have tried lead bullets without the gas check in .45acp.....not good as they leaded the bore to a horrible degree. 50 rnds removed any visible sign of rifling for the first 4-5 inches of the barrel length. .45s are real slow movers compared to even the slowest rifle round. Does the use of gas checks eliminate leading.??

Is economy the reason for using cast bullets.??

PJH
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  #36  
Old 05-13-2021, 02:12 PM
sirgknight sirgknight is offline
 
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Lee 170gr mold, dropped in water, sized to .311. Gas checked, no filler over 36gr of IMR4895. Been casting for my CMP Garand for years and absolutely love the results and cost savings. There are several molds and powders out there (when available) that are great for the Garand. The choice is personal. I chose my choices with regards to cycling without hiccups, easiness on the rifle and accuracy. It is my personal opinion that this combination puts very little stress, if any, on my rifle and provides an economical and enjoyable way to enjoy the Garand.
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  #37  
Old 05-13-2021, 03:27 PM
BLACKPOWDERBREKKEN15 BLACKPOWDERBREKKEN15 is offline
 
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PJH I use hi-tek gold coating on all of my pistol an rifle bullets 2 coats. I used to stand every bullet up and powder coat with a harbor freight gun. I like the hi tek way better and it's faster. I don't gas check any of my pistol rounds. If your loading hot rounds it might you out but more process to size the gas checks on. Are you using lee lube or some sort of coating. Cost and availability is why I cast for garand they are great for plinking with a 30-06.
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  #38  
Old 05-15-2021, 11:26 AM
Pinecone Pinecone is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heckinohio View Post
I am not the most knowledgeable reloader, I scanned all of the comments here for mention of bore leading......not that there arent some I missed. I have tried lead bullets without the gas check in .45acp.....not good as they leaded the bore to a horrible degree. 50 rnds removed any visible sign of rifling for the first 4-5 inches of the barrel length. .45s are real slow movers compared to even the slowest rifle round. Does the use of gas checks eliminate leading.??

Is economy the reason for using cast bullets.??

PJH
What alloy were they cast from?

I have shot well over 10,000 rounds of cast .45 ACP bullets without any issues like you mention.

I have seen some issues with some pistols with shallow rifling and a very fast powder. It seems the acceleration is more than the rifling can handle to get the bullet rotating, and it strips the bullet.

I saw this in Sig P229 ,40 S&W with cast bullets and WW231. Switching to HS-6 solved the problem.
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  #39  
Old 05-15-2021, 06:46 PM
heckinohio heckinohio is offline
 
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No idea what the bullet composition may have been, same on the powder. I did tell the reloader that I wanted a hard bullet though. I usually shoot a 1928.......mostly 30 rnd sticks, the 50 drum is a bit of a pain to load in the field.

PJH
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